Ted.

Carb parts box and filler neck to 43212

Actually, what everyone said here was what I was thinking the longer I looked at the pictures. Tail gate and emblems through me off until I really looked at it, but I got the vin and its a 73 model year. Thanks for the words of advice guys. As far as the price range is concerned, I'm at around the 2500-3000 for starting, but I'm pulling a couple grand a month right now, roughly 1200 after bills. I might just continue waiting and save up another few grand and get one of the nicer running driving ones. For example, some of the ones Blue posted. If anyone finds a cleaner one in my current price range, however, shoot me a PM with the link and/or info if you remember this

As you can see, its pretty solid all around, but those few trouble spots have me kinda leery. What do you guys think?

So, I've been searching for a series 1 to start a project, and I ended up finding one thats relatively close by. Obviously, seeing as we're right in the middle of the rust belt, there are a few issues. The car is for sale for $2,000 obo, which for a series 1 with the work done to it seems pretty good, but this frame rail has me kind of wary of the purchase. Being wary tends to make me say no automatically to make sure I don't get in over my head. However, finding a series 1, let alone one thats in my price range AND less then 100 miles away is pretty awesome. This kind of makes me want to pull the trigger, but I figured I would get a second opinion from the lovely people of the internet. Battery tray and lower section of the hatch surround is gone, too. And there is a section on the driver door jam I want a closer look at. Anyways.... Here are the pics!

they aren't going to get 45k either, . They are going to get 20-25 or have the car for a really, REALLY long time.

Thats how Ohio is! For instance, here in Columbus it was around 39-40 degrees, and today its high 50s. Congrats on your first engine pull! Rebuilds are a blast, and if thats the stand from harbor freight (looks like it at least), it holds the L6 engines just fine

Oh absolutely. I would like to find a 260z shell once I get the motor built, mainly because the motor I have planned will have a 2569cc displacement. I can't wait to get back behind the wheel of an S30 chassis, the Z31 just isn't cutting it for me,

Thats actually a pretty nifty little tool. Would love to hear how it works out for yah

Its an absolutely gorgeous car, but its probably worth about 20 or 25 in that condition. Problem is, its going to be another 30 or 40 years before the condition of the car and rarity outweighs the amount invested. They just aren't that desirable yet.

Sorry, I completely spaced on this thread, . I ended up pulling the tank and had it cleaned out, then chemically cleaned, then relined and sealed. Costs less then a new or used one shipped. Set me back about 150 bucks, but it was essentially a brand new tank. Typically shops won't do it much anymore, so try finding an old school radiator shop to do it for you.

Oh, I know that. I never once assumed he didn't have extensive knowledge on the L-series engines or engineering in general. Its kind of hard to run a reputable shop when you know jack-squat about the vehicles you specialize in. From what I can see on his shops website, they seem to know what they are doing, I just didn't clarify enough in my initial post for them to understand what I was proposing. I haven't sent a message to Rebello yet about the engine. I have to check, but I'm pretty sure someone on here also mentioned using the P30 crank and E88 head instead, since I can probably locate it easier then an E31/E31. That might have been Al from datsunpartsllc or Rob from zcargarage in an email, though. Rob also suggested I talk to Dave at Rebello, so thats one thing I need to get on. I'll make sure to include my reasoning as far as price and part availability is concerned to avoid the same confusion that took place here.

I wasn't saying that I wanted smoke blown up my butt, but the fact that you made a cynical remark instead of a suggestion first speaks worlds about how you conduct yourself. As soon as I get back from basic training, the block and head and getting machined while I'm on leave. The build should officially start in the end of February, both the L24 and L28 should be in my garage before I leave, providing I can find the right motors in time.

So, you would rather instead of someone genuinely interested in these cars with an idea, you would rather someone come in and ask generic questions so you can flex your knowledge muscle? So far the only generic and go for it replies have been from people defending my proposal when you and Leon shot it down without question, you doing so with out any initial opinion or thought other then a cynical comment. No posts began with 'corrections', only personal opinion on what would be a better engine. I didn't ask what everyone thought about a different engine, I asked what everyone thought about THIS engine. Only when I felt I had been insulted. If you'll notice, until you and Leon started making cynical remarks, everything was fine. And when you stopped it was fine again. I know everyone isn't going to agree with it, thats why I posted this, to get more ideas. The fact that you two were so quick to shoot it down without a second thought is why I got upset, especially when I'm not just some kid See 4 The fact that I was using all factory components should have made cost constraints obvious. If I had unlimited funds, destroking this motor wouldn't serve any purpose other then to see if it was possible. Granted, I should have clarified it in the initial post to avoid as much confusion as possible The only argument that increased was when he would reply with a snappy comment. Notice, when you replied with relevant information, I asked questions and proposed an alternate way of thinking based on factory parts, as opposed to extensive machining. Hell, even when he posted relevant information after what I felt was insulting, I replied back without argument, only my point of view on the topic. If you know its going to happen, then why did you bother posting in the first place? If you hadn't, or had posted relevant information before being an arrogant Z savant, you might have had a future customer. I wasn't aware this is how a business was run. @cygnus Thats pretty sexy, man! I still feel the L24 crank will allow that with the light weight flywheel even more, and the rods will have a more linear stroke, so it will be more comfortable revving higher, as well. Still, it sounds really good. What does she pull on the dyno? How does the torque curve look?

Its probably not the tank if its still running. I had the same problem with my 240, and it would run fine for a few minutes, enough to reach operating temp and completely die after sputtering feebly in an attempt to keep going. I did all the ignition and fuel (from the coil to the cap and rotor and from the pump to rebuilding the carbs, and everything in between), before throwing in an extra clear inline fuel filter, which if you still want to check is a cheap way to find out. If it turns rust colored, thats probably your culprit. If its clean, its probably the air flow meter, as David said.

I think this is really cool. My dad has always been a unique, odd ball car loving guy, so my 'first car' was a '65 Corvair 110 that we fixed together. That was what Cygnus suggested, it being my learning to maintain and drive properly car. The daily I found for myself wasn't any better in retrospect (86 Iroc camaro ). One thing I would definitely do first would find an old radiator shop and have them clean and coat the inside of the gas tank. I fought forever with my first Z because of that problem. Replaced every ignition piece, rebuilt the carbs, new fuel lines everything. It wasn't until I installed a clear in line fuel filter that I found the problem and started kicking myself for being so narrow minded It was a good learning experience, though. I haven't fallen in love more with a car then the Z series. I wish you both luck and let us know if you need any advice!