PastorMike

Dennis, Another pearl of wisdom; and just when I thought the SoCal sun might be getting the better of you. Mike

Bless you. Jer 29:11

My opinion: Do not purchase the carbs listed on eBay; too much risk. The seller listed as remanufactured, however, the description says rebuilt. Big difference! Invest in some truly remanufactured carbs from Z-Therapy and you will have a great working pair.

Not about my Z, however the PO was a governmental agency: Years ago, my brother and I attended a county auction where there was a very nice dump truck up for auction with a "frozen engine". It went cheap, $500, and with no means to get it home, by brother started troubleshooting the problem. After removing the clutch inspection plate, and screwing back in the pressure plate bolt that had "frozen" the engine, he started it and drove it off the lot. MANY long faces from the county workers.

No need to worry as long as your replacement is automotive grade. .25 vs .22 is well within the normal tolerance of that application. BTW: uF stands for microFarad, a measurement of capacitance. Mike

I just got home from a trip and had to shovel-out from under 6 feet of sunshine.

Bravo Jim, we all need family.

Dennis, that is very funny. Actually, I have encountered the warm wind chill; the Sun Downers - the evening warming when the wind compresses when flowing down the mountainsides. Mike

Aaa, finally an old-guy post. Sorry, but it's been hot and dry down here in SoCal. Please send us some water; we would even suffer the cold to get it. Our normal season provides 18" to 20" of rain; we have had about 1". Mike

Vintage Rubber has it for $35 US. That is probably as good as you can get. They have cross-sectional image on their site.

My transmission had the same symptoms. Rear bearing on the counter-shaft; the ball separator was coming apart allowing the balls to re-position within the races.

Try RestorationChrome.com

Condensers (capacitors) can short-out when a voltage that exceeds their maximum working voltage is applied across them.

It was a beautiful race executed by Greg and his Z. Glad that he was given the win.

Freeze mist is actually a refrigerant in a can (possibly not available in all countries of the World because of the local politicians concern for the ozone layer). This product will cool below zero F so be careful. The concern in the humid South is the condensation on the part when you are finished. So, let the condensation evaporate prior to closing up a compartment.

Get some freeze mist (compressed can) or bagged ice, and cool down the different suspect parts one at a time, making sure that the part is cool prior to moving on to the next part; this will isolate the part. After cooling each part, try to start your car. The problem sounds heat related to the part, this should find it.

It's been awhile since I've looked at the mating surfaces between the hub and rotor, so I can't offer a formal opinion on the subject. You would also be spacing your wheel out the same amount; which will affect your geometry; in effect changing the offset of the wheel. You could fabricate a spacer out of an alloy of aluminum. 2024T6 (50KPsi) or 6061T6 (40KPsi). Just make sure that you have full contact and your spacer is flat and does not vary in thickness. Currently I'm out of the country or I would take a look.

Just take solace in the fact that you did everything properly when you placed the order. Then, approach Rock Auto firmly stating your case. They should honor your request and either replace or refund.

Chris, I think that many of us are eagerly awaiting the results of the ZTherapy carbs. If they don't solve the problem, I know that someone will finally figure it out. I believe that then your idea of a spreadsheet will be in order. Mike

Les, Would we need to send our metal trim pieces to you for fitting to the new panels? And, approximately how much for the panels alone, and/or for a turn-key pair fitted with your covers and fuzzy? Thanks, Mike

You noticed the voltage going to zero at the battery. Your engine will not run if you truly have zero volts. And, the validity of the 15-20 volt reading is consequently suspect as being accurate. What is the voltage between the actual posts of the battery? Hard to believe it can drop to zero one minute, and start the vehicle the next. Mike

Thomas, We aren't neglecting your plight on purpose, but for me at least, it's getting difficult to track the problems when so many pathways have been travelled. Since you have probably learned SO much from this experience, it might be best to regroup and go back to the beginning and trace out the circuitry again. And, make no assumptions. Also, is there a competent friend that you can ask for help; even if they don't have Z experience? To answer your question: Whenever you have a DC circuit, you must have a return path for the current - in the case of the Z it is ground. Usually there is a ground wire on the connector of the ECU (not sure on your vintage). If not, the case would be ground and need to be bolted down (this would be a bad design flaw). The real reason for grounding the case is to reduce the electrical interference eminating from the circuitry within the ECU. Mike

Your post #1 said that the ECU was heating up - is it OK.. The ECU fires the injectors. The injectors are between the fuel rail and the cylinders. Check the ECU and all connections to it. Fuses again?

Wade, I loved my TR3. Once used a hemp rope in place of the fan belt to get her home. Ah, those were the days. Mike

I forgot this: Lucas = Prince Of Darkness