derbyD

Thank you Mike and Zed, that is exactly what I am refering to. It appears to all be fine. The explanation makes a lot of sense. Thank you both for your time.

I dropped my 3 speed automatic transmission from my 73 240z, replaced the flexplate and put it all back together. Now there are two fluid lines the feed into the transmission, and these lines connect to the transmission via a bizare bolt with a hole drilled in them. It appears that all I would need to do is bolt the bolt back into the transmission, although I do not understand how fluid runs through the system. So my question is, when reconnecting the transmission to the rest of the fairlady, do I just screw these in like any other bolt, or must something special be done. Thank you for reading.

Thank you both your your help. I did put the car up on blocks and push/pull on the drive line yoke itself. The yoke does move side to side & up/down just a little bit but I dont think it should move at all. The drive shaft does not move in n out at all. Mark you statement of "sounded like there was an 800 lb. bumblebee in the car" describes the sound very well. Siteunseen, I have left the mechanic a message to call me so I can take it back to him. Thank you both.

1973 Automatic 240z started making a sound like an unbalanced washing machine only when the car is under load. One of the passengers said it sounds like a dyeing jet engine. I have jacked up the rear and put blocks under the rear to get the rear wheels off the ground. The wheels spin smooth. When the car is in neutral and you spin the rear wheels that causes the drive line to spin unless I hold it and stop it from spinning. If I allow the drive line to spin I hear an uneasy clunking noise coming from the tail end of the tranny. When parked on a slight incline about 10 degrees the car rolls down hill when in park. We just had a mechanic replace the rear bushings, drive line u-joints, neutral safety switch and he adjusted the shifter and linkage so it would line up better in relation to the letters on the shifter selector assembly inside the car. I have 2 main questions: 1) what would you guess the problem with the car is and 2) would you think the mechanic may have caused the problem?

ty, I will give it a try and see what happens.

While checking to see if the motor mounts were good on a 73 240z automatic we held the brake and then pressed down a bit on the gas pedal (kind of like a power brake but not so much gas). The motor did not rock so that was good, the weird thing we noticed was the gas pedal stayed down to the point it was pressed. When the brakes are released the gas pedal comes back up. We have tried many times to repeat the process and every time it is the same, the gas pedal stays down to the point it was pressed until the brake is released. Has anyone else seen this before?

Questions... 1. Is it possible to remove the three nuts a top of the struts and the one bolt at the bottom of the strut. Bend the tab holding the brake line and then take the whole strut/spring assembly out in one unit? If so, I could take the assembly to my mechanic buddy where he will allow me to use his spring compression unit for free. There I could remove the old struts and replace them with the new ones. Afterwards I would just reconnect the three nuts on top, the one bolt on bottom and bend the tab to hold the brake line... Is there something I overlooking? 2. I bought "Monroe 73953 Sensa-Trac Strut Cartridge", are these sufficient for normal driving?

Thank you everybody. The car is all most done! We never could have done it without Classic Zcar Club! You guys rock!!!

Thank you everybody. The car is all most done! We never could have done it without Classic Zcar Club! You guys rock!!!

The wheels I ordered (konig rewinds 15 x 7 0 offset) came with black rings. I think they are centering rings. They will not fit over the very last lip of the hub. I grinded down the plastic tab on the center cap of the wheel and smashed down the grease cover, the wheels now fit great. My concern is not having that black ring on. Does it matter?

The wheels I ordered (konig rewinds 15 x 7 0 offset) came with black rings. I think they are centering rings. They will not fit over the very last lip of the hub. I grinded down the plastic tab on the center cap of the wheel and smashed down the grease cover, the wheels now fit great. My concern is not having that black ring on. Does it matter?

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/31117-konig-wheel-issue.html has many answers for me. From what I now understand the 16" has no issues but the 15" does. Would anybody know if any of the center caps from the link below will snap into place with the 16" rewinds? Motorsport! Wheel Emblems & Caps - The Z Store, Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

Getting ready to buy a set of Konig Rewinds 15 or 16x7 4-114.3. Will these bolt right on? Are there any issues with the center caps not fitting? Any issues at all. Car is not lowered and has stock valance. Also want to buy "Z" sticker for center caps. Wheel Details - Discount Tire Direct

My gas filler hose that connects from the gas tank to where you put the pump nozzle in, has a little hole in the rubber hose just above the hose clamp that connects the hose to the gas tank. It is a very little hole but enough for the fuel to leak out during filling or when the fuel is that high in the tank. My question is, will JB weld, Ultra Blue or Permatex "Form A Gasket Sealant" wrapped with foil tape stop the leak? Does anyone have an idea that could. I'm low on cash so buying a new hose is kind of out of the question. Thank you for reading.

I got a wind shield wiper motor off another z and it worked great, until about 10 minutes when the relay broke. I've spent some time surfing the web and can't find it. If anyone knows the part number for this relay it could really help me out. Thank you for reading.

The 73 240z I am working on makes "some hellacious noise" when I turn to the right. What should I be worried about? BTW the driver side boot is ripped. I am hoping new u-joints will solve the problem... is this wishful thinking?

ok that makes sense. BTW is the bar above the drain plug the "mustache bar"?

73 240z.. On the rear diff I saw a 3/4 inch plug (pix below). I thought it was like other cars and that is where you fill the diff with fluid up to the bottom of the hole. When my son unscrewed the plug, fluid came pouring out. It took him some time to put the plug back in and lost about 1/2 quart that he is cleaning up now. The fluid is black so we plan on changing it but how do I drain all the fluid, where do I fill it from and how much fluid should I expect to need to fill it?

N33 is on the intake

Thank you all, you guys are great.