CG240Z

As far as I know it's the stock sensor. I'll take a closer look at it, I might have another oil pressure gauge laying around the garage that I can temporarily hook up to to get another read of the pressure.

I will keep that in mind. Here's a pic of my gauges at idle. I'm happy with this oil pressure at idle. How the pressure is when under load is unknown at this point, but I will keep a close eye on it. Alternator is charging the crap out of the battery, battery could be low from sitting and staying connected to the car. <a href="http://s254.photobucket.com/user/taillonml/media/280z/CEC46F0C-0E1C-4CB7-A31A-FCEE61568F5E.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh101/taillonml/280z/CEC46F0C-0E1C-4CB7-A31A-FCEE61568F5E.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo CEC46F0C-0E1C-4CB7-A31A-FCEE61568F5E.jpg"/></a>

Good to know, I definitely will.

The insulators came out great. Mine were looking a little rough, with a little black spray paint they came out good enough for me to stick under the car and hopefully never see again.

She's alive! Of course she needs some fine tuning, but she's idling and revving like a champ! Replaced the cap, coil, and rotor button. But the key was my timing was off, which I figured, but didn't know why. I swore up and down I was on TDC compression, I pulled the valve cover and watched and the cam, and saw both the valves not being engaged. Anyways, Dad told me to stick my finger over the hole and when it blows out air, it's compression, regardless of what the cam is doing. Long story short, I was 180 out. What a rookie move on my part! :stupid::stupid::stupid: But moving on! The cam sounds awesome and she's sounding great. Next up is getting the clutch working properly, then time for some open road!

Update on the engine: Went through the FI manual and checked all my continuities and impedances, every thing checked out ok there. Brought the engine to TDC compression on #1 and found the distributor was a bit off. Dropped the oil pump and pulled the distributor. Moved it a couple teeth over and got that lined up. Also found I had my wires running to the distro cap one plug off, fixed that. Put everything back together and now it won't start! So it ran when the timing was off, but not that it's right it won't? I'm kind of clueless right now. I checked all my spark plugs and laid the plugs on top of the valve cover and watched them go through the firing order while the engine was turning over. Everything looks good. Still no fire. Engine needs spark, fuel, and air to run. I'm getting all these. Not sure what to do next. Also, does anyone know where these two wires go? They are both blue, but have different connections on them, so I don't think they go together. I know they are hot when the cars on, accidentally grounded one and it sparked. It's in the wire harness next to the coil. Thanks guys. Pictures of the plugs laid on top.

ok good, that's one thing to check off the list.

Also what vacuum hose is suppose to go to the end of this? It looks like it helps with idle. I don't think this is stopping my engine from running right, but it can't be helping either.

So here's where I'm at guys, I need your help. Got the fuel rail put together, good pressure, new injectors, reset the timing to 10 degrees. Few weeks ago I adjusted the valves to the cam's specs, and I adjusted the afm spring. Soldered new quick release connectors to anything with a fuel injector plug, i.e. fuel injectors, thermotime switch, etc. The car is still popping out the exhaust and will won't idle without some help with the throttle. I've also backyard adjusted the timing just by rotating the distributor while the engine is running. I've also messed around with the AFM spring weight while it's running, both with no results. So here is a video of what I'm talking about, not the best since I filmed it at night, but you can hear what I'm saying. I'm open to all ideas.

Unfortunately I can't, I had to stand over top of the engine to see it.

As I mentioned earlier, here's a pic of my Pallnet fuel rail I just installed. Very simply design, you could do it yourself if you wanted to. For me it was just easier to pay $150 then try to drill and tap all the holes straight and correctly spaced. Right now I just have the FPR near the firewall, I need to find a permanent place to mount it.

Getting the fuel rail installed and hooked up. Simply and clean design, I like it. I soldered all new quick release injector clips onto my harness. Now I know I'm getting a good connection and they are easy to pop on and off.

You're moving fast! Great work. You mentioned your fenders needing replacing. My 2 cents on these is to save the hassle that I went through, order them from the dealer. I tried to save a $150 and got them through Black Dragon. Biggest POS fenders you could get. They weren't stamped correctly and were throwing all my lines off. I spent a week trying to get them to align before I ended up using them as patch panels to my original fenders.

Lets see some pictures of your Z!

Also, as far as smog, this car is not CA legal, nor do I ever plan on making it. I have the military ID in my wallet and I don't ever plan on putting California plates on this car. A very nice perk of the job, because none of my vehicles would pass.

Thanks for reading my thread. It gives me enjoyment that others get enjoyment out of it. Once I get it running I'll have to cruise by your place and check out your original Z, try to get it back on the road. This car has been a lot of work and I can't wait to drive it so I can fully enjoy it.

Fuel pressure gauge is an universal one from Summit. Fuel Pressure Regulator is from a 280zx, haven't looked for a place to install it. Also waiting on my 6th injector before I install the rail. Current progress is as you see, the rail sitting on my bench. I'll definitely take pictures when I make more progress. Also I see you're from spring. I lived in Beaumont, TX from 05-09.

Good eye on both. They are FJ3 injectors and Pallnet rail. Pretty simple rail. For the price, it was just easier for me to cut him a check, then buy a section of fuel injector rail and try to measure and drill out all the holes myself. It's a simple design and I hope it works out well.

I'm hoping this solves my problems, so no test platform here.

Got my new fuel rail in, simply design, I like it. I started putting it together, but one of the injectors Rock Auto sent me is different so they are sending me a new one. I also noticed that with the new injector tip length is a bit shorter. Is this going to cause any problems? Picture below for reference. New injector on left, old on right. Notice the differences in tip lengths. <a href="http://s254.photobucket.com/user/taillonml/media/280z/63748141-0B89-4598-AA5A-06100CE68C83.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh101/taillonml/280z/63748141-0B89-4598-AA5A-06100CE68C83.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 63748141-0B89-4598-AA5A-06100CE68C83.jpg"/></a> The new fuel rail. Tomorrow I am going to solder the new quick release injector clips onto the harness. Once I get the 6th injector, I'll be good to install this. Already have the ZX FPR. Will also need to buy some more injector hose. <a href="http://s254.photobucket.com/user/taillonml/media/280z/82C5C464-D1C6-4DD4-B85B-EF9BB6CD4ECD.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh101/taillonml/280z/82C5C464-D1C6-4DD4-B85B-EF9BB6CD4ECD.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 82C5C464-D1C6-4DD4-B85B-EF9BB6CD4ECD.jpg"/></a>

I am too having injector issues so I ordered 6 new injectors and the pallnet fuel rail. Hopefully I'll get the fuel rail in by the end of this week. It was reasonable priced and I can let you know how the fit and finish it. I also noticed how the FPR mounts on the backside and am not quite sure why or how that works.

Exactly what I was thinking. Figured I'd ask though. I don't have any kids, but I assume when one comes around the Datsun goes to the back burner.

I just put 12 volts to the two suspected injectors, I can hear them clicking. Next will be to lift fuel rail and test crank it like you said. I might just end up ordering all new injectors since these could be original injectors and I know for a fact the car was sitting for 18 years with fuel in it. I ordered new quick connect injector plugs since mine are in rough shape and cracked. I'm also thinking about ordering the Pallnet fuel injection rail system since I'll have everything pulled apart. I like the cleaner look of a simply fuel rail. Just keep throwing money at it until it runs right?? haha

Still looking at a May 15th debut? That's coming up fast.

Still waiting on my fuel pressure gauge to come in. I ran a compression test on it today just to cross it off the list. All good. I might have stumbled across something. Plugs 1-4 were fouled, 5&6 were clean. I know the engine is running rich so that explains the foulness. But it looks like 5/6 are getting fuel, they are getting spark, but since they were not fouled this leads me to believe those cylinders aren't getting fuel. I clean the contacts on the injectors, that didn't seem to do anything. Any suggestions on my next course action? Is there a way to test the individual injectors, or should I just buy 2 new ones? Thanks guys! (Picture or it didn't happen) <a href="http://s254.photobucket.com/user/taillonml/media/280z/C8F370DF-DFC2-4E41-86AC-4605B0E69C7D.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh101/taillonml/280z/C8F370DF-DFC2-4E41-86AC-4605B0E69C7D.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo C8F370DF-DFC2-4E41-86AC-4605B0E69C7D.jpg"/></a>