Healeyalt

Hi Chas. I googled each of those part numbers and they all see to be available, even the Pilot Bearing, from a couple of different distributors at reasonal prices. For example; Axle Differential Bearing | Genuine Nissan | 38440-N3111 Thanks for listing them for me Gary

I wasn't going to try to rebuild it myself. I found a Trany/diff specialist who say he can do it. However, I was going to order all the parts myself (eg bearings, seals, gaskets) hoping to get good quality at a reasonable price and then just pay him for all the labor. Gary

John, might the howling (whinning) noises most likily becoming from the contact pattern for the ring/pinion gears being off or ? Gary

Thank you Blue. Like the R180, it does look like there are 3 bearings associated with the pinion in the R200 but for whatever reason Black Dragon doesn't show the front ball joint bearing. And that is probably the one thats making the howling (whinning) noise. Gary

I see in the Black Dragon catalog for the R200 they list the side carrier bearings (2), the front pinion bearing, and the rear pinion bearing. However, they don't list a pilot bearing like they do for the R180. Doesn't the R200 have a pilot bearing? I'd really appreciate it If someone who has done a rebuild on the R200 could verify and list for me exactly which bearings are needed. Also, if I knew exaclty which to order it looks like I could save quite a bit of money through Rock Auto for example instead of buying a rebuild kit. Gary

Just a short follow-up; last weekend I was able to change my motor mounts as outlined by Chas with no problems. By taking the mounts off the engine, I didn't even have to lift the enigne very high and didn't have to diconnect the A/c, etc. Actually, the only thing I disconnected was the hose to my AFM. Gary

I changed to the "thicker" conventional Valvoline gear lube thinking thicker might quiet it down, but it seemed quieter with the synthetic Amsoil. Since its easy to change the fluid, this weekend I'll probably try some synthetic Royal Purple or Red Line to see if thst makes a difference. Although these synthetics aren't cheap, at this point, its a lot cheaper and easier than pulling the diff and cover to check the gear contact pattern, etc. Or I could do like my dad and the other old timers used to do to their Models As and add some saw dust to quiet it down! (not really an option). Gary

I think you are correct, the clunck might be worse. There is a very reputable business near me that specializes in rear diffs, and I've had them do work for me before, but I'm sure they won't be cheap this time either and if a little whinning is usual, I'll probably put up with it for awhile. Also, there are no leaks and the magnet on the drain plug looked clean (no metal).

After spending a couple of years refeshing a 76 2+2 I've finally got it on the road. One thing I've noticed is that the rear differential seems to whine considerably. However, there doesn't seem to be any clunking or other issues with it. I originally had Amsoil synthetic GL5 gear lube, 75w-140 but switched to conventional valvoline gl5 85W-140 thinking it may be a little quieter, but it isn't. Are the rear differentials on these cars normally a little whinny or might my tooth pattern be off or something. The car has 83,000 original miles on it and everything else seems to be going OK so far. Thanks Gary

I tried doing exactly what rossiz did and was able to get my fingers on the buzzer, but I couldn't find and grasp the darn connector for it whereever they have that tucked into. I even moved the hood latch handle out of the way and some other hardware. As mentioned above, I hate to take out the tach to get the speedo out as the FSM describes. I'll try going up-side-down-backwards one more time this weekend. And as rossiz noted, my seat belt warning light does also work. Gary

Its behind the speedo. I tried getting to it to pull the electrical plug to disable it but couldn't get to it. The FSM saying I need to remove the speedo to get to it but I can't even find the lower screw for removing the speedo (I kind of hate the thought of pulling the speedo any way incase I have trouble getting it seated back in again). I don't see a separate fuse for the buzzer which I could pull. Does anyone else have a suggestion for disabling it? This is on my 76. I don't mind it so much for example when I open the door with the key still in it, but mine also alarms while I'm cranking the engine over to start it, and I'd rather beable to better hear the engine while cranking instead of that annoying buzzer. Thanks Gary

Thanks Chas for writing that all out. So it sounds like by taking the bracket off the engine you didn't have to lift the engine very high. You listed lots of helpful hints, like doing one side at a time so the engine doesn't move on me. I'll have to look things over better when I get home tonight. Gary

I want to change the motor mount insulators on my 76. I don't have a hoist. Can I just put a block of wood and a jack under the oil pan to raise the engine? How high do I need to raise the engine and what do I need to disconnect (eg, exhaust pipe, Trany Inuslator Mount, A/C connections, radiator hoses, etc) ? The service manual doesn't seem very explicit on changing motor mount insulators. Gary

Hi Dave, thanks for explaiing that. I know I've added some "track width", but I think the car does look nice that way, especially from behind. Since it looks like replacing the rear bearings is somewhat involved, I guess I'll have to think some more about this. I'm not at home right now so I can't check on the wheel offset, but if it is a 0 offset, obviously I've added +25mm (1 inch). The sidewall of the tires almost comes out flush to the edge of the fender lip. Gary

Hi Chuck, that's good to know. Even though these would be around 1/2" wider (thicker), compared to the stressors you guys put on your race cars with no bearing problems, I'm thinking mine is pampered and should hold up fine. Gary

I forgot to mention this is on my 76 280z 2+2 with otherwise stock wheels (195r70/14) and that 25mm = about 1 inch.

I bought a pair of these to get the wider stance look in the back and they fit well but I'm wondering if they are going to wear out my rear bearing sooner than usual. TCS Wheel Spacer-25mm BS / 4X114.3 / 12X1.25 / 71.6mm Bore I can see where wheel spacers would be harder on the front bearings with all the turning forces, etc, but I'm not sure about the backs. Has anyone else had experience these, good or bad? I see some really wide tires on some Zs, so some people must use wheels spacers. Thanks. Gary

djwarner mentions, "I believe the white dots were a quality control mark indicating the bolts were properly torqued". Since the white painted dot aligns from the nut to the bolt thread, I'm thinking the shocks have probably never been changed or what would be the chance of the painted dots aligning up perfectly again after putting in new shocks and retorquing. I see Rockauto does have a good price for the KYB shocks. Thanks

Thanks guys. Everything else in the rear suspension seems tight (fine) so I'm hoping it is the shocks, This is a little off-topic, but did you guys go with the KYB shocks which seem to be the most popular? Gary

I think I need to replace my shock absorbers (strutz) on my 76 2+2. I purchased the car about 3 years ago and don't know anything about its history and maintenance. I see the bolts/nuts on the passenger side rear shock tower has a dabb of white paint on them which lines up so it doesn't look like they've ever been removed and these could be the original shock absorbers? Did the factory use paint during assembly or was this most likely done later by a mechanic? Also, when the OEM strutz go bad (eg, no oil left) can they get noisey? For example, when going down the road and I hit bumps, I seem to be getting a rumbling-type of noise from somewhere in the back end. Thanks Gary

Hi Mike, interesting info, and I'm sure that is a superior way to go. I checked out the installation videos for both SunTex and Xpel. Its pretty cool the way professional installers apply this stuff and work it around the contours. There are installers a couple of hundred miles from me so I am going to keep this approach in mind. Thanks for the ideas, Gary

My car was painted last September just before putting it in storage for the winter so I think it is pretty well cured. I had it painted Blue Jean Blue metallic, which I'm very happy with, but the painter used a white primer underneath so any chips in the paint are really going to show badly. Advanced Auto has the 3M Paint Defender film spray for about $24/can so may be I'll get some and test it on some nonconspicuous area. I thought I read where it may only last for a year before having to be pealed off and re-done, but may be because this is such an occassional driver and always garaged it may last longer.

Or tried any other spray-on film protector with good results? My '76 280Z 2+2 was recently freshly painted and I'm trying to figure out the best way to keep it from getting stone chips along the rocker panels and behind the rear wheels. I orderd some MSA custom splash guards, but they are going back. The quality looks fine, but the fit along the body is way too poor in my opinion. And I do prefer the looks of the Z without the mud flaps. So if anyone has any other products they can suggest for keeping the paint protected, that'd be great. (I know this has been discussed before with not much consensus). Thanks. Gary

I did see in my service manual the section on different clips and how critical balance is for these. I wasn't planning on taking them apart and they still do seem tight. I was hoping there was a way to shoot a little grease in them to make sure they aren't drying out. Thanks again for the great info guys.

Great Information, thank you guys