killerzombie

Hey guys im doing the RB swap and dont need the motor any more. it comes with all the bolt-ons too! has the round top SU's and smog equipment eliminated (still have it if you want it). iv dropped about $800 into this motor before i decided im hungry for more power just asking $1000 for both or $600 for the engine and $400 for the trans. it has 40k miles since the last rebuild. and 150k total.

The carbs were all fine. However i did notice my spark plugs where all oil soaked... looks like rebuild time

The peddal had full movement durring all of this. im going to pull arpart the carbs and check the linkage for hanging up tonight. ill let you guys know. and mark im a sucker for the shaved blinkers. nice work!

oops.. its a 260z with the round tops. and the linkage is in working order with all springs attached.

the car will drive normal for the first 3 min, then... I was starting from a stop and the car stalls (not me) So i start the car and floor it this time as the engine sputters me into second. Then as im switching gears the engine takes off and redlines (not on the gas anymore and clutch in) and continues to redline for 5 seconds until shutting off the engine. i pulled over checked my linkage and did a cursory look at the vacuum lines: everything checked out fine so i started it and drove home without anymore problems. this same thing has happened 2 days in a row in the same intersection driving home from work. Any ideas?

Yes the throwout bearing (im still learning the lingo). And it does make more noise if im on the clutch and rev the engine up. thanks for the help!

same problem on my car, im thinking its the slave bearing and im planning on digging in on it next weekend. let me know if you find anything first. ill keep you updated!

Just the general automotive grease for the stearing rack? is it possable to over grease?

Hey so as you can see the black smog/balance tube has been hacked and chopped (its a junk yard build). My plan is to take off the rail completely and cap off the intake runners leaving only the booster vacuum hose on the rear intake runner. Then attach the crank case hose to the intake filter housing and plug all the exhaust manifold holes. Would this work or do i need to weld a tube connecting the two runners?

Thanks everyone .....i have it working now, but what would you consider a reasonable amount of fuel for turning over the engine. i think my mechanical pump is getting to old because its not making much suction when i press down on its arm and it doesnt pump out what in my mind would be reasonable...

my 260z will start and turn over a few times but then dies. if i spray carb cleaner it will run longer but die once all is burnt up. i believe that during start up it only uses the mechanical pump, and the electrical pump kicks in during higher revs. The mechanical fuel pump is filled with gas and the carb floats are wet but not full with gas. i checked the carb and E/pump filters and cleaned them. the electrical fuel pump reads about 6.8 ohms and is getting voltage. The only strange thing i have found is there are 30.3 ohms of resistance from the positive side of the fuel sender to chases ground. Any ideas why i cant get the fuel to run? i dont think its the electric pump but then again i am a nubbie