kats

Thank you Gavin! I appreciate your help! Kats

Hi Gavin, I posted this some time ago, a Z432 has plastic tabs for its lids. This car has April 1970 seat belt tag. On the other hand, the green BAT 310000 USD 240Z has metal crips was manufactured date 05/70. So we can say there is a border line between them. BTW, I also posted this, 4 steps evolution of inspection lids. Kats

Hi Ian, you made it! You will be so satisfied with the color when you paint your block. Kats

Thank you Captain!! You show how we can go through the challenges. I remember you did some amazing work when I was wondering about the Works wheel nuts. Kats

I like it!! Now I don’t have to worry about if I lost all my Zs. I have this red 180 SX.. Kats

Great!! Using a tap and a screw, and apply some heat. Those methods would never come up in my mind. Thank you Captain! I have learned new things today, it will be helpful for my future restoration work. Kats

Thanks inline6, eBay selling the cap! But it is expensive for me. Japanese currency is now way low compared dollars, I can’t enjoy shopping from USA anymore. So I have got a set of the cap at a local car workshop. They were a half of money which I would pay for the one on eBay. Kats

Hi Captain! I was thinking about you! If I were you, I was able to take it off easily and put a perfect piece for the vacuum. You have skills and professional tools! Do you mean the remaining piece can be pulled out by using some tools like an ultra micro sliding hammer (I don’t even know such a tool exists)? or drilled (scraped) out by a drill bit? About the cylinder, yes my current cylinder is made by NABCO but I want TOKIKO lock type cap which looks period correct for my June 1972 car. Kats

Finally I put a parts number decal on the metal radiator shroud. The decal is my laptop reproduction. Kats

I snapped off the tiny tiny vacuum pipe on the front carburetor when I was trying to take the carburetor off from the manifold. Like this, I sometimes add more task which I never wished. I decided not to try talking off the carburetors because I didn’t want to brake them any further nor pay for a shop to do it instead of me. That is why you see the linkage parts between the two carbs are not plated but painted. I tried to paint them by using four colors of spray can for ‘fake gold zinc’ and it turned out so so for me. The throttle long arm across from the right side of the firewall to the pivot on the left side, and the throttle short arm on the balance tube are also my paint. Fuel pipe along the valve cover too. And a tall tower bracket for the spark plug wires is also painted. Don’t look them closely!! I had to drill a small hole on the remaining pipe on the carburetor to insert a small piece to hold the one which was snapped off. I finally managed to put it back together, and seemed the vacuum advance working properly. One of the thing which I had been wishing for was unique wire clamps for the brake and clutch master cylinders. I bought them for cheap and put them into the place where they need to be. Also please note the foot ball shape cap for the clutch master cylinder. The cap for the brake master cylinder maybe incorrect, I will change it to periodic correct one. Kats

I have finished my ZG engine bay cosmetic refresh project. I am quite happy with the results, even though it looked very un professional outcome. Please enjoy pictures! Kats

Hi Gavin, Yes that is another correct way to have right Nissan blue I think. I did it like you before! Kats

Hi, Yours is for the later ‘U shaped’ lower cross members which can be seen on 280Z and Fairlady Z(S31 model). Just FYI, I recently refurbished my pan for my Z which is the earliest style, no-hole version (late 1969 to late 1972 in Japan). Kats

Sorry for my poor English skill, I was trying to say the same like you. The only thing I would like to tell you is there is no difference between Japanese S30 and all the other export S30 in terms of the opening of the tunnel. I don’t know what kind of 5 speed Patcon is going to install, so all I can say for now is if it is a FS5C71A then he doesn’t need to cut the tunnel. FS5C71B or FS5W71B, he needs to cut the tunnel like you said. Kats

Hi Patcon, Are you going to put the automatic transmission back to the car? If so, you just don’t need the metal ring. Just bolt the base plate for the automatic shifter on to the opening of the tunnel. The opening shape and size, and location is just the same as the opening for F4W71A/FS5C71A. This is also true for the late 1971 model and later. Even when Z got the new center console for F4W71B/FS5C71B the opening for the automatic transmission remains the same as F4W71A/FS5C71A. I think Nissan was cleaver to utilize and minimize the cost and labor at the production line. Or if you are going to put an F4W71B or an FS5C71B, you need the ring to bolt on the tunnel. Great work, a lot of progress! Kats

Hi Bart, I thought about it before. But I don’t know how to ship the spray can to overseas! Kats

Thanks Patcon! I am enjoying to see your restoration of your 240Z, keep good work! Kats PS Nissan blue is still available from local dealership or some internet vendors. You can order with the parts number 10128-90026. Or in Japan only?

Painting the block, masking is always fun to do. I couldn’t stop my self to paint the bolt fixing the engine mount bracket. If I had extra genuine marked ‘7’ bolts I would have re-plated it. The outcome is so so, I sprayed fluorescence green over metallic yellow. Finally I put just a little bit of metallic purple. Please see the engine mount bracket, it has over spray of blue, is is original? And the date shown on the center muffler and the rear muffler ‘72 07’ they make the car so proud as a survivor. In Japan so many people wanted to replace it with a dual exhaust pipes. I think it looks odd to see some very bright parts in the non restored engine bay. Kats

Hi, I have been doing some work for my 240ZG. I felt I should take care for my ZG because it looked dirty and old. I don’t have money to do full restoration for it so I decided to do easy job by myself like painting and cleaning. Also I have my parts re-plated by a professional shop. Did you know here in Japan most of plating shops don’t do gold zinc plate for the local environmental regulations. I found one very far from my town, they do great but very very expensive compare to a several years ago. I couldn’t separate each of the exhaust components because they are all rusted and melted each other. So it seemed to me the only choice was taking off the exhaust manifold with all the components together. I tried to take the front pipe from the manifold apart, I snapped off the stud bolts. The rusted bolts annoyed me a lot. Please see the original unique nut for fixing the exhaust front pipe. I want to use it again. I saw orange paint brushedat the left front of the block, is it a factory marking? I see ‘ 2-6 ‘ on the bonnet catch and the door lock mechanism as my ZG seemed left the factory on June or July 1972. As well as matching date shown on the heater box decal, the seat belt tag and the coding on the glass. Kats

I’m feeling the same Alan. I have been curious about the same thing happened to other parts like the choke and throttle cables, export emblems ‘chrome solid back side Z’ etc. I can’t remember exactly but even some parts started at E4101 or 4601 from the beginning of the production. Apparently those things were well before the test ride in US & Canada from October to December 1969. Body styling had finished in 1968, but development chassis and all the other things would have still been in progress in Japan? Kats

Hi, we will have some new point of view about the seam for the C-pillar joint. Mr.Miyazaki told me about interesting story about the issue of cracking around the C-pillar. It is a new thing for me, I have never heard of it. I will report it soon. Kats

Hi Alan, the wrong side Z432 mount is what we have been waiting for! You posted a picture for a several years ago, a ‘Fairlady 260Z-E’. It has a mirror image Z432 air filter box next to the left side of the head light. I am so excited about seeing this front center rail, this proves Nissan was about to sell Fairlady 260Z-E not just making a prototype but preparing for full production for the coming new model for 1974. And also I have seen a Z432 wrong side air box on Yahoo Japan auction some years ago. I just didn’t get it what it is. But yes it existed! Kats

Hi Gavin, I probably know the owner. We had a good conversation at ZCON last year. He seems to have some good friends in Japan. I am interested in seeing the car gets back on the road. Kats

If our decoding method works, the engine block was casted on 9th of January 1975. “5109I” 5=1975, 1=January, 09=9th, I=alphabet /ai/. Does it make sense to the number L28-005521? Kats

It could be, I am also interested in it. Seeing 1969 Z432, for example PS30-00055 has pressed down dents. And the car has December 1969 seat belt tag, ordinary firewall thick pad. So I assume some November or December 1969 export models have pressed down dents without tar mat. Higher chassis number for the year 1969 like HLS30-00476 doesn’t have tar mat on the rear deck. Application of the tar mat on the rear deck could be later than that of pressed down dents. Kats