PastorMike

Here is the magic: Corrosion creates Resistance, Resistance creates a Voltage Drop, Voltage Drop = Resistance X Current, Watts (dissipated) = Voltage Drop X Current, Watts Dissipated = HEAT, HEAT = Melted Plastic

Well said Madkaw! Everyone, print this and put it in with your famous quotes.

The engine can never be "walked" to the trans with the bolts. Applying torque to the bolts removes any "feeling" during the mating process. The two must be fully mated first. Congratulations on your new son; not many experiences are better. Mike

While in the absence of a VOM, attach two wires to headlight bulb, and use that as your tester. It will draw in excess of an Amp and verify current path. It is quick, hard to miss the indicator, and can check from positive post to chassis also. It's like Zed Head says, no fusible links, game over. Mike

It is good enough only if it is a low-resistance path to the battery post and for sure connects to the chassis; electrically, not just physically. The FSM assumes a perfect world sometimes. Mike

Take just one circuit - turn on the headlights. Let's say that they are not illuminated. Now, start again at the battery and work all the way to the headlights, checking for power, keeping one lead of the tester on the negative post. This will test the +12V power to the lights. If you have power to the lights using the above proceedure; solve your grounding problem. The negative of the battery MUST be connected to the chassis. Common error after engine change-out. Mike

Those battery terminals are notorious for making poor connections. Start testing at the battery posts (the lead post itself) and move further away from the battery; keep one test lead on the negative post, and move the positive test lead, and vice versa. At some point, you will find no power. IMPORTANT POINT: With a low-current tester like a small light or especially a VOM, you might read a voltage, but not be able to deliver any current past a high-resistance contact. Mike

Re: Checking Rods. Just bent valve stems - rods probably OK. But, an off centered valve that cracks a steel valve seat, personally I would check the rods if it were my engine. Especially since this is a performance engine. Mike

The length of time to dry will depend on several conditions. Mainly, if you have any overlapping panels where the capillary action of water will draw the water in and be reluctant to let it evaporate quickly. As already said, use a hair dryer to heat all the metal in question quite warm for "long enough". There is no required waiting period defined by the manufacturer between processes.

Brian, That was an awesome testimony about what you had to do for your family. Congratulations for hanging in there. Mike

Very nice. I especially like the deep dish on the wheels. What is your offset? Mine are -10 on the same style slots, 7.00X14, and original from the dealer. My VIN is 15256 with a build date of 12/70.

Hi Ron, thanks for considering us... I am interested in the SU carbs if they are 4 screw type and are still serviceable. (Mine are a bit tired.) Possibly the linkage and other intake parts as well. We can PM on this. Mike

Arne, Thanks for your consideration, however my trip will probably be later in the summer than your timeframe will allow. I probably should pass on this wonderful offer. Thanks again, Mike

Hi Arne, I would love the 4-speed as a swap-out trans on my HLS30-15256, Sunshine Yellow. However, I live near Pasadena, CA, but may be driving up the coast this summer. That may be too long for you to save it. Could you keep me as a backup if no one else wants it? Thanks, Mike

Find out how to perform a leak-down test, and then do the test. You will be able to detect any leaks from the cylinders into the water jacket by listening for bubbles or hissing noises. You might need to vary the coolant level to detect the noises.

If it is indeed steam, the water vapor will evaporate into the atmosphere and eventually disappear. If it is smoke, the cloud will dissipate, but never evaporate. Smoke will also smell like burned oil; steam will not.

I think that we are talking about the Hydraulic Pressure Differental Sensor that resides under the Master Cyl. There is a shuttle piston inside that moves off center when there is unequal pressure between the front and the rear. If I remember correctly, there are wires connected to a sensor within the unit that senses this imbalance and triggers the brake warning lamp.

Cozye, according to tirerack's data, 195/70/14 only accommodates a 6.5" rim max (not that you can't go to 7"). The 195/65/14 goes to 7". Also, remember that I have a large negative wheel offset on the original slots that swings a larger tire into the valence during turns (wish I had zero offset, would have chosen 195/70/14's). The right-side valence was already rolled due to a larger tire interference issue. Your wheel/tire setup is very nice looking.

195/65/14 Michelin Harmonies on their way from TireRack. They were on closeout, so probably a discontinued size. Final day for the $70 prepaid visa card from Michelin. The offer expires tonight midnight EST.

I theorized that the brown color was due to rust forming somewhere in the master's rear circuit; probably under the rear-most rubber piston-seal. All of the interior parts of the master cleaned up OK, except the rear nylon cup part, which is still stained brown. Remember, DOT3 brake fluid is hydroscopic (absorbs H2O) and should be flushed every 2 to 4 years.

I had your exact problem, so I spent the weekend rebuilding the master with a kit found on eBay. It was a tough rebuild since the rubber seals are quite difficult to assemble onto the pistons. I would recommend purchasing a new master unless you want to stay original. Another symptom of mine was the fresh fluid turning brown in the reservoir closest to the firewall (rear system feed). After rebuild, plenty of dark colored fluid out the rear left during bleed. My car was sitting for 13 years; more work to do on the slaves.

Thanks 240ZGL, The small diam is because of the too few choices of tires out there for 14", and the large negative offset of the wheels would cause the larger tires to rub the valence. Even the 185/70 14's get close on the right front.

Hello all, this is my first post. I am doing a staged restoration on a sun-baked '71 240 (more on this later), and need an answer to my tire question. The rims are dealer stock, aluminum slotted, casting shows 14X7.00 on the inside. Offset measures -10mm (yes, minus 10, the original dealer sold Oldsmobiles) which provides a deep dish, and some tire to fender issues (during turns) if the tires are too large. It has 185/70 14 on it now... yuck. Look terrible, and not a legal mount per width requirements. I have settled on two possibilties and need some influence from the community. Both of these fit the 7" rim: 195/60 14 Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S, or 195/65 14 Michelin Harmony. I want to keep the rims at least for now, not a lot of choices out there. I will probably lower the car an inch or two with new springs. I have spent hours on the wheels and tires forum, seen things I'd like to do, but no new wheels until the restoration is complete. Thanks.