z boy mn

Hey everyone, I have a car now with a cold-air return on it for my triple webers, 3.1 stroker motor. Runs great, plenty of pull, all good. But, the air box hits the hood, so I've been considering just changing over to individual filters that mount to each carb. I know the cooler air helps, especially as the carbs sit right over the header, but I'm not sure how much. Is it worth building another air box? (The current one has other issues, too, like it leaks, has too many screws, messed up gasket, so I'd have to start over.) Top performance has some filters that would allow me to use my horns still, so the air coming into the carbs would still be streamlined. How much is the "cold" air worth to the engine? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachments/open-s30-z-discussions/65515d1377530600-mechanical-throttle-linkage-whats-probl There's the airbox as it is now...

Richard, you're not late, you're right on time! I had to push the diff back for other projects in the summer, but now I'm back on track and just started hunting down a bearing set for the soon-to-be overhauled 4.11 LSD. Wahooo!

This is totally cool...I'm always taking stuff apart just to see what's inside, and your photos may have saved my Z from myself! :-)

I noticed I can get almost 16 gallons in mine, but it starts running a little funny if I let it get too low...around 2 gallons or so remaining. I have a carter fuel pump and it starts making a lot of noise (more than usual even) until I fill it up. Must be at that point it's straining to keep the fuel running through the lines. I'm pretty happy with the mileage, though (combined about 20, highway only is 27 or so), so I'm pretty happy with it.

I put the Carter P4070 in my car (which has triple Webers) last summer as the pump I had ran too much pressure and not enough volume. I had a regulator, but I got tired of playing with it. I put in the Carter, took out the regulator, put the return line back, and it supples the 3-4 PSI rock solid all day long. It is loud, even with the insulation mounts, but that just lets me know it's running! Also, I ran a separate power line to it, which also keeps it happy and I can shut it down when I want to. I mounted it on the outside of the car, bolted to the spare tire well...maybe a different location would have been better (i.e. quieter).

Hey everyone, I know this is an old thread but I have been having a similar issue on my "newish" 3.1 stroker motor. Oil is bubbling out on the passenger side of the block between the block and the head just in front of cylinder 1 and near the dipstick when the engine is cold. The bubbling stops when it warms up. The head and block were modified by the previous owner (as reported to me anyway). The cylinders have been bored out to 89mm and the stroke extended to 83mm (using a diesel crank). The engine was assembled 14 years ago and it never ran until last year when I drove it home. So, I can look up the specs on torque (or use them from this thread), but does anyone know about changes in those settings for this sort of engine? It does have ARP bolts in the head, and the engine has 4,000 miles on it now (it probably has leaked since I drove it home, but there were lots of other leaks, so I likely didn't notice). Would I be best off breaking the head bolts free and re-torqing from 0, or just set the wrench to 61 (if that's the right setting) and twist (following the pattern)? Any assistance / help would be appreciated...thanks!

I don't have a recommended car hauler, but I do have a recommendation. MAKE SURE your car is insured with YOUR insurance company. Call them and ask specifically if it is covered when it's being hauled by someone else and there's in issue. Your insurance company is the back-up in case the shipper's insurance doesn't cover it completely. Check your policy to verify. Also, when you call your own insurance company, make sure it's being insured for "replacement value" (like on your house) rather than blue-book...at least for the trip. When communicating with your shipper, ask for proof that the hauler has insurance before you give them your car. And, ask what kind of insurance it is and what they cover if something goes wrong. Establish the value of the car in writing. Do not let them change the value of the car on the paperwork when they pick it up. Be sure to get as signed receipt for the car and the receipt includes the car's stated value. Why? Not everyone knows this (I didn't), but a lot of the "rules" change when your car isn't being driven by a human and something bad happens. Most hauler's insurance, for example, will only reimburse you the original bill of sale of the car, NOT the value of the car as stated by blue book, receipts for parts, etc. So, if you paid $1,000 for the car 10 years ago, installed $20,000 of parts on your own, the shipper's insurance will give you $1,000 if they forget to tie it down and it falls off the carrier and is destroyed...which is exactly what happened to me. :-( Hope this helps! Oh, yeah, the shipping company that destroyed my first Z isn't in business anymore, otherwise I'd warn you away from them!

Hey everyone--I got all the boxes done up and will be shipping things out tomorrow--thanks for helping clean out my shelves...hopefully the rest will go soon, too! Have a great day!

Hey Ehlers, I'd love someone to be able to use the side-marker lights! The rest of the '72 is gone...the only parts I have left are the ones listed. I was able to hand out a lot of it here in MN where rust is always an issue for keeping these cars on the road. But, I'd be happy to send you the lights--I'll keep my eye out for your PM. All you'd need to cover is shipping, and the lights are pretty "light!" .

Sent you a PM--glad to know someone can use them!

Just PM-ed you back, Dave, thanks for your interest.

Hey everyone. I posted an ad on CL this last weekend with free (and cheap) parts. I decided I'd offer them up here too since everyone here has been so helpful. The goal is to keep Z's on the road...let me know if you have any questions. BTW, the ad also has some parts for sale on it...but it wasn't worth it to me to post them in the classifieds section--I can ship those as well if there was something there you needed. The free parts are marked "$0.00" so you can tell. Hope they can help someone out! PM me if you're interested. We'll have to guess on shipping costs, but that shouldn't be too hard. Free or Cheap Datsun Z Parts

Final update on this topic for me...I was able to stick my hands behind the dash, pull the wires out of the rheostat, and tie them together. If I ever take the dash off or pull the tach for another reason, I can install the new rheostat, but for now I can drive at night again! Thanks everyone for your help! I've also got the headlight and taillight relay kit from MSA on my birthday list! Wahooo!

Just printed these out, Dr. 240Z, and I'll see what I can find for pillows and tackle it this weekend. Luckily, I do have a spare...it's just about getting it in. Also, I have an Allmeter tach, and it was installed a little crooked...this will give me a chance to correct that, too! :-D

Did a little more digging today, and it's definitely the rheostat switch that's causing the problems. I have a good one, but how does one get this out of the dash without taking the whole dash off? I was digging around today and I just can't get my hands in there to do it! :-(

Thanks for the tip, Pop, I took apart the switch last night and it was very clean. The last owner said it was new, and I believe him. I also have a spare switch from a parts car, and I took that completely apart to see how it worked (as a practice)...looks pretty straight forward...except now I don't think that's the issue. Last night it was raining, so I had my headlights on during the drive home and the dash lights were flickering but the headlights seemed steady...so, maybe it's the dash dimmer switch? I looked on Black Dragon for a new one, but they don't have one in their catalog. Any other suggestions or tips? I'm guessing, by the way, I could just bypass the switch itself to test it? Haven't gotten that far yet.

So, this has all been aptly timed. I drove to work today in the dark, and the headlights didn't come up when I flipped the switch. I switched it on and off a few times, and eventually I had lights, but it looks like my switch is on its way out. Is there a way to clean/repair these? I noticed "refurbished" ones on ebay, so there must be something one can do to repair them. I do have a spare from a 72 Z, but I'm not sure if it works any better as it came off a non-working parts car. The lights did come on, so I'm thinking maybe there's a way to fix the one that's on the car now? As for the wiring harness, clearly I'm going to run out and buy the MSA kit ASAP! :-D

Just chiming in again, and thanks again for the suggestions. I've looked over the directions on how to build these kits yourself, and it seems to me I'm a lot better off ordering something that will snap in and not have to worry about it. I think I'll start with the headlight kit first, and then get the kit for the dash and taillights. I'm assuming the headlights take more power and so will reduce the load on the switch the most. Am I right on this? I don't drive that much at night, but I noticed that the switches are spendy if they do burn up!

Wow...thanks for all the advice, everyone. I found Daniel Stern's website from your posts and will be dropping him a line today to see what he can do (or if he has any harnesses available). Seems like a good upgrade with high-quality components. Wahooo! :-)

Hey everyone, I've read the forums on adding a headlight relay set-up for Z cars, and saving switches and directing more voltage to the headlights makes perfect sense to me. But, I'm a little confused about what package to get, and the prices are really different. For example, Black Dragon sells a kit for $30: Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7 iCatalog - Black Dragon Auto Seems pretty straightforward...but the Datsun store sells one for $156.00 Headlight Relay Kit 70-72: Electrical Z - Lighting - 20030-EBE - Z Specialties Online Store - If we don't have it in stock, we can get it! I hate doing things twice, so I'd rather have something that will last than something I'll have to replace (or won't work)....but I'm not an electrician. It seems both kits basically do the same thing but in different ways? Maybe? Anyone used either kind and had any experiences?

Great pictures everyone, thanks for the link. Installing a cable seems much simpler than trying to get the linkage worked out, especially for me. My linkage needs a "repeater" of sorts because the linkage to the carbs doesn't line up with the stock one on the firewall. It binds right when the mechanical advantage is worst/best and the first axle grabs the rubber washer inside the stock firewall bracket. Makes for slop and stickiness. An upgrade sounds like a good winter project!

Hi Mike (and all), I also have triple Webers and there's a point in the linkage movement that sticks a bit. I was going to replace some of the linkage points with Heim joints, but I'm thinking now a cable might be easier/better. Do you have any pictures of your set-up? I'd like to see what I'm getting into as I'm still learning the basics!

Got it, and thanks for your help. Sorry to be so thick when it comes to differentials and these parts...I've obviously got a lot of learning to do. I'll do some searches and try and make sure I'm looking at the right kind of LSD.

Thanks everyone for your help. I spent much of last night trying to determine how many different thrust pinion washers Nissan made for the 240SX and 300ZX...thinking that if I order a set of each one, one of them will have to fit. So, turns out there are 5 different part numbers and I figured I'd order all of them and send the ones that don't fit back. Not sure really how to tell if they "fit" or not...is there a clearance that's standard? Also, one issue is that all the diagrams show a viscous LSD, not a clutch-based LSD...I'd hope the washers were the same. Of course, this is assuming that there are supposed to be washers there...maybe they're not missing at all. Still, seems like the gears really flop around on the pinion (not sure if this is the real word...it's the thing the four gears are connected to inside the LSD). Also, if I can't find a washer to use, I'll try the OBX option. I'm not a drive train mechanic, but it sounds like if I take it to one who can check it out, it might be a good option. I'll also check out hybrid Z and start reading there. If anyone has any other suggestions, I'm all ears!

Hey everyone, when I bought my 240Z it came with a damaged R200 LSD 4.11. I'm running on a spare 3.90 now, but I recently decided to repair the 4.11. This has turned into a major headache as I can't seem to find parts diagram for the 4.11, much less the parts. It looks like it was recently overhauled, too. The gears look new, the cluch packs look pretty good, but the bearings are shot and there are some missing washers on the pinion gears (I think this is what they're called...they're 4 gears that transfer the torque to the axles). So...no wonder it rattled and clunked and made very bad noises. Does anyone know about this rear end? The case says, "38311 P9000". The closest I could get to that at Nissan was "38300" which looks close, but the 38311 has an extra center bearing, so I know it's not exactly the same. The original owner said it came out of a 240SX Turbo, but without the car Nissan can't find the parts (some had 4-wheel steering, some didn't, and not all the diffs were the same). We found some likely close cousins, but the parts are expensive and I'd hate to spent $800 putting this back together only to find out the parts aren't compatible. Or...can I take the 4.11 gears out of this and put it in my spare and rebuild that one instead? I'd lose the LSD, but maybe I could put in one of those helioc ones I saw on ebay for about $400. (see below) http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-LSD-Limited-Slip-Differential-Nissan-300ZX-240Z-240SX-R200-End-Z31-/121131648924?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c3402479c&vxp=mtr I do know that this particular swap was pretty popular...and the original owner had good reason to think this would all work....but I'm stuck. Any help would be appreciated!