metalmate

If you go to this website http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/ You will be able look up paint code info and the actual mixing formulas for any year Datsun. Hope this of help to some of you. http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/ BTW. Once inthe site. Go to the COLOR INFO dialog box, the FORMULA LOOKUP, the in the VEHICLE COLOR CODE box click on ADVANCED SEARCH. Then if you have the code number well, it should be pretty obvious what to do at this point. Hope this helps someone.

In 1975 the Datsuns had a "SUNSHINE YELLOW" paint code #019 If you go to http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/ you can look up the actual color formulas. Hope this helps

I would recommend getting at least a 30 tank. Also get a compressor with the largest cfm rating as you can afford. While air pressure is one thing, the volume of air flowing to you tools is very important. Sears, for example, has number rating on their compressors, 1, 2,3,4 etc; Air tools will give the about of air flow and pressure needed to operate properly. In short, plan ahead as much as possible. You'll never be sorry you got too MUCH air but, you'll darn sure be sorry if you get too little.

I have an 81 280ZX. Two days I got in the car after letting it warm up for about 5 to 10 minutes. I noticed the smell of gasoline. Now everytime I come to a stop after driving, I smell fuel. I have started the car up and checked under the hood for any obvious leaks but, don't see any. I looked at all the injectors, fuel rail, fuel line etc: Any ideas or solutions would be greatly appreciated. BTW. After warming up, the car runs fine. Thanks

Great replies to this post! I know from experience how NOT to properly apply bondo type fillers. Fillers applied over bare metal or lacquer based primer and/or sealers will not last long. The repaired area will rust and the bondo/filler may swell up and/or the paint will blister from outgassing of solvent/hardeners. Self etching primers are acidic on the pH scale all other primers and sealers, as well as most fillers are on the alkaline side. Seal the bare metal with self etching primer or epoxy based primer, let it dry then apply the filler. What the others said about letting fillers dry/cure completely is VERY important for long term success in a repair. Yes it's difficult to wait days or weeks for filler to fully cure prior to getting on with the paint job but, it's important. You can use an infrared curing lamp to speed things up. This sounds silly but, if you can smell the filler it ain't fully cured.

You've probably already removed your pinstipes and I hope you didn't screw up the paint in the process. For future reference. The safest way [for the paint finish] is to buy an eraser wheel at your local body shop supply place. These fit on a drill and will cost anywhere from $10 to $20. They won't hurt the paint finish at all as long as it's fully cured paint.

Ditto to that last reply on painting the car part by part. If you are painting with metallic or pearl basecoat the car really should be together. There are too many variables that will affect how the metallic paint job will look from the face [straight on] and from an angle [sidetone.] Temperature, humidity. spray pressure, spray technique, and a $^!# pot load of other variables make painting your car in pieces kind of a crap shoot unless the painter is really good which, puts us right back to, "ya get what ya pay for."

To check the paint thickness, use a magnetic thickness gauge, available at most autobody supply stores or the bodyshop will have one.

I paint and recondition cars for a living. I realize that the cost of a quality paint job is beyond the reach of most people's disposable income. But, ya get what ya pay for! If you use the factory basecoat as a starting point, make sure that it is the "ORIGINAL" paint layer. Most factory paint jobs are 4 to 6 mil in thickness. Adding a layer of sealer and/or primer, the color basecoat and then clear coat will probably bring the total thickness up to 10 mils or more, especially if a primer surfacer is used over any bodywork. If the paint thickness gets over say 14 mils or more you start running the risk of the new paint chipping rather easily, adding some hardner to the basecoat color can help but, make sure the paint system that's being used allows this. The actual time that it takes to "spray" a vehicle is only about 1/10 of the total time it takes for a good painter to do a high quality job. It's the prep work at each stage of the process that is labor/time intensive. Read that as, "expensive."