Everything posted by jccampbe2001
-
Can I hook the clock directly to a car battery to test? Is it positive to the black..
Can I hook the clock directly to a car battery to test? Is it positive to the black, and negative to the blue wires?
-
Can you drive 280z with the dash out? How?
I do not think I am worried about it. However this is a one owner Z that has all orriginal parts. I have had the undercarriage completely recoated. I do live in the south. Is there a huge problem with moisture or is it just a maybe?
-
Can you drive 280z with the dash out? How?
Thanks, that is what I was afraid of. I was hoping it was just a matter of running two to 4 wires from the ignitian to the harness block.
-
Can you drive 280z with the dash out? How?
I have the dash out to do some work on it and benand I need to take the car over to a mechanic friend of mine to finish up a speedometer cable problem that I paid him for and he did not do it correct. So, is there a way to drive the Z with the dash out? Also, I need to put some sort of heat barrier inside the car. What is a inexpensive way to do that? What is the best stuff to do that? I know there is DynaPad.
-
Bleeding front brakes produces just a little brake fluid.
-
Bleeding front brakes produces just a little brake fluid.
Aha.. the Brake Line pressure differential warning lite switch. Do those get clogged up?
-
Bleeding front brakes produces just a little brake fluid.
Ok, that makes sense. I was thinking it might be something like that. I will tighten the back brakes up with the star wheel. Also, I guess these cars basically have 2 proportioning valves.. one that is close to the master cylinder and one that is on the firewall?
-
Bleeding front brakes produces just a little brake fluid.
Also, I have adjusted the brake pedal back to 8". It originally was at 7'
-
Bleeding front brakes produces just a little brake fluid.
I have read and read and read the posts here trying to figure out what to do next to try to get the brakes working correctly. Original problem: Front brakes were locking up after they were driven on for a little while, Right more than the left. Note: The 1976 280Z had been sitting outside at a mechanics garage for almost a year. What I have done so far: Cleaned and lubed the front brakes. I was able to get the front right brake brake line unhooked thaty goes through the proportinal valve and fluid seems to make it through there. I have been unsuccessfull getting the brake lines loose on the brake warning light valve. On the back drum brakes the emergency brake lever was pushing on the brakes and hence not allowing the hydrolic brakes to engage very well. I have temporarily unhooked the Emergency brake so that the hydrolics can do the braking. When I bled the brakes, I got good flow to the rear brakes however when I try to bleed the front the flow coming out is very little, even after bleeding them twice. Now I have to pump the brakes one time before they will engage and even then the stoping power is very week. Do the rear brakes have to engage before pressure is set to the front brakes? If so maybe I need to tighten the release wheel on the reer brakes a little? What do you all think? New front brake lines? Could the problem be in the Brake warning light valve (I think that is what it is called)
-
Performance Mods that will not decrease the value of my Z & muffler
The insurance is set to pay out 19K. They apparently made this appraisel from a set of photos of the car. So if it is totaled that it what the payout would be
-
Performance Mods that will not decrease the value of my Z & muffler
Thank you all for the helpful comments. Man you guys are a bit cruel on this site. Well I started working on cars and have taken this up as a hobby about 2 months ago... so I am learning everything about a car and how the engine works and what the parts are named etc etc etc. This would not be a car that we would ever sell, so I guess it does not matter what it would ever sell for, that would be my wifes concern. I just want speed and fun!! Thanks again for the replies
-
Performance Mods that will not decrease the value of my Z & muffler
Here is the reason behind my question. This is my Wife's car and it currently is worth 19K and she will not allow me to do anything to it that may decrease the value of it. When I say it is in good shape, everything on it except maybe a couple of brake lines are all the original parts interior and exterior.
-
Performance Mods that will not decrease the value of my Z & muffler
I have a 1976 280z in very good condition. I want to maintain its value. Here is the question. What Performance Modifications can I do if any and still maintain the value of the Z? 2nd Found that the line to the muffler had rusted through. Any suggestions on how to proceed? Keep in mind I want to maintain or increase the value of the car and not diminish it in any way.