dltalfa

You have to be joking,..right? What street car today can run and handle fast enough to "lap" this field? They currently average 160 to 180 mph on the super tracks. That's a "lape average". That includes letting off the gas in the turns and manuvering traffic. That makes the speed on the straights in excess of 200mph. I have owned and driven some of the best cars moeny can buy,...and I've never owned a street car that could run at 6000 to 7000 rpms for 500 miles straight,...run an avergae of 170+ mph in traffic while managing 45% to 90% turns.

I will be replacing the rack and pinion boots this weekend, along with new tie rod ends. My Haynes repair manual, as well as the "How To Restore Z" book both say it's a good idea to top off the grease in the rack,...but neiter of them tell me how to do this. How do I go about greaseing the rack on a 1972 240Z?

What about both fender extensions, (head light buckets)?

Thanks for all the suggestions. I just came back from the garage. I jacked the car up again, secured it on jack stands, and crawled under the car. With the car in gear, you can move the rear tire to take up the slack. Even by hand you can hear a slight "clunk",..but I can't see anything moving. I had my son get in the car, start it up, and "bump / release" the clutch. You can hear the "clunking" very load,...but I still can not see ANY movement anywhere. Could it be inside the differential itself? Are these diffs known for having internal problems? It does not whine or groan like a bad rearend should. It's very smooth and quite except for the "clunk" at clutch release.

OK,..so I have rear end "clunk". Happens when you release the clutch. Evident at every shift change, of course more prominant in the lower gears and at initial take off. I had read that this was usually the differential mount, so I replaced it. Clunk still there. I then read that it could be a U-Joint. So I crawled under the car and did notice some "very slight" movement in the right rear axle half shaft. So,..I replaced the u-joints on both sides, all four. While I was at it, I decided to proceed and replace the drive/prop shaft u-joints too. You guys may have read my previous thread about all the trouble this caused, as I had to lower the exhaust and remove the sway bar to get the drive/prop shaft in and out. So, while the sway bar was out, I also replaced the sway bar bushings. To recap: I have all new half shaft u-joints. All new drive/prop shaft u-joints. New sway bar bushings. New front differential mount, AND the clunk is no different!!!!!! What am I missing? What else could it be?

How much are you asking for it? What condition is it in?

Thanks Darom. I didn't use any fancy tools,..I performed the job "old school" style. I simply had a can of WD40, a block of wooden 2x4, a flat head screw driver for "poping" out the u-joint clips, a heavy duty socket slightly smaller diamater than the u-joint cup and a BIG hammer for driving the cups out.

No, the zerk is facing out, hub side. However, the clearance is the same on each side, no variance.

The problem is,..this U-Joint that came from Black Dragon has the grease zerk mounted in the middle, (the flat protion), of the joint. Once I installed the hub section that bolts to the differential, it will no longer flex becasue the grease zerk is binding in between the the drive shaft end and the hub end of the assembly. I "may" be able to remove the zerk but I'm certain I can not get in there to screw in a cap with the joint together. I am concerned that if I drive it out and dissasemble the joint that I may damage it,..at least the srping clips.

No, my old set didn't have plug nor a zerk. I have already installed this new u-joint. If I remove it to insert a plug from the parts store,...will I need a new joint? Can the new one i just installed be re-used without damaging it?

Ok,...my 240Z had a clunk in the rear end. Crawling under her, I decide it is a bad rear drive shaft U-joint. I have replaced MANY u-joints on other model cars over the years,..so I thought this would be a piece of cake. I even decided to proceed and replace ALL the joints, (all 4 joints on both the half shafts and both drive/prop shaft joints). I orderd all 6 u-joints from Black Dragon. Assuming the half shafts would be the most difficult, I decided to do them first. I knocked those out yesterday evening. They went much easier than I had even expected. Being quite proud of my work, I started in on the drive shaft u-joints today. OMG!!! 1st,..I had to contort my hands and body in believeable ways just to get to the u-joint bolts. The combination of the sway bar and the exhaust being in the way had the bolts in a very tight place. I ended up having to drop the sway bar to allow access. Then, once I removed all the bolts,..the shaft would not slide past the exhaust. The shop manual says to "loosen" the exhaust hanger and push the exhaust to the side. I loosened the strap, only to have it break. (Oh well,..just one more part I need to order). However, the drive shaft still had to be pryed past the exhaust. It was a total bear. I proceed to remove the rear joint. The new Black Dragon joint, (made in Taiwain), went in fairly easily. It came with a grease zerk that was bent and an almost 90% angle. It did not come with a replacement cap, so I assumed the zerk was intended to stay in the joint. I proceed and install the second half of the assebly, the part that bolts to the differential,..only to find that the joint assembly now "binds" on the grease zerk!!! CRAP!!! Was the grease zerk not supposed to stay in the joint? If not,..why didn't it come with a plug? What am I missing here? I've now got almost 4 hours in replacing one drive shaft u-joit. Any suggestions??

The car had sat for almost a week since last starting. Gas shouldn't evapoarte inside the bowl in that short of a time. There is no sign of a gas leak and no gas smell inside the garage. I do have the carbs with the drain plugs,..but I walk past the car at elast 3 or 4 times everyday going i and ut of teh agrage. I would think that if the drain plug were leaking that bad,..surely I would have smelled something. I'm inclined to think it is a syphoning effect as you mentioned.

OK,...here's an update. I have checked most everything on the car, so today I decided to pull the top off the float resevior prior to starting. The float bowl was dry as a bone!!! I placed the open fuel line inside a cola bottle and turn the ignition over. It took almost 20 seconds of turning before I had fuel squirting into the bottle. Where did the gas in the bowls go? There are no signs of leakage under the car.

Please read my original post, I never said "a couple of minutes". I said it takes several seconds, maybe close to a minute. I have owned, driven and restored antique cars since 1978. I'm very familiar with older "non FI" cars. This one takes much longer than normal. I currently have a 1958 MGA with dual SU carbs. It starts within 5 seconds after a long time sitting. I just went down to the garage to time my start. It's been sitting for 5days since last start. It took 32 seconds of cranking before it started.

Yes,..the very second it starts,..you can turn it off and it will start right up. Naturally,..it needs the choke for a couple of minute but once it starts, it starts the rest of the day within 2 seconds of turning the key.

Thanks for all the input guys. However, I'm sure it's not the timing or the spark / fire. If so, it would have starting problems other than just after sitting.

I had read somewhere that the early Z's car's had two fuel pumps,...one mechanical in the engine bay and a second electrical one located near the fuel tank in the rear. My car does not seem to have the electrical pump in the rear. Could this be the problem?

Here's my problem: My stock 1972 240z runs great. It has plenty of power, idles very smooth, takes the gas well and overall performs great. However, if it sits for a couple of days, it is very hard to start. The choke works fine, it has a recent tune-up and everything seems to be working well. But after a couple of days sitting, it has to crank and crank for a long time before it will start, (several seconds, maybe a minute). It seems almost like it's not getting gas. Once it starts, it runs perfectly. As soon as it runs long enugh to let the chock off,...you can turn it off and it fires up on first turn for the rest of the day. Any ideas?

Thanks guys!! Looks like I will be placing a purchase from Les at Classic Datsun Motor Sports.

Thanks Oiluj, but I've found the door panel "skins" on a couple of sites now. I think I'm just going to go that route. Thanks again though, DT

The boards themselves are "OK". The vynal is just starting to come lose and have a few nicks.

I was looking for new,...but would consider a used set in good condition. I wanted BLACK,..but again, would consider any color, (I can always dye them).

Ok,...I need to replace the door panels in my 240Z. I have looked at all the major venodrs and no one seems to offer them. I have seen sets on eBay priced at $400.00 +. Kind of out of my budget right now. Where can I find a set of door panels without having to take out a second mortage?

Ok,...I am gathering parts for my "new" 240. However, I can't seem to find a place that supplies the door panels. I have seen them on eBay for over $400.00 a pair. Where can I locate door panels for my Z without having to take out a second mortgage?

Simple old school "shade tree" mechanic opinion; Was it smoking or burning oil prior to the cracked head? 1)- If not, then it will not be a problem when you put it back together. The new rings will actually seal better than the old one did, so your position will not be any worse. 2)- If you had some smoke or oil consumption previously, then this area may have been the problem and you will may have some continued smoking or oil consumption after the rebuild due to this area. Naturally, you are always "better" to have the engine vated bored and cleaned up. However, that will mean a FULL tear down and a little more cost for the machine work.