cardogman1

I see that you have a 71 sorry about that burt

careful has never been my middle name. If there is anybody that will screw something up it's me. By the way have you ever had any trouble with your su carbs. I don't remenber what year your z is but if you have them do you like them or are they just constant trouble? regards Burt

Thank you e scanlon I appreciate it. It makes sense to install over rubber for it acts as a cushion kind of. Instead of bare chrome on bare chrom. The bolts came with it so if the bolts are long enough you are correct. I have new rubber but it's really not a shame if thats the way they are suppose to go on. That would be a problem if I drilled the holes installed and then opened the hood and hit the overider. That would be something I would normally do. So thanks for the advice. Speak to you soon regards Burt cardogman1

Datsun Z guy what do you think I should do. Should I cut or should I drill throught the rubber. I just got a pair the rear is new the front is used but very good condition. Maybe you know someone that knows exactly how I should do it. Thanks for your help regards Burt cardogman1

funny you should ask I just did that yesyerday. What a pain in the i can't say it on this sight. Whats holding you back is the slider cables to the heater box there still atached. You have to take down the heater assembly underneath the glove box on the passenger footwell. The cable go back on the way you detatched them. Be careful of the fan switch knob. When you pass it's stem back through the hole you have to line it up so that the little whole inthe stem that the tiny screw goes through the knob and then the stem is calibrated or positioned so the white arrow lines up to "off" or you will be playing with this until you go insane. Don't crack the plate it's very thin on the bottom. If you need any other suggestions email me I had the darn thing off yesterday. regards burt

It depends on the year of your z 69,70,71 and I believe 72 had adifferent mechanism. The back part of the seat was adjustable back and forth. Thats why the space is alot smaller. I believe the 73 had the seat with the small lever to adjust the seat back instead of the dial' The back of the seat adjusted all the way forward. It sounds as if the seats that were put in your car are not the correct year. Look on the side of the seat and you will see a seat mechanism. There are covers that screw over the mechanism. If you don't have them I happen to have maybe the only brand new pair in the original nissan packaging on the planet. I bought them on ebay for $100.00. I don't need them now. If Iam correct and you have those seats without the covers and you want originality and safety let me know. The covers were there so you don't get your fingers stuck in the mechanism and also it covered up the ugly mechanism. The seats you have have a much bigger space between the seat cushion and the back if I'm not mistaken. regards burt cardogman1

I have a new shift boot that I bought for my 71 240 and now I don't need it I'll be more then glad to sell it to you for less then I paid for it. I got it from Motorsport last week. let me know. It works well and I have the new clips for it as well' regards Burt

thanks for the feedback alphadog . I need your advice if you can answer thequestion I posted about installation. I don't kbnow where I posted it maybe on open discussions. any way does the overider front bar attach over the rubber strips on the bumper guards or do you cut the strips and lay the bracket part of the bar on the metal. Do you know what I'm talking about or have I completely confused you. Do you have beauty bars on your Z? thanks burt

Does anybody out there know whether the front overider or beauty bar is installed over the rubber strips on the face guards on the front bumper by drilling the hole through the rubber and sitting the brackets on each end of the bar on the rubber. Or do you cut the rubber strips and lay the brackets on the bar against the metal of the guard. Or do I need different guards or different rubber strips. The car is a 1971 240. Was that confusing enough . Thanks for any help Burt cardogman1

Thanks for the advice peter I appreciate it and have a tendency to agree with you. I could live with it. The hood accent is painted around the raised part of the hood. The rear panel is painted gloss black. I don't think I'll touch the hood but the rear panel would be easy to spray original and probably won't change the value to much. I'll post pictures when I figure out how to do it. Probably will have my wife or 14 year old son do it. regards Burt

Thank you Datsun Z guy and jeremiah the proffesional Z car nut. for the advice on the paint for the rear panel of my 71 240. Jeremiah I live on Long Island and there are now clubs around here the clubs you mentioned are to far away. But thanks anyway. Speak to you soon guys Burt

Thanks for responding z car fanatics. I to am one. I had a 71 when I was 23 years old in 1973. I adored that car. I also watched it rust out before my eyes. Back then you would bring the car to the body shop they would fix it and then it would immediately start rusting again. Remanufactured american steel and no primer on the inside of the body panels. As for Ziebarting I am suspicious about that process. Thats one of the reason the company went out of business. Althought my car has no rust I can guarantee that if I drove this car in the rain and snow it would rust. You know the advantage to owning this car in 2003 is that it really is a hobby now. It's in my garage and I will only drive the car when the weather is nice. I spend alot of time looking at it. I don't really care for the accent the previous owner put on the hood. He also painted the rear panel gloss black. I don't like that either. If any one knows the paint code for the rear panel please let me know. I know it was a medium flat grey. I just had a moderate amount of mechanical work done on it including a radiator I got from motorsports that the mechanic just told me is leaking at the neck of the lower outlet tube or whatever you call it and now the water pump is leaking too. So that's where I've been for the last half hour spending even more money. The advantage is that this car may end up being a better investment then the stock market right now. I do agree that the car was alot of money. However it's completely original and in my opinion better then Nissans program of a few years ago when they had two independent shops restoring z cars for $27.000 dollars. Thanks for reading this and keep in touch best regards burt

sorry for the mispelled words I didn't check my response before I sent it I probably am iliterate.

you are correct sir thia vehicle is that same car. I is all original and I did pay the 18.000. Of course I have had to do some typical service on the vehicle. Not withstanding the minute I put the heat on here in New York where it's freezing the radiator and heater core basically blew up. Just spent the last two days replacing both parts. Try getting a heater core. You can be elected president faster. Anyway when I figure out how to use my camera to download pictures to all I will do it. One of the reasons I don't visit this clib much is because I find this site kind of complicated. To many steps. I wish the format can be changed it's ust to complicated to get on with the icons and the text. Am I right or am I just computer iliterate. Keep in touch Burt

I own a 240z with 14,000 original miles. I purchased this vehicle from a gentleman in Florida that purchased it from the dealer in 1971 new. He was 38 years ol. He is now 69 years old. The first few years he put the mileage on the car. Then he put it in the garage with a car cover on it until I purchased it last month. The vehicle is new and completely original. I will show pictures soon. It may be one of the most original perfect 1971 240Z cars on the planet. Silver with black interior and an 8track radio a dealer option in 1971 and it works.