Denny

Thanks, Steve!

Hi Steve, Thanks for getting back to me and telling me how to find more info! I see that part "24012E4602" is an engine harness for a std transmission 240Z. Since mine is an automatic, it looks like it won't work. It looks like I might need these 2 parts: 24012-E4703 ASSY-HARNESS ENGINE (superceded by 24012-E8301 ASSY-HARNESS ENGINE) 24013-E8801 ASSY-HARNESS INSTRUM (superceded by 24013-E8303 ASSY-HARNESS INSTRUM) I am not totally sure my wires can't be repaired; it's just that electrical smoke completely filled the cabin (coming from the dash) and engine compartment, so my guess is it's pretty much fried. I won't have a chance to take the dash out for a while, so I'm just lining up things now. Any other suggestions?

Hi Steve, I might need it for my 240Z (manufacture date: 10/71). My car's wiring just burned up yesterday in the engine compartment and dash. Do you know if yours will fit my car? Thanks!

I just got in from the garage. After cleaning the old water tube and examining it closer, it doesn't look that bad except for the ends where the hoses were attached. It is rusted on the ends, but I think if I put the hoses on a little farther, it may be OK. Please tell me more about your chrome parts! You can PM me if you like. Thanks! Denny

I also just received a set of those puppies from Jim for my 240z, and I am very happy with the set I received! Kudos to you, Jim, it looks like you've helped a lot of people with their cars! I haven't put the rubber on yet because I am in the process of replacing a head gasket and putting on an E-31 head. While I have most of the stuff out, I am painting the engine bay. I got a tip from the guy who I bought the head from (http://datsunpartsllc.com/) to get some Spatter paint (think of some auto trunks you may have seen) from AutoZone. First clean off the grease/grime and sand or scuff with a wire brush, then apply a primer. Follow that with the Spatter paint. I've got it half way painted, and I am delighted to say that it looks much better than I thought it would. It looks very nice! Now another question (to Jim or anyone else) - Does anyone know where I can find a decent rear water tube? Jim said he had a couple, but they are both spoken for. I really would like to find one soon because I am going to be putting things back together soon. Thanks!

I am rebuilding the top end of a 72 240Z engine. I have removed all the equipment off the block and am cleaning it for painting. (I noticed after cleaning the grease off that the block is a light blue color - I never knew that!) I have an E31 head rebuilt and ready to put on. The last major work I had done on the car was when the Wizard of Z's (Riverside, CA) was still in business before he retired. The Wizard did a marvelous job on the engine, it really purred! Since I didn't need to smog the car any longer because of its age, the Wizard asked if I wanted the smog tube hooked back up to the intake manifold. He said it would give me more power if I didn't, so I said no, give me the power. More than 10 years later, the engine has a blown head gasket, which is the reason I am working on it now. Since the Wizard is no longer there and to save money, I am doing it myself. The question I have is, is there a reason to put the smog pump back on when I get ready to put it back together? If not, should I just plug the hole from the hose from the smog pump to the air intake? (That's what the Wizard did on the intake manifold.) Thanks!

I am rebuilding the top end of a 72 240Z engine. I have an E31 head and have removed all the equipment on the block and am cleaning it for painting. (I noticed after cleaning the grease off that it is a light blue color - I never knew that!) The last major work I had done on the car was when the Wizard of Z's (Riverside, CA) was still in business before he retired. The Wizard did a marvelous job on the engine, it really purred! Since I didn't need to smog the car any longer because of its age, the Wizard asked if I wanted the smog tube hooked back up to the intake manifold. He said it would give me more power so I said no, don't hook it back up. More than 10 years later, the engine has a blown head gasket, which is the reason I am working on it now. Since the Wizard is no longer there and to save money, I am doing it myself. The question I have is, is there a reason to put the smog pump back on when I get ready to put it back together? Thanks!

I have a couple of heads lined up: An E88 and an E31. Both are in good condition. The guy says an E31 would provide higher compression, and thus, would yield more power. What do you guys think?

Got the last broken bolt out just now. The two that were sticking out a ways were fairly easy to get out with a pipe wrench. I had to work with the one that was broken off in the threads. I drilled it and tried an easy out on it. At first it didn't come out, but then I used a torch to heat it up and let it cool off, then it came out. There was a lot of carbon build up, but no rust on the bolts. Thanks for your help and advice!

Well, I finally got the head off. We used a puller on the bolt that was still sticking out about a 1/4 inch. That alone didn't work until we put a spacer between the head and the block and then retightened the head bolts on the opposite side to force the stuck side up. After doing this several times, it finally came loose enough to pull the head off. It was the toughest head I've ever pulled, granted, I haven't pulled that many of them! Thanks for all your help! Now the machine shop guy says the water holes are too corroded. He suggests getting another head. I was wondering about the possibility of putting a 280ZX turbo head on it - has anyone out there done this (on a 240Z)? What else would need to be changed in order to do the turbo? Or would you recommend just staying with a stock head?

It has a blown head gasket, that's why the head needs to come off. Around the edge of the bolt still sticking up about 1/4 inch, I can see something black. This is probably carbon, I am guessing from some of the posts I've seen here. Thanks, everyone! I've put lots of Blaster PB around the broken head bolts to try dissolving the carbon, but I don't know if that's doing any good. If anyone has more ideas about how to dissolve the carbon, I'd appreciate hearing these. I broke the head loose with a rubber mallet. I can separate the front part of the head from the block now. The back part, where the broken head bolts are, is still stuck. Yesterday, I built a scaffold above that part of the head and am using a come-along like a hoist to try to lift it. Unfortunately, that is not working. My father-in-law came up with an idea we are going to try today - that is, to use a puller, grappling around parts of the head and pressing down on the bolt that is still sticking up above the head. I think this may work - I've got my fingers crossed!

Thanks for the posts, guys. I'm just about to go back out to work on it again. There are 3 head bolts broken off, but one of them is broken off in the threads, so I'm sure that one is not one of the ones holding it down. The other 2 that broke off are in the 2 back holes (#6 cylinder, closest to the driver). One of those broke off about 3" down, so the end of it is inside the head. The other one is one of the cam shaft bolts, and it broke off at the very top. After taking the cam shaft spacer out, there is still about 1/4" sticking out above the head, and I can see some black stuff (carbon?) around the edge of the bolt. I just wanted to make sure there are no more bolts other than the 14 head bolts and the 2 timing cover bolts - that's all of them, right?

Thanks for the comments, guys! I think I'll try using a putty knife tomorrow. Funny, that's what my father-in-law suggested, too!

Yah, the valve train is removed. 3 of the head bolts are snapped off (they broke while removing them), but I that should not keep it from coming off - what do you think?

On a 240Z, I have removed all 14 head bolts, the 2 timing cover bolts, and the intake and exhaust manifolds, the fuel pump and the air conditioning bracket. Everything I can see bolted on to the head has been removed. The problem is the head won't come off of the block. I have tried to pry it off, but it still seems like it is bolted on. Can anyone help? Thanks!