Healeyalt

Hi Chas. I googled each of those part numbers and they all see to be available, even the Pilot Bearing, from a couple of different distributors at reasonal prices. For example; Axle Differential Bearing | Genuine Nissan | 38440-N3111 Thanks for listing them for me Gary

I wasn't going to try to rebuild it myself. I found a Trany/diff specialist who say he can do it. However, I was going to order all the parts myself (eg bearings, seals, gaskets) hoping to get good quality at a reasonable price and then just pay him for all the labor. Gary

John, might the howling (whinning) noises most likily becoming from the contact pattern for the ring/pinion gears being off or ? Gary

Thank you Blue. Like the R180, it does look like there are 3 bearings associated with the pinion in the R200 but for whatever reason Black Dragon doesn't show the front ball joint bearing. And that is probably the one thats making the howling (whinning) noise. Gary

I see in the Black Dragon catalog for the R200 they list the side carrier bearings (2), the front pinion bearing, and the rear pinion bearing. However, they don't list a pilot bearing like they do for the R180. Doesn't the R200 have a pilot bearing? I'd really appreciate it If someone who has done a rebuild on the R200 could verify and list for me exactly which bearings are needed. Also, if I knew exaclty which to order it looks like I could save quite a bit of money through Rock Auto for example instead of buying a rebuild kit. Gary

Just a short follow-up; last weekend I was able to change my motor mounts as outlined by Chas with no problems. By taking the mounts off the engine, I didn't even have to lift the enigne very high and didn't have to diconnect the A/c, etc. Actually, the only thing I disconnected was the hose to my AFM. Gary

I changed to the "thicker" conventional Valvoline gear lube thinking thicker might quiet it down, but it seemed quieter with the synthetic Amsoil. Since its easy to change the fluid, this weekend I'll probably try some synthetic Royal Purple or Red Line to see if thst makes a difference. Although these synthetics aren't cheap, at this point, its a lot cheaper and easier than pulling the diff and cover to check the gear contact pattern, etc. Or I could do like my dad and the other old timers used to do to their Models As and add some saw dust to quiet it down! (not really an option). Gary

I think you are correct, the clunck might be worse. There is a very reputable business near me that specializes in rear diffs, and I've had them do work for me before, but I'm sure they won't be cheap this time either and if a little whinning is usual, I'll probably put up with it for awhile. Also, there are no leaks and the magnet on the drain plug looked clean (no metal).

After spending a couple of years refeshing a 76 2+2 I've finally got it on the road. One thing I've noticed is that the rear differential seems to whine considerably. However, there doesn't seem to be any clunking or other issues with it. I originally had Amsoil synthetic GL5 gear lube, 75w-140 but switched to conventional valvoline gl5 85W-140 thinking it may be a little quieter, but it isn't. Are the rear differentials on these cars normally a little whinny or might my tooth pattern be off or something. The car has 83,000 original miles on it and everything else seems to be going OK so far. Thanks Gary

I tried doing exactly what rossiz did and was able to get my fingers on the buzzer, but I couldn't find and grasp the darn connector for it whereever they have that tucked into. I even moved the hood latch handle out of the way and some other hardware. As mentioned above, I hate to take out the tach to get the speedo out as the FSM describes. I'll try going up-side-down-backwards one more time this weekend. And as rossiz noted, my seat belt warning light does also work. Gary

Its behind the speedo. I tried getting to it to pull the electrical plug to disable it but couldn't get to it. The FSM saying I need to remove the speedo to get to it but I can't even find the lower screw for removing the speedo (I kind of hate the thought of pulling the speedo any way incase I have trouble getting it seated back in again). I don't see a separate fuse for the buzzer which I could pull. Does anyone else have a suggestion for disabling it? This is on my 76. I don't mind it so much for example when I open the door with the key still in it, but mine also alarms while I'm cranking the engine over to start it, and I'd rather beable to better hear the engine while cranking instead of that annoying buzzer. Thanks Gary

Thanks Chas for writing that all out. So it sounds like by taking the bracket off the engine you didn't have to lift the engine very high. You listed lots of helpful hints, like doing one side at a time so the engine doesn't move on me. I'll have to look things over better when I get home tonight. Gary

I want to change the motor mount insulators on my 76. I don't have a hoist. Can I just put a block of wood and a jack under the oil pan to raise the engine? How high do I need to raise the engine and what do I need to disconnect (eg, exhaust pipe, Trany Inuslator Mount, A/C connections, radiator hoses, etc) ? The service manual doesn't seem very explicit on changing motor mount insulators. Gary

Hi Dave, thanks for explaiing that. I know I've added some "track width", but I think the car does look nice that way, especially from behind. Since it looks like replacing the rear bearings is somewhat involved, I guess I'll have to think some more about this. I'm not at home right now so I can't check on the wheel offset, but if it is a 0 offset, obviously I've added +25mm (1 inch). The sidewall of the tires almost comes out flush to the edge of the fender lip. Gary

Hi Chuck, that's good to know. Even though these would be around 1/2" wider (thicker), compared to the stressors you guys put on your race cars with no bearing problems, I'm thinking mine is pampered and should hold up fine. Gary