1GENZED

Hi Is anyone using the bolt holes on the side of the block to mount the engine to a stand. If so which side are you mounting to and which holes are you using. I don't like how the block just hangs out like that with no support on the other end. Ahmed.

I'm just expanding on Mike's reply The flasher unit is the part that alternates your blinkers on and off. the clicking you hear is produced by this device. If you go to your local parts store they will carry three types of flashers, usually on the parts floor. The standard, a heavy duty, and a louder flasher. Just match the number to the one on your flasher.

I heard hes having financial problems. ANYWAY BACK ON TOPIC From what I know the wheels that Boyd's makes are a two piece design that are welded together. The rim is a standard part and the face is machined. It would save huge in scrap material and machining time. I personnally don't like billet wheels because of the grain structure. I would much rather have forged wheels.

"I tried rolling the contour in T304, but it was too brittle and cracked with the tight radius bends that the trim needs" I still think 304 is your best option. Was the sample piece you used annealed before forming. You usually can't do heavy forming, without having intermediate steps with annealing. what I mean is you can't form a tight radious bend in one pass you would have to have several rolling operations that gradually form the shape you want, with annealing in betweeen each step. You might want to look at 304ddq grade stainless it is designed to withstand greater forming functions before work hardening. Here is a good read http://www.askzn.co.za/tech/index.htm Ahmed

Hi Will No hit on 436 either. It jumps from 431 to 440. I don't think you want to use any of the 400 series stainless. I think for the properties your looking for, 304 would be the best. It's better for stamping and drawing, relatively. Doesn't have problems with intergranular corrosion. It reacts very well to welding. Welds harden very slightly. You don't have to anneal it after welding, to maintain its corrosion resistance. You can get it from McMaster-Carr The sheet can be ordered with a finish polished surface, but has a minimum thickness of .025" and 36"x96" your looking at $100Cdn a sheet. Man, I sound like a salesman. Anyway, I would like to hear more from you about your forming method.

Hi Will I have done a search and the closest number I can get is 347 I don't think it's what your looking for, because it is a high strength titanium alloy used for hi stress parts on aircraft... It is supposed to have similar machining properties as 321. I have machined 321, and it is very hard to work with. Cost wise, your looking at about $400Cdn a sheet. Ouch! Ahmed

I am going to use por15 on my suspension parts its surprisingly flexible stuff yet very hard, remember you have to tap all the threaded holes that get paint in them. I like the hammer tone finish the best, because it hides minor imperfections. I have been looking for a supplier that carries Hammerite in Canada for a very long time. A paint retailer told me that all the Hammerite products where pulled from Canada. It had something to do with a toxic/controlled chemical in the paint. She had one can left but it was that old Avocado colour that everything had back in the 60's. :sick: Doe's anybody know about this chemical? I tried the Krylon hammertone paint on my engine stand adaptor plate. It looked awsome when I sprayed it, but when I went to take it down the next day the paint had started to flow before it dried so there was a runny texture on the plate. No I didn't over spray it.

The way I look at it, it's good that these over stuffed collector car "investers" are steering clear of japanese cars. At least this way, we still have a chance of one day owning a real z432, a ZG, or even a 2000GT. I hope these cars never reach the rediculously inflated prices that would push them out of the price range of the people who truely appreciate them. I however hope that one day the collector car industry will one day recognize that these cars deserve the same respect and clout that any of the American or european cars command. Ahmed.

You know, the exploding ferrari thing might have something to do with the fuel tank being in front. It's sort of like how when the 996 first came out, even the slightest bump in the front, would cause the cooling system to fail, spilling splippery coolent directly in front of the wheels. I think it was an omen from the sports car gods. "Stay air cooled!" and "Don't sell out and build an SUV!" I was looking at the video and it got me thinking, with a properly installed and protected fuel cell, it shouldnt have happened the way it did. Im willing to bet there was a malfunction in the fuel system. Hey, is Porsche secretly owned by Volkswagon? Ahmed

HI EVERYONE Ive been really busy for the last little while, as you might understand. I think this is the most stress I have ever had to deal with. I went to see a lawyer to better understand the situation. He was extremely helpfull and actually recommended that I contact my dads home insurance providers, as they might cover us. It turns out that because my brother and myself where still in college when the incident occurred we are automatically covered by my dads policy as dependents. I would like to thank everyone for your support, I really appreciate it. Ahmed

Hi It's been over a year and he has now decided to sue for a very large amount. He is sueing myself, my brother, the school board, and Budget, not to mention the janitor who drove him to the hospital. What do I do? :sick:

Its not a rust bucket Z, the term is "factory liteweight"

hey Ed I found the website! http://www.classicmotorsports.net/

Hey vicky you ever see the vid, of a Ferrari test driver destructive testing a 456GT. I dont know, it would get boring real quick. I think working for BMW M would be more fun.

It was on Rides on TLC but I missed it. It looks pretty good in the front, but I don't like the rear quarters. They look like the designer just gave up. something similar to the Ford GT quarters would have looked nicer.

Hey Do you guys know/remember how hard the dash surface was, when the zed was new. Did it feel hard like plastic (like it does now), or did it feel like soft vinyl, over a hard surface, or did it have a little bit of give like it had a foam backing. I have a 1986 Jetta as well, that I used to use Armour All on, the dash was flawless. I stopped using it after I heard it was bad stuff. I soon after started to develop cracks on the dash.

Hi everyone I think I have an idea of what they look like now. Thanks for posting the pictures. I am now wondering if they where stamped from a sheet, or a solid casting. They look like they where stamped. I would also like to know what the brackets looked like. Thanks Ahmed.

I am interested in a pair as well. I was just wondering what the mounting setup is on the originals, does the screw only go thru the plexi, or does the trim ring flare out where the hole is. Does anybody have a close up picture of the screw area on the trim rings.