tamo3

I'm thinking about something to my N42 head. How about "Cylinder Head Unlimited"? It's quite low price service. The review @ Yelp is pretty good. http://www.yelp.com/biz/cylinder-heads-unlimited-santa-clara http://www.davescylinderheads.com/131937.html

Hi, I have '72 240z with automatic engine. Recently, I have valve adjustment done and engine start up so smoother than ever. Following modification is done to my car. - Coil upgrade to MSD Blaster 2 (Register also replace that comes with MSD Blaster2) - New Spark Plug (NGK BPR6ES-11) - New Spark Plug wire (NGK Blue) - New Cap - '82 Maxima(280ZX) 60amp Alternator Car runs good and stable. I have Three 240z distributors. Original Distributor for automatic is dual point distributor. I works fine. I got two single point distributors from 240z. I rebuild one of then the other is original condition. When I swap Dual point distributor to single point distributor, I have no problem starting engine. Then I installed Pertonix Ignitor 1761 and connect Red line to Posititve "+" of MSD Blaster2, Black line to Negative "-" of MSD Blaster2. Engine does not ignite. I made sure installed rotor too. My Pertonix ignitor seems new design and have enough wire length to connect to the coil. Also, it does not comes with plastic feeler gauge (0.003" thick). I don't know whether the distance from the air gap between module and magnetic sleeve is adjustable or not. Try bypass ballast resistor does not work neither. Search results for reference: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread37452.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread29115.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread15809.html Does anyone have clue? Thanks, tamo3

Great work. I'm so inspired your perfection. Thanks, tamo3

It just show up @ Craigslist @ SF Bay Area. http://jdmflares.com/ZG_Flares.html Does anyone try this flare? Carbon flare for $280 is pretty good price. I wonder the quality. Thanks, Tamo3

sorry, I thought it's for S30.

Blue wrote tips for readjust timing. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47335&p=410403&viewfull=1#post410403 I think 11:25 is right angle. Also, I highly recommend to have valve clearance adjustment. I had difficulty to start engine, but after valve clearance adjustment, my engine become so much good condition and easy to start. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/valveadjust/index.html Kammy's step-by-step procedure for Fit and Not-Fit is so useful.

Good question. http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ That's what Datsun Z Garage said...

After swapping with original alternator (Hitachi AL232X 50amp) and this custom plug, everything works. I can shut off engine without problem. Even though ammeter looks working without swapping with 280z ammeter. I haven't check whether this is accurate or not yet. It just 10amp increase, but I can get rid of Voltage regulator and also less problem with internal IC voltage regulator build in the alternator. I'm happy with this result. FYI: In order to swap alternator, I need to use Maxima top alternator bracket since original bracket is bended to fit to the smaller size of alternator. If someone will perform this swap, make sure to get bracket with alternator together at junkyard. Also, diode at Radio shack only comes with 2 now. Anyway, you need just one for this work. 1N5402 | Catalog #: 276-1143 http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062578

I'm about to upgrade alternator. I study 12si, CS144, Nissan Quest alternator swap, but I chooses easiest way to just swap with '82 280zx alternator. When I went to junkyard, I found '82 Maxima 2.4l and '82 280zx. Both have 60Amp alternator. Since Maxima's alternator cleaner, I pick that one. I learn basic from here. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm Got diode from Radioshock http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062578 I could not find how to wire 240z to get ride of voltage regulator. Based on the information, I think I got right wiring diagram. Do you know this is the right connection? thanks, tamo3

I think [MSD 6AL]----white ---- ----- Red ----[MSD 8910]---- white --- ---- Black/White ----[TACH] ---- Green/White ----[ignition]

Thanks for the write up. I was about to install chainsaw pump, but I order same thing at amazon too.

Thanks Blue for the advice. Soaking with vinegar for 2 days and use powered washer can clean up clogging I wonder people will unplug this 17mm allen wrench plug.... I never see any tool available at store. I also wash N42 shortblock over the nice sunny weekend too

Thanks for the good article. I googled as "coolant", "clog", but couldn't find any useful information. I will try with vinegar and lemon soda:-)

I see. I will try that method at first. Do you know any chemical help to soften the clogg of coolant? Thanks, tamo3

Ouch!　Thanks Blue!

I got N42 head from local Pick-N-Pull and rebuilding this head by myself for 1st time. While washing N42 head, I noticed that the cooling port of #4 seems like clogged. The two hole at the bottom of #4 is just connecting each other and water is not go through anywhere. Is this right?? or is it clogged? Thanks for your help in advance. tamo3

I just found nice video at Youtube. http://youtu.be/tVCYIxkexFY Enjoy, tamo3

Is that dual Weber 32/36DGV? If so, I think weber is the your best choice for performance. SU is smoother ride and economically good choice.

Nice driving! I'm so excited to watch passing newer model of cars!

Congrats!

Thanks Steve!

Hi Steve, Thanks for your advice. Finally, I got time to try again for trouble shooting. I found out one big mistake. I rebuild distributor and I did not aware of the timing. After turn distributor position, engine get much stable and have enough power in low RPM now!

Thanks Madkaw, Bruce. I replace to new fuel filter, new battery, new fuel tube, check vacuum leak, but still does not help. After testing, changing fuel jet adjustment, I finally figure out that front carb has too rich fuel comes in. It gets spits out fuel before engine stole everytime. I tight up fuel jet adjustment nut and finally, engine runs continuously! When I use clear tube to check float level for both front and rear carb, both are almost exactly on 23mm line, but it seems like front carb gets higher fuel pressure than rear and gets more fuel comes in. Use Synchronizer to adjust air flow level for both same level now. I can get great power after 3,000RPM. However, around 1,500 ~ 2,500 RPM, I loose power extremely. It almost stole engine while I'm driving low gear. Does it something to do with SU carb setting? Thanks, tamo3

Steve, Thanks for the advice. Gunk was no outside of carb, not inside. Fuel is comming from the tank since I check with clear tube for float level, I could've seen the fuel is coming when mechanical fuel pump clank. I replace to new gasket, insulator too. Where should I check vacuum leak? Thanks, tamo3

Hi, After watching Just SU DVD so many, I decided to rebuild my '72 3 screws SU carb. It took me 3 hours to clean up 1st carb to remove 40 years gank, but 2nd one took me just 1 hours. Following DatsunZgarage instruction and use clear tube to adjust float level for both SU carb. http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/index.htm http://forums.ctzcc.com/viewtopic.php?t=4181&sid=b15c6070a9563fa4173bb07bbd52d213 It took me so many times to adjust float setting matching to 23mm line for both carb. Them, put back everything, spray Engine Start Spray, it start a bit and stole. Adjusting choke level, nothing is improving. No matter what I did, when I spray, it runs a bit and stole. Before, rebuild carb, engine could've run above 3000RPM. I got new spark plug, new spark plug wire, new MSD blaster coil install. Can some one give me an advice? Thanks, tamo3