Jason240z

The twin pipe setup is something that works with an IL6, all the performance bmw IL6's have the same setup. I guess its down to port scavenging. should be good for upper midrange?

its interesting they decided to revise it, after so long. Only zstory clear a r200 or larger though.

By better, I meant a closer fit. Its a newer header and center section(new part numbers etc) and rear routing, whatever the changes are it seems to be a gain on the previous version while offering better packaging, to the previous posters question. It doesn't say anything about r200's? As you say at a cost.

Its out. Its also worth pointing out that the dyno chart that fujitsubo produce is the newer system v the older one, so its not just a better fit offering more clearance, its also offers better performance. https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=https://www.fujitsubo.co.jp/prods/detail/000000000000002298/00000000000000005120/00001708&prev=search

The more serious point is that I don’t know of any calipers at all that are cooler than finned drums.

is there a real need to swap the rear brakes? disc conversions just weigh loads. Drums are more than good enough for anything but 10/10th's racing.

All this thread is showing is that tzagi1, neither values the cars or has an appreciation and understanding of what component the unibody is, along with how its identified.

I thought you’d finished? you see Range Rovers for less than £1000 because they’re crap. our mot rules do not mean you have to scrap anything, just because it fails. I’m not sure where you’ve heard otherwise? im not arguing with you about it as you do not seem to understand how these Cars are identified, or what the chassis is on these cars.

1) We don't have an MOT law that means we have to 'junk' anything. 2) if that happens, you take your insurance payment, find another. Or take the payment, fix the car. The cars id is the chassis. NO way of changing that. By design the body/chassis is one, as a monocoque. Its the one part you cant change or replace. The house argument just doesn't make sense as the cars a Monocoque, if it was separate chassis(land) and body(house), you could swap the house. If I had car number 00007, it was total wreck, where only the chassis ID was hanging on but I had the title document. copying/transfering that vin number onto another shell doesn't make that new car 00007.

two vins is just as bad, possibly worse than no VIN. I don't think there's any personal attacks, just some replies are vague to which direction they fall. No one wants to be in the position the OP is in. When it happened to me, it was not a nice feeling at all. If it wasn't pointed out or if everyone suggested it will be 'ok' i'd have ended up wasting lots of time and money, then getting into bother when I try to insure it.

Moving the ID from one shell to another is the same thing. Its not the correct ID for that shell. The shell is ID'd/Vin'd(if they're actual words) at the factory. There's no reason to.

Sorry for the cutdown quote, seemed easier to keep it on topic. I'm not following any lead. I was the one who bought a car that wasn't what it said it was, just like the OP. I haven't said at any point that anyone is guilty of falsifying a vin. When I said 'not this place', I meant it, in the context as at no point should we as a club follow such a path. Which we haven't and shouldn't. Its not being Lazy, its just being very clear. I feel for the OP.

at the front, engine cross member? Rear - Diff mounts?

I know i'm late to the party, however I have been affected by this before. The Car ID is the chassis number. No other part identifies the car. Its the Part number 1, correct at the factory. Why would a car use the number thats screwed to the dash and/or door plate? Why would you want to change the ID? There is ZERO reason to change the ID away from the one on the chassis bulkhead. A few years ago, I was on the receiving end of a car just like this. I purchased a car from a company that at the time was considered the UK experts on these cars, its was jointly imported by them with a prolific UK importer who still brings cars in. The door plate and dash tag were of a low vin 1970 car. I was pleased with my purchase, put a few pics up on a UK forum. I had to then swallow a very bitter pill. The car turned out to be a 1973 body wearing early 1970 id's. A ringer. There's no honest way why you'd do this. Once I cleaned all the filler away from the bulkhead it became apparent that the car was a mid 73 car. I was lucky and managed to get a full refund, it did help raise my general awareness to this sort of thing and makes it a sensitive subject for me. One i'd actively try to steer people away from. Its not good news for a place like this to condone it in any away. People looking the other direction is not the answer. What happens if you have a crash, an assessor spots the mis matched numbers and uses it as a way to claim your insurance void? What happens when you sell? How can there ever be any explanation thats anything but corrupt?

There's been a 3/71 build car that's an early body and none vented quarters. Your statement is a contradiction, there's no clear cut off, not a documented one, not one that in 40odd years people have managed to put a date/build number to. If so it would be easy and factory correct. You can apply early to just about any world market based on the body?

Surely the fact there's no clear cut off or a factory change, just shows it will not work as a 'series' descriptor. I'm far from an expert, from what I've seen, read, it was all a gradual change with little bits changed during the production run. Thats why early/late works as a descriptor. Its seems to be a constant evolution.

what about resin sugar scoops, plastic evap tank in the rear? We should use the term early cars and late cars.

I guess they don’t advertise all their settings? im neural here, just I’ve never seen a proper setup with camber plates? It’d be worth testing the generic setups above that are more or less the same except colour on a shock dyno just to see/show what they are. kmac seem to make some proven bolt in multi adjustable bits if you’re desperate for all that adjustment. Personally, it seems more are keen on chasing headline bhp figures without properly thinking about feel and car dynamics.

As above, va motorsport do a bolt in.

What’s too good?

No they don’t. Not sure when I’ve ever seen a proper setup with them though? I looked at about 6-9options, none had it. Va motorsport do ball joint top mounts to suit though, that gives caster/camber as per their developed race-rally cars.

A lot of the links above are all from the same factory in the Far East. Not saying there’s anything wrong but they all recommend spring rates that no decent suspension specialist would, along with ‘dampers’ to suit.

It varies depending on which option and what options etc.

you've missed the best option of intrax

Please just sell it to someone who appreciates it. Or stick it on a Bring a trailer where it could hit 40k.