Ted.

Everything was fine until you copped an attitude when you got upset that I disagreed with your first post in this thread, and I retaliated as such. I'm not asking anyone to stroke my ego about the engine. There is a difference between giving constructive criticism and being close minded. You did imply that I am a bench racer and that I am an 'internet engineer' I understood everything you were saying, I even agreed I was wrong in one instance, but you seemed to focus more on the fact that I disagreed in the first place. Your proposal defeats the purpose of the engine I want to build. I know I can make an L28 do the same thing, I'm fully aware. The fact of the matter is, in order for it to do rev as fast as I want it to, I would need lighter internals, which would defeat the purpose of using stock parts and ultimately the build itself. The fact is that you think by bashing on someone else's concept, then claiming that they are only wanting someone to stroke their ego when they disagree with you shows YOUR maturity. The problem is, you only seem to acknowledge performance in terms of power, which in motorsports, is an incredibly small area in comparison. To get the feeling I want with the L28, it would cost more. (See; "My old racing 3L had a LD28 crank and it ran to 8,000 rpm regularly and would rev faster then the Autometer Tach could keep up."). I understand with light weight components I can achieve freer revving, but not to the extent that I want, which you can't seem to grasp. If I just wanted a freer revving L28, this topic wouldn't have even come up.

I'm seeing if I can just make it easier on myself and pick up a 70' L24 long block(E31 casting) and an 81-83 non turbo L28(F54/P79) long block, as it gives me most of the parts I would need. Granted, these would all be checked and machined if needed. Then its just finding an L26 cam, new bearings, rings, etc. Thanks, Brian, I really appreciate that!

Yup, we have 93 here in most counties. If I have to drive over into the next county to get proper fuel then I will . Luckily though a lot of gas stations here in franklin county have it.

Why would I be insecure? I simply explained why you were wrong after you called me a bench racer, implying I didn't know what I was talking about and I responded in the same manner. Don't dish it out if you can't take it. You weren't trying to give me practical, real world advice, you were telling me what would make more power, which if you would read, isn't the point of the motor. So in this case, you're advice is completely contradictory of the type of motor this is, so yes, its unwanted. The entire reason the transmission I'm planning on is stronger is BECAUSE its the late transmission. The early 5 speed had 5th and reverse sharing the same fork, instead of the later where they each had their own, but clearly you knew that because you're a mechanical engineer, right? If you're not going to give any advice or insight on the engine I'VE proposed (not the one you think I should build), then don't comment. If you'll notice, Zed Head explained something wrong with my initial idea, and I accepted it and corrected it. Its not ignorance or attitude, its you. If you'll notice, Kenobi posted relative advice and I accepted it and responded as such. Its not ignorance and attitude, its you. When you can be a big boy and have an adult conversation, come on back.

Well, at least I know who the all knowing, narrow minded assholes are on this board. I'm going to take a shot in the dark and say you both frequent Hybrid Z? @Leon: I was simply proposing an idea and told you why I disagree with you, and you snapped back calling me a bench racer when you don't know anything about me, or what I've done as far as motors are concerned. I'm not aiming for a 8000 or 9000 rpm monster racing engine. By rev happy, I'm talking about FASTER revving, not higher, hence the point of the short stroke and lighter crank pulley and flywheel. As far as the displacement is concerned, I already said why I'm using the L28, because I like the torque. I'm going to lose some with the shorter stroke, yes, but I'm going to gain most of that back over an L24 with the larger bore. Onto the camshaft, yes, the L26 has only 8 degrees more then the L24. Correct me if I'm wrong, but thats what, 16 over the standard L28? And if we use your obviously incredible insight, that equates to 1000 or more revs up top! WOW! Again, its not about high revs, its about faster. Now onto the transmission, and again you miss the point. In the first post, I said "close ratio" transmission, which I'll admit, was said incorrectly. Yes, I'm recreating the earlier transmission in the later housing because they are STRONGER. The longer first and second gear (I.E. taller), will put me in the lower rpms LONGER, to reduce wheel spin by keeping me out of the power band. Onto your point about me not building an F1 engine. First of all, duh, I never said I was building a racing engine. Second, yes, all of that DOES matter when you're building an engine, especially when you're changing the characteristics of the engine by messing with the stroke. About the power aspect, yes, I will probably end up with less power then an L28 that had been worked over, but its HOW and WHEN that power is being put down that I'm interested in. If you want power, go get a Supra and do a single turbo, problem solved, and hey, it even has that awesome displacement you're so keen on. I never said the L28 couldn't be rev happy, but it takes an extensive amount of work to do it, where as I'm using all factory parts. Again, I'm NOT building a race engine. And as far as the last comment about cam and fuel, well, we'll just leave that alone since you don't really seem to be able to comprehend anything thats been said thus far. However, I'll cut you some slack since you seem like most of the people in the car scene, and don't know **** about how an engine actually works. Congrats on changing the cam, pulley, and flywheel on your car. I'm sure haynes helped you out a bunch. You might want to actually learn something before you try to put someone down. @John: Yes, your "RACING" engine put out 8000 rpm. Where in ANY of my posts did I mention I wanted a full out race engine? And when you're talking about faster revving, yes, stroke does matter, just as much as reciprocating mass. Also, the L24 crank weighs less then the L28...so what exactly is your point? @Kenobi: I actually messed around with GM motors a bit, too. Not to the extent of a stroked or destroked engine, though. You understand everything I'm actually going for, which is good. I would love to be able to shell out money for custom pistons, but the L28 flat tops will do just fine. As far as the cam goes, for the range and drivability I want, the L26 cam should be just about right. If not, I'll give a 260/260 a try.

Well, thats the cool thing about doing it this way. Later on if I want to I still have the option for the 2.8l displacement with an 89mm bore and custom pistons, and that is literally all I would have to do to get back up to a 2.8l (technically 2751cc, but close enough). Granted, afterwards I would probably run a hotter cam and switch to triples, but never the less, the option is always there!

I haven't been able to find much, but I did find what seemed to be a Z Car based email group archive that mentioned it. No real info in there, just a hint of recognition. I would LOVE you see that article whenever you get a chance at uploading it. Thanks Brian!

Oh cool! You wouldn't happen to have a link to that article, would you? Or am I going to have to hunt for a back copy?

10.6:1 with 93 octane and proper ignition and fuel should be fine. I'm still researching that aspect of it. If it ends up being an issue, Kameari makes a 1mm head gasket with the stock bore that would put it at almost 10:1 even (its actually like 9.983 technically), so I'm not to worried about it as of yet

Its not just the cam, its also the fact that the L24 crank is a shorter stroke. Shorter stroke means a shorter distance it has to travel for a full rotation, I.E. faster revolution, or 'rev happy' in comparison. The L24 cam has 8 degrees of duration over all of the L28s and the lift is virtually the same, so it doesn't have as much to do with the cam as you would think. As far as the transmission goes, the entire reason for the gear swap is because I want the gear ratios from the earlier 1st and 2nd because they are taller to help deal with the wheel spin from a rev happy engine. They would be going into the later transmission, because of the earlier 5th/reverse fork issues. This gives me a stronger tranny with gearing I want. The 3.9 is an open diff, which isn't really what I'm after since I want to have a car that would be effective when I take it to a track or autocross event. I do have a question though; would the 3.9 gear work in the 3.7 lsd? They both have the same pinion, right? I figured something out now, actually using all L series parts, too! So, it is possible to get 2.8l with the L24 crank, though it requires a set of custom pistons and a bore, which isn't really necessary for my goal, so, I've decided a 2.6 is fine for me. Round 2, start! Block: L28 F54 Head: L24 E31 Crank: L24 E31 Con Rods: L24 E31 Pistons: L28 P79 If everything is right, and I triple checked this time and the checked again in the engine calculator Zed Head posted, with a Nismo .6mm head gasket it would give me 2569cc (2.6l) and 10.6:1 compression. Run this with the L26 cam (256/256 and same lift) and I think I would be set!

Wow, I guess my math was really off xD ah well, back to the drawing board. I still feel like there is a way to make this work

While this may seem like somewhat of an odd question, I figured you guys would be able to give me the most insight to see if I've actually found something that will work. To start off, I've been an avid Z car nut for close to 8 or so years now (8th grade to 23), and have owned 6 different Zs. Them being a '73 240z, a '74 260z, a '78 280z, an '86 300zx Turbo, and two '87 300zx Turbos. You could say I have a bit of a problem! I'm extremely familiar with the L series engine, having built a few for friends, but I would like to double check with you guys for your opinion on this engine concept. I love the torque out of the L28, but what I really like is the rev happy L24. I figure why not try to mesh the two? There have been plenty of L series hybrids over the year, but I don't think I've ever seen one like what I'm proposing, which makes me think I may have found buried treasure. I want that perfect symmetry of displacement and throttle response that everyone loves. So, here is the build that I am proposing. Block: L28 F54 (The N42 is good, but with the webbing in the coolant ports the F54 is more rigid) Head: L24 E31 (Best for building a higher compression in my opinion) Crank: L24 E31 (Simply for the fact that I could get a whole series 1 engine and have most of what I need) Connecting Rods: FJ20DET (This is where it gets interesting) Pistons: L28 P79 (Flat top from the F54 N/A engines) Thats just the basics, but if my math is correct, it should give me roughly the same displacement (A little bit higher, but nothing significant), and a healthy but still street worthy 10.5:1 compression. The reason for the FJ20DET rods is pretty simple, actually. They come from the factory with the same big end diameter as the L series rods, and just under 1mm smaller on the small end with plenty of material to be spec'd. Not only that, but with the rods 140mm length, they make up for the smaller stroke of the L24 crank. Also, on top of being forged, they are just slightly wider then the L series, so there isn't a chance of hitting the journals. With the cranks smaller stroke, it should act like a destroked engine, but with the displacement for a good torque curve. Induction and fuel would be an E88 intake manifold, because of the water inlets to keep the car usable in cooler weather. Pair this with early 3 bolt SU carbs with the SM needles, rotary vane fuel pump and adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Clean the casting flash in the intake and exhaust ports and crank area. Electronics is pretty simple, just the 8.5" F54 Distributor with the E12-80 ignition module and the F54 60 amp alternator. Use this with a light weight flywheel and single row crank pulley (to eliminate the power steering and A/C), the 1st and 2nd gears from the 77-80 5 speeds and the 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears from the 81-83 5 speeds. Then its just a 3.70 R200 LSD and your done! This would give you a close ratio 5 speed with a tall 5th gear for highway cruising, and a torquey, high comp L28 with the happy rev characteristics of an L24, all for the cost of OEM Nissan components. Once I get back from basic, I intend to see if this would work, but I would love to get some input from you guys to see if you have any thoughts or suggestions. Tell me what you think!