ZcarFanMan

Might be a bit of "Bid Padding" gong on.

It looks like it's back up again. I wonder what happened. Datsun Z Series Coupe | eBay

Someone scored! The story jives with what the lady selling it told me on the phone. Might just be coincidence. My post: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/ebay-craigslist/51360-1970-240z-cl-socal-damn.html Datsun Z Series Coupe | eBay

Finally picked her up yesterday. Here's a few pics of the lines from the radiator that are plugged and the tranny.

Thanks!

Looking at a pic he sent me and his description of the console I think it's just missing the outer shifter boot for the stick. Maybe? Here's a pic, not too good but you can see what I mean. My intentions are weekend driving, occasional trips to vegas with the wife (250 miles one way). Nothing that requires a led foot. How's the get up and go factor with the AT compared to the manual? kick down for passing as opposed to down shifting etc.. thanks Jim

There's oil cooler lines coming from the bottom of the radiator that are capped off at some metal plate. I'm just going by description of what my friend gave me. The car is still in reno, on my next run reno in a few weeks i'll pick it up. Lucky for me i'm an auto transporter so it'll be a breeze. Hmm, I read that it was mid A/T production era. Maybe it's a true 4 speed. Thanks!

I came across a 240z dated 8/70 vin HLS30008992 with A/C. It looks like it was converted from A/T to 4sp. Would it be worth it to swap back to A/T? I'm not looking for performance gains or anything. I just want to get it back to an original state. I've never driven an AT z before, are they gutless? Should I just keep the manual and move on? Opinions please. Thanks

Interested! How nice would it be to have matching CF dash & console..

OK, the car is still up in reno & I had him check it out for a 4 speed swap. It was swapped to a 4 speed. It has the oil cooler lines capped off and the center part of the console removed for the 4 speed. Bummer. So now I have a few questions. 1, Should I put it back to A/T for value sake? If so, what's involved? (is it a hassle?) 2. how much are consoles going for, either A/T or 4 speed? 3. Could that be why the clutch,brake & gas pedal look lightly used? Either way I'm glad to own it. Thanks.

Interesting. I'll look into that. Thanks for the heads up!! BTW, I think I would rather work on this 70 Z over the 72, I don't have the time or $$ to do both. I'm thinking to sell the 72 with a lot of parts I bought for it. motor has Matching #'s New seat upholstery, new seat foam (bottom section only for both seats) New carpet kit from MSA, tail lights interior side panels and dog legs door panels, door weather strip from MSA, Front and rear bumper overrider bars has new shifter inner boot & cover a 77 280z motor can go with it. Got the head pulled it, it needs a rebuild and the 280 motor was going in till I got to the 240 rebuild. New motor mounts new tunnel diamond vinyl from MSA Steering wheel refinished Polished clear Whats the ballpark figures I should ask for something like this? Here's the car: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/44180-what-buy-1972-240z-vs-1977-280z.html#post380995

, That would be nice & I would be broke! It's a friend of mine. We were talking on the phone about building 1.5L seadoo motors and I said I had a '72 240z I'd rather work on.. He then said "Oh, I have 2 Z's here in my yard". I asked the year and he said "1970 and a 1972". He sent me a few pics and I was like... Errr, ummm, how much? He didn't know what to ask so I didn't throw any numbers out yet. I'm an auto transporter so I made arrangements to work in Norcal for the week and end up in reno to visit him & check the Z. It's UGLY inside! Destroyed! He got the car in a bulk buy along with other cars and metal, that's his biz, wrecking/scrap yard. The guy he got it from had it for 6 years and it just sat outside I assume under a tarp if that.. The guy he got it from was the original owner and it must have been garaged. He said it hasn't been reg'd since mid to late 80's. I took a pic of the gas,clutch & brake pedals to show the "light" wear on them which leads me to believe the 79k miles are all it has. The 1972 he has is for sale also, it has a 280z motor in it. Fuel injected and all. It was picked on a little but not much. I didn't get a look at it as I was only interested in the '70. I only have 1 pic of it.

I came across this 1970 #8992 in reno that a friend has in his wrecking yard. We came to an agreement and I'll get it soon. Minimal rust and all hinges on the car are smooth and squeak free. The interior is blue and nasty. Black will be the color. The odometer shows 79xxx ND the motor cranked no problem. Compression was a nice 150 150 130 120 150 120 and it's the O.G motor. It has a c and the glove box is in perfect shape. No dents and straight bumpers. The interior is wasted.due to a missing driver side window for the 6 yrs. Floor pans are solid too. I'll post pics when I get home. Under 1500.00

I missed it by a day.. I hesitated to call at first because I was out of town and it seemed too good to be true so I called when I got home yesterday and it sold the day before. The buyer bought it site unseen and told her to hold it.. Damn!! OK, so who got it? *********1970 Datsun 240Z!!!!*************

Yes it is, I cranked the L24 #1 cyl by hand 1 rev to see where it landed compared to the L28... 20 psi was it vs. 35psi on the L28, Then pulled the remote start trigger and got 35 and then 70psi. I tried to shove the wedge in earlier but it wouldn't wedge, like something was holding it back... Tada... Hey, I really appreciate the advice and help you guys are giving! I'm used to the Seadoo jet ski forums which i'm very familiar with building and doing custom mods, etc.. Well, now i'm on the other side of the fence now asking the questions.... Love it! I might just grab that L28 or the L28/5 speed combo and take a chance, worst case scenario is i'm out 400.00 and gain some knowledge for next time..

What am I looking at $$$ wise for parts to rebuild this L24? Lets say worse case.. Pistons and all?

Got it.. Yup, a piece of wood left in there. This explains why I couldn't get my wedge in there..

What the hell is this lodged in there? It looks like a wedge was left in there from before maybe?

A few more pics

OK, got a few pics.. A few broken studs, a few spiders hiding, it was an easy task so far. Here ya go

Thanks for the "last chance" hope Chas.. I did only 2 cyls and i'm convinced the rings are shot.. #1 cyl I actually only got 70psi and after 4 squirts from the oil can it jumped to 105 #2 cyl 72psi, 110 after oil squirt. Damn! I'm going to yank the head today and see what I find. Whats the chance that these cyls will get by on a hone and not going over size? I know it's hard to tell before inspection but lets say it's at 168,000 miles, do they usually need to be bored or would a hone suffice? Thanks..

I told the guy I would bring a battery and my starter from my 240 since he didn't have one. But when I got there there was nowhere to put the starter. It mounts into the trans right? How would I crank the motor? This is all new to me, on the 3CYL 1494cc rotax motors we do the jump trick because the starter attaches to the upper crank case. No sludge seeping anywhere. The exh ports looked normal except #2 was white. Maybe i'll look for the L28 & trans to swap out.. Thanks!

Actually the oil fouled plugs were from my 240 motor in the car now. I just got back from looking at the L28 motor and we could only hand crank for a comp test, I don't know if it means anything by these numbers but they were consistent. 3 or 4 revolutions each cyl, the 1st crank all cyls went to 30psi the second crank ended up to be final numbers and didn't change with a few more cranks. The 35psi Cyl 5 you could hear the leak at the exh port. The motor was out of the car. Should I look elsewhere or are these numbers decent for socket wrench cranking.. 1 47 2 50 3 50 4 50 5 35 6 50

Thanks for the advice. The motor (Not sure of the year) comes with the manifold. My plan was to go with a header so i'm covered either way there. How would I know if the motor #'s match? I do believe the motor is original. I was going to rebuild and use the 240 trans/clutch setup that's in the car now. Can I do that, will they just bolt up? I'm not sure I understand about L28 clutch. I've seen other motors in my area with trans for around the same price or a bit more. This motor i'm looking at still shows the OEM paint colors pretty good. Thanks

4 of the cyls are heavily oil polluted, The plugs are covered in sludge, she's tired. I haven't yanked the manifold yet to see the ports. I haven't bought the motor yet, i'm going today to check compression and a closer look.