Jason240z

Are they webber DGV carbs? The dizzy is worth about $150 on its own. Doesn't sound like much as the accessories are worth more than the block.

ATI do a range of dampers?

I've seen those, they're suppose to go over the standard rails and cover a bit up under the engine bay too.

well after a none starter with some others I've got some floor rails, went for 1.5mm over the standard 1.2, over length too. Best bit was paying £25 for the pair, If I had a few sets made it drops to £18. The top hat bend is a 100% perfect match for the originals. Only issue is matching the factory formed end, now I did create a couple of bends to match but they didn't look like the original ones Option 1: While recovering from smacking my thumb I thought about cutting the end off the original rails and butt welding them onto the new ones, does this sound like a decent idea? I can't see what issues it'll cause(except the slight stepdown in thickness). and have them extend back to behind where the seat cross member goes. Option 2: go all the way back to the rear of the floor and join onto the flat bit of the boot floor curve(rear of the floor where the panels join, there's a run of spot welds). I'm leaning to option 1 as they'd look just like standard ones but a little longer, I can't see the strength benefit in going all the way back, however that doesn't mean there's not any. Has anyone any pics of how far back they went when they did theirs? Pics of how I've made them so far and the bits I mentioned. And

Hi I managed to source one over here, glad to see there's someone else sorting their car out properly! Yes, lots of sand, inside all the wiper motor area and every join/panel on the front end, some of it was as hard as rock and a pain to get out, however better to have sand than rust. Frame rails and floor were good on the inside(i'll post a pic up soon of them). The problem with a car from Arizona seems to be huge cracks in all the interior plastics/dash. Oh and dog-legs too.

I'm still going through the process of getting it tidy...... may take a while!

Yep, very pleased with the body Hr369: It wasn't be who bought the radio off you, I take it you've posted one to the sunny UK? the floor is pushed up, in the area in front of the seat bracket, it is now flat again after removing the damaged rail. I'm having a local place bend me some new floor rails in 1.5mm, so just a little stronger than the standard 1.2mm Once i've done the welding repairs its going to get media blasted inside and underneath so I can think about getting some paint on her

Remember when you bolt them on your into a whole world of chassis set-up. You need to know what you're doing and what you want. All this is very costly if you don't have an appreciation/knowledge/understanding of what goes on.

Looks nice, shame about the sunroof.

If its a proper restoration surely its got to be a colour that the car could have had in the year it was made?

Slow progress here, body strip is in progress, its timing consuming though and sometimes I wonder why i'm doing it, however it'll be worth it to have a proper rust free shell. The car's now on a spit which makes things easier. The inside of the car is getting there, the factory sound proofing is difficult stuff to remove. I've found a few bits that need repair on the floor, I think this is just trapped moisture combined with the fact that from the factory the sound proofing was put on bare metal!!!! A small bit of Datsun cancer Under the car the chassis rails are looking shabby from years of thoughtless jacking, new ones needed. On the mechanical side i've decided to stick with the 2.4 as i want a fairly original car, also going down to 7J wheels.

The cam is by a company in the UK, its a Piper bp285.

Howdy all. I've a cam 300/300 duration valve lift 0.453" inlet valve lift 0.451 exhaust Timing inlet open 43btdc closes 77abdc exhaust open 77 bbdc closes 43 atdc Full lift 107 deg atdc inlet btdc exhaust Am I right in thinking that the lift is a little low? Reading the specs it reads like it should be a nice 4-7000rpm grid, or have I missed something!? Its going in a 2.4(+1mm) 40mm carbs, proper exhaust, modded e88 with large valves and skimmed etc.

Continuing on a theme on here, I've got the chance to buy a set of headlight bucket's that have the OEM chrome headlight trims installed, the covers are missing. How much would these be worth? I was thinking of buying them and bonding set of the generic covers to the inside then properly mounting, I can't run to the money a full set are going for now days. So basically what is a fair price?

Have you a probable completion date for yours Alan? I guess it'll more original than some of the original cars.

This is mine, its a 10/70 build.

I've a lightend flywheel too, -5lb I think. My gearing gives me a nice real world gear set, 60 in second(60profile tyre) and 135mph top end.

Thanks steve Seems like I am on the right track, I've got to get the block bored/honed and decked then measure where the piston sits at TDC. It seems like you've almost got the same spec engine, how does it feel? nice and revvy? I've got 'tee books', I was more looking for people with the same spec and other useful info. The modern 5speed box and 4.44 rear end should make it quicker through the gears anyway.

Hi all. I've used the search function;) Bits below are what i've collected so are fixed(ish). I'm 100% going to use the original block in my car(09/1970). 4.44 subaru plated LSD Nisaan 200sx gearbox(C type) with shortshift Mallory unilite with hyfire ignition-cdi 40mm webbers Performance damper Piper 286 cam, 290 duration, I can't remember the full specs off hand but can dig them out. A set of 240z +1mm pistons new rockers etc I've got a 280zx engine in bits(f54 flat top/p90 head), exhaust will be a 6-2-1 with 1 5/8" primaries. I want a slightly 'cammy' engine, thats why i've gone for the cam and 40mm carbs to work with it. 150-160bhp at the wheels would be nice. What I can't work out is the best way to get to a higher compression ratio to make it all work. In the UK 95ron fuel is the norm, 97-98 ron in most garages. I've a e31 head(that'll need hardened valve seats fitting for uk fuel), also depending on cost the option of a lightly worked over e88 head. What will be the best way forward?

until they start leaking.

The stripdown has continued well when I've had time! I've found zero issues regarding the bodywork, just very light surface rust that comes off well. The engine came out so easily comparted to UK cars of the same age, all the bolts/fasteners came off so easily. Still showing original paint in the engine bay/under the exterior panels. Worse part was where acid had leaked in the battery tray area, luckily its all surface rust. I've invested in a pot belly shot blaster to get it back to bare metal. A messy job but the only way to do it! I've been gathering some parts as they come up.... Webers 40mm and a l28(f54 flattop block+p90 head) Heads in great shape. NOS kmac ARB's - sway bars Also i've got a 4.44 subaru r180 LSD. I've got these wheels, 15x8 but i'm not sure if they'll be too wide yet so might get some others, 15x7 maybe. I'm going for a s14 box/subaru 4.44 lsd/l28/cam/40mm webers/1+mm forged pistons and a full rebuild. All when time and money permit. I'm keeping the standard engine and doing a standard rebuild on it too(there's a tiny bit of smoke you see). Plan for now is to get the car on a roll over jig and clean/derust/re seal+paint along with new stone chip. If I can get the car better than new underneath then at least it should last another 40 years. Long term is a 'classic' type upgrade, just like you could do in the 70's. L28 engine with modern box/diff. The rest will be a full interior resto, externally the car will be on 15" wheels(55 or 60 profile tyres), looking like it should do;)

looks great, what wheel/tyre size have you got fitted?

Cheers, I'll need it! Plenty of questions to ask too

Hi all. This is my 240z, its a 10/1970. Spent its life in Arizona till November 2011, now its in sunny Lincoln, England. Due to the 'wetter' weather we have here I intend to strip it down and sort out any rust/body issues before giving the whole car a refresh. A great guy in the UK told me about this site, he just happens to have more than a few lovely z's too. This is the car when it arrived.. Its one of the later series one car, an early 12,000 chassis number. So far i've been stripping it down to find any of the dreaded brown stuff.... When scraping the factory sound proofing off i've found a few small holes so i'm very pleased, also a bad dogleg repair that i've got to sort too. I'm also trying to build up a stock of parts to make her like new, so far door cards/seat covers/dash cover and engine parts. Getting LHD parts isn't that easy over here:ermm: A total refresh is planned expect exterior paint which will have to wait a few years due to cost.

anyone??