z boy mn

Hey everyone, Does anyone need a 1972 Datsun 240Z Parts car? I bought this car in Denver Colorado and while it was being shipped to MN it "fell off the transport" and was badly damaged. I'm still in MN, so the car will likely be scrapped for salvage...which just breaks my heart. The car (when it was whole) is my avatar...the car after the accident is attached. I will need to move on this in a number of HOURS--so call me now if you can use it. 218-838-4488 and you are in Denver. I HATE the idea of it being crushed for steel. P.S. If anyone ships their car, know that the insurance company covers it as "cargo" only...and will not pay its actual value according to NADA. I'm out $10K on this one. :disappoin [ATTACH=CONFIG]51696[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]51697[/ATTACH]

I (think) I have my avatar up, and I can't wait to learn how to play with the Webers. I've seen the jet kits, and I have a friend who's willing to help me tune them. I spoke to a technician at Redline (http://www.redlineweber.com/) and when I get the car I'm going to find out if the jets are stock or not. If not, I'll order the stock ones and go from there. Or...should I just order a complete kit? The seller thought he used the original jets that came with them, so with any luck I won't need new ones...it will just be about adjusting the ones I have. Anyway...VERY excited for Wednesday--VROOOOOOM!

Thank you everyone for your suggestions...but...I am clearly a Z virgin as I forgot to mention that the carbs are dual webers DVG 32/36's. I don't know which jets are in them now, but I'm guessing I'll have to replace them when I get it to MN. They operate with the same principle, though, yes? P.S. Anyone know how to make my profile picture show up next to my name? I thought it was a size thing so I used a smaller image, but I still am the anonymous "grey" person.

Hey everyone! I purchased my first Z (a 1972 240) last week and am having some issues with shipping. I have a few days vacation coming up and if they still can't find a driver I'm thinking of going out to pick it up and drive it home. BUT, it's in Denver...at 5200 feet above sea level, and has been jetted and tuned for that altitude. I'd be driving it to MN (which is at 1400 feet above sea level). The seller mentioned early on that it would probably need to be re-tuned and re-jetted once it gets here as it's a very rich set-up...but...if I drive it here, will I hurt anything? I'm worried about burning up parts on the newly overhauled engine! Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated!

Hey Oiluj, I may be interested in your door panels...they're black, right? I'm looking at a Z this weekend and someone painted/dyed/replaced the door panels with an orange/red color. Not sure the best way to undo the process, but I'll have a better idea this weekend.

Just finishing up this thread--there was a glimmer of hope, but in the end it was not meant to be. I've found another to look at this weekend, so wish me luck!

The photo isn't one of the car in question...just another vehicle. I think I have a link for the FSM at home and will try downloading it for a photo/picture of the non-domed carbs. Good to know that the vapor lock may be less of an issue...it isn't that warm here in MN anyway, but the car does have AC, so I'm guessing it will get warmer under the hood when it's on. As for the ignition...I have rounded up someone to go with me...that should help, too!

Hey everyone, I'm off to look at another Z this weekend that has a stock motor in it. It's a 1973 240Z, and I want to make sure it has the "domed" SU Carbs and not the "flat-topped" SU Carbs, which seem to be more prone to vapor lock from what I've read. The problem is all the carbs online seem to look the same to me. They have a black screw on top and look reasonably "domed." See the one attached as an example. Does anyone have a photo of the flat-topped carbs so I can be sure to tell the difference? Also, I understand that vapor lock was a common problem with these vehicles, and that there were things you could do (like insulate the fuel lines) to remedy it. Are there other "fixes" that are possible that I should look for? Finally, the seller also suggested that the ignition has been replaced, but wasn't sure what was done or how. Is there an easy way to tell whether or not it has points still? Thanks in advance! Adam

Yes...I was just about to post an update in fact. Bad news all in all, I'm afraid. I've been in regular contact with the seller and planned on going down yesterday with cash in hand and a trailer. Everything seemed good to go...when the seller got an offer from some guy in NY over the phone, which he accepted. When I found out, I contacted the seller right away as $$$ hadn't exchanged hands yet, but no joy. Furthermore, the money did arrive so the deal is done--though the car hasn't shipped yet. My last chance is to try to buy the car back from the buyer in NY...or pay the MN seller to do so...and then buy it. It's a VERY VERY long shot, though, so I don't have much hope that it will succeed. To combat my Z pangs, I've been looking a little online again for vehicles, and while there are a few--they all need tons of mechanical work...and as I'm not a mechanic, it would cost a fortune to pay someone else to make the changes/mods. When I took this one for a ride, I was VERY impressed with the performance and now recognize that I'm after something which is zippier than stock. For example, I test-drove a 280ZX-R a while back, and it wasn't any faster than our Subaru Outback.... So...thanks for asking, but it looks like this story won't have a happy ending.

Thanks again, everyone...and I like the idea of a wingman. I've arranged for one--one who does body work for a living--and found a shop close by. We'll see how interested the seller is once it's on a lift. Again, I'll update with news after the new year (assuming there is some)!

Hey SteveJ, I'm not sure the 260 head has carbs...and actually...I'm guessing heads are not interchangable, true? So, I better figure out which heads they are as well. Maybe I could pay him for the car...and pay him to keep the parts!

I also have the same situation...but for me the parts are going to be included in the price no matter what. The parts are: 3 blocks, a tore down 240 a 260 that is wrapped up 280zx turbo block 4 heads 4 speed tranny door glass 3 drive shafts / axle shafts roll bar differential Are these things that I can actually sell anywhere? He doesn't really know the condition as they've been sitting unused for probably 15 years...my back hurts already just thinking about moving them...but he wants everything gone. Thank you in advance!

I'm learning quickly that Z's eat $$$, but I think it will be worth it. I've got another appointment to see the vehicle and take it to a shop to check out that right rear tire/frame/suspension issue as well as the body in general. If it "winks" after that, I'll make an offer...and look forward to years of Z ownership! :-D

Great story 72 OJ...how did it turn out? Any photos to share? I'll keep my own eye out for a wink!

Hmmm. Hadn't considered an accident before, but that could be certainly be a possibility. Also, thanks for the feedback on fiberglass...I didn't know it could complicate body work so much. I will think it over and offer something once I get a chance to look it over again.

I didn't drive it, he did (it's not registered or insured at the moment). The fenders and hood are fiberglass, but just the enlarged portions of the rear quarter panels are fiberglass. He's riveted the fender into the steel (you can see the rivets through the paint), and I almost wonder if the reason the tire is slated is so it fits under the fender...it's definitely too close now, and if you straightened out the tire, seems like it would be hitting for sure.

Hey everyone--and MERRY CHRISTMAS! I took a look at this vehicle yesterday, and learned quite a bit. For starters, it was a total restoration--right down the the frame. He also replaced the fenders, hood, bumpers, and portions of the rear quarter panels with fiberglass when he put it back together to make it lighter. He guessed it weighed in at around 2000 pounds. Altogether--the good: he worked awfully hard on this thing, and took photos along the way. The engine sounds great, and it was VERY sporty. He also has tons of spare parts...like the original auto tranny, a 4-speed, and 3 partial engines that would go with it... The bad...there are a few items that need mending, and I'm not worried about those, but there were two issues that looked like they might be a problem. For starters, the right rear tire seemed to be way out of camber...it was leaning in (so top was in, bottom was out) a lot. And, it was just 1/4" away from the fender...even with the enlarged quarter panel. I didn't measure it, but it looked like maybe it was 5 degrees out? I asked him about it, and he said the tire was straight and he just didn't install the quarter panel correctly so it didn't look right. To me, something didn't fit. I looked again at the photos he sent (attached above) and you can't really see it as the pictures aren't "head on" from the rear. The other concern is that the paint seemed to be cracking...large cracks...maybe parts of the body work were telegraphing through? He did the paint job himself and admitted it was his first one. I'd hate to have to take it down to metal again to get it to look right... Finally...the tach doesn't work...some issue connecting it to the MSD Ignition...I'm guessing this is an easy fix? Any thoughts--or other questions I should ask? Also, thanks again for your comments so far as they've been very helpful. For me, this car was plenty fast--it really pushed you back into your seat, so I'm not worried about turbo...but the AC thing would be an option if I kept it long enough. That is assuming these other issues aren't fatal in some way and won't cost an arm and a leg to correct. So....MERRY CHRISTMAS everyone!

Thanks Dave--I did just that. And have a Merry Christmas while you're at it!

Hey everyone--off to see the car tomorrow--very excited. And, I have another question if anyone wants to stab at it. I've been doing a lot of research and I'm keen on having something as sporty as possible...but of course this one doesn't come with a turbo. Does anyone know if that can be added to this vehicle with the modifications that have been made? How much difference would it make? Or...should I stick to my guns and keep looking for one with a turbo that's factory installed. The other question I have is AC...my wife made a comment like, "if we're going to drive this in the summer, it better have AC," and my counter argument wasn't very convincing apparently (she likes the 300ZX models from the late 1980's better than the 240Z). Is it expensive to add AC....and turbo?....or should I just wait?

I like the idea of learning with this car--and as an educator I know experience/education can be time consuming...I'll spend some more time reading so I know more about the modifications that were made to this vehicle. It seems someone spent a lot of money on parts, I just wish it were on the road...or had been on the road...more recently.

Hey everyone, thank you so much for the advice! I've been reading posts here like crazy and have gotten a LOT smarter since I joined (which was yesterday!). I'll look at the car next week on the way south for the holidays and see what I think. I also learned that it hasn't been on the street since 2003, so as you all suggested, it seems like it will need a lot of work just from sitting. I was thinking about a $3,500 range as well--if I like it. I'm not a huge fan of the flares...but running Z's are really hard to find locally and I could live with them. Unfortunately, I'm not a mechanic, so engine work is beyond my skill set. I'm good with a wrench, though, so I can do the basics once it's rolling and the bugs have been worked out. I'll re-post after I take a look in person!

Thanks for your input! I just got another email from the owner and he said all the work was done 8,000 miles ago, and the chasis has 100,000 miles. Of course, someone could have beaten the *ell out of it for 8,000 miles! It's mostly been parked for the last few years...and the work was done by others, so labor would be included. Of course, this just leads me to more questions...such as...why would someone put in a tranny from a 280 and will that be a problem for parts later? He also said it weighs in at less than 2000 pounds...which seems hard to believe as stock they were something like 2300, right? Unfortunately, I'm not a gear-head (yet), so a lot of the modifications are just confusing....I apologize in advance!

Hello everyone--I've been looking for a Z for about a year, and they're hard to find in my area...hard to find good ones, that is. But, the other day I found this one on Craig's List and was interested. I don't really understand what's been done to the car, what that means in terms of how it runs, or even what questions I should ask. The owner hasn't been driving it for a while, and claims it's running around 250 hp. The link is: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/cto/2750815705.html The description is: 1973 DATSUN 240Z. OWNED SINCE 1984. OVER $25000.00 INVESTED.ASKING $5000.00 OBO NEEDS SOME WORK. I DON'T DRIVE ANYMORE AND WANT MY GARAGE SPACE BACK. ASKING $5000.00 OBO. ENGINE IS 240 BLOCK BORED .060 OVER FLAT TOP PISTONS, EARLY E31 CYLINDER HEAD WITH LARGER VALVES, .495 LIFT .290 DURATION CAM, TRIPPLE DCOE 45 WEBER CARBS, ADJUSTABLE CAM GEAR, OIL COOLER, MSD IGNITION, ALUMINUM RADIATOR, TEN POUND FLYWHEEL, CENTERFORCE CLUTCH, 1978 280Z 5 SPEED TRANSMISSION WITH SHORT THROW SHIFTER. FOUR PISTON WILWOOD DISC BRAKES, COIL OVER ADJUSTABLE SUSPENSION, FRONT AND REAR SWAY BARS. NO RUST. RECOVERED SEATS THAT LOOK ORIGINAL. ORIGINAL DASH HAS ONE SMALL CRACK IN IT. ALL THIS AND GETS 29 MPG ON THE HIGHWAY Does anyone have any tips, suggestions, comments? My plan is to find a Z I can use as a daily driver in the summers and make the best of the time when there's no snow on the ground! Frozen in MN, Adam