z boy mn

Hey 77, sorry to hear about your discovery. I looked for two years at Zs filled with rust before I ended up with mine, which is pretty solid. From what I understand, this kind of rust is necessary to repair if you're going to drive the car and I doubt it's going to be inexpensive. And, I think it's also worth having the car checked if the rails are that badly rotted. After all, they're pretty important in holding the front end together...and while the car may be ok sitting still, I'm not sure about cornering or worse, an accident. I've seen cars, for example, where the front end just collapsed under the weight of the engine...and if you're going down the road and that happens, it would be very bad. Also, there's really no "frame" per se on these cars, they're a unibody construction (think of an egg shell with wheels attached)....so, I'd get it checked. At the same time, I know that the rails are replaceable if you have the time and energy. Finally, this group is super knowledgeable and may be able to offer some more advice if you post photos of the car--especially the front end.

I did exactly the same thing, as I didn't realize part of the bushing was still on and the new ones wouldn't fit. And, the one I started with was really really stuck in...it took pliers, vice grips, and a lot of profanity to get it off. The other 3 just slipped off like they were supposed to! Good luck!

Thanks Blue, I did a search for recommendations earlier and did find that thread. There wasn't anything else, though, so I wanted to check. I'll use those if I can find an alignment shop willing to do to the work!

Hey everyone, I just finished up my 240Z with new suspension and a fresh tuning, and I'm waiting for the snow to melt so I can get it aligned. I have the factory specs on alignment, but there's not much left on this car that's stock. It's a 3.1 Stroker engine with all the trimmings you might expect. I'll be using it as a daily driver, albiet a sporty one, and I've installed camber bushings for some adjust-ability. I've also got the upgraded compression arms in the front, so I should be able to adjust caster somewhat as well. So, my question is, are there recommendations other than stock for these types cars?

Hey everyone, just an update on this thread. I got to tear into the rear struts this week and guess what I found inside the old rear insulators?! Yep, some rubber spacers. They were pretty old and hard, so it didn't hurt anything to have new ones, but they were there all along! So, those of you who were betting that they were already installed win a beer (but you'll have to come to MN to get it!). Happy spring, everyone--almost time to get the Z on the road!

I'll let you know what I find out...I suppose if worse comes to worse I'll just get new spacers! :-D

Thanks for your responses, by "in" I meant they arrived in the mail...I haven't installed them yet. I was just beginning to wonder if I needed to. Also, it's possible the old ones were stuck to the insulators or top hat, but the rear springs had been replaced relatively recently, so it all came apart pretty easily. I guess I'll find out when I take them apart again! Time to practice my spring-compressor skills!

Hey everyone, I've been working the rear suspension for my '71 240Z, and after I put it together I realized (after looking at Motorsports) that I forgot to install the Rear Strut Spacers. See link here: Motorsport! Urethane Rear Upper Strut Spacers, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts They're supposed to even out the car and make up for the fact that there's no steering bearing in the rear. So, I ordered them and they're in. But, I happened to be looking at the FSM this morning and realized they're not pictured there. I've attached the FSM below, too. So...do I need them? The rear does seem a little low, and I checked Black Dragon and they show the parts on the 240 as well. Curious! RA Rear Axle and Suspension.pdf

You don't happen to have a rear control arm, do you?

Just got in from blowing snow...I'll have the car checked out as soon as it all melts and make a plan from there. Thank you again for your help!

And it will wok in the other direction, too, yes? I'll need to move the top of shock tower out (toward the exterior) so as to add positive camber. I only need a degree or so.

It does look a little tight in there...and I actually have negative camber now, I need to straighten out the wheels, and my guess is that'll take another degree or so. If I understand it, I'd actually want to shorten the control arm...and right now the bushings are pulled all the way in...shortening it as much as they can. That's how I started thinking maybe I should just try to build ones that are adjustable...or just shorter. I figure something like a .5" would do it, but I'm guessing there's a way to measure for this (and I'd still have the adjustable bushings for fine tuning). Also, I did search through hybrid Z, and they had a couple good posts....but most of them included buying new control arms, coil overs with camber adjustment, or camber plates. For now, all are out of reach for me financially. :-( Here's the best link I found on hybrid, FYI: Adjustable Control Arm / LCA / Lower Control Arm FAQ - Brakes, Wheels, Suspension, and Chassis - HybridZ

Hey everyone, thank you again for your comments. It looks like I'm in good shape as have those bushings front and back as well as the Tension Rod kit for caster. I'll have to find a shop who knows what they're doing in terms of getting all the adjustments right. Also, it could be the street kit for the rear would be all I need. Hmmm. I guess the key is to take it in and find out where it is now and go from there before I throw more hardware at it. If the rears are within 1.5, I can simply add that one kit for the rear though I have a 240, I suspect it works the same way. I did notice the 240 kit has fewer parts (such as washers), though....I wonder if that makes a difference.

GnoseZ: I'll do some checking on the MSA site and see what I can learn. Good luck digging out of the snow today, by the way. We're getting some too, but only about 6"-8". I like the idea of slots, and I don't mind modifying the insulator some. Really, I'm just trying to get the tires to stand upright again as I use the car as a daily driver and need to keep tread on the tires. Chas, thanks for the photos, they make sense to me now. So, it looks like the key is the insulators...the standard 3-hole version won't work--I wonder if I could make a different version or something. Could be slotting is enough...my guess is they're only off by 1-2 degrees negative at this point, so I need to bring them +1-2.

I saw the pic, Chas, thanks. The bushings were pretty easy to install, so hopefully they'll work for you, too. Also, GnoseZ, do you have information about slotting the towers? This sounds tricky to me...and I'd hate to screw it up and...well....I imagine you only get once shot at it before you have to install camber plates. Do you have any pictures, for example?

Wow--thanks for the picture, Chas, that gives me a lot to think about! I'll take a close look at the pic while I'm looking at the 240 so I understand what I need to do.

Chas, I did use the control arm bushings from Motorsport...the same ones you linked to, both front and rear. They say that they adjust 1.5 degrees of camber. For my front wheels, they did the trick. Each one was off by just less than a full degree, and I can see that they're better. I'll have an alignment shop dial them in, but just visually I can tell the issue was fixed. But...they were not enough adjustment for the rear...still looking for options there. As for adjusting caster, I don't see how they'd do anything for that. I've seen new compression arms (I think that's what they're called) which will adjust caster, but mine wasn't too far off so I didn't really pursue that as much.

Thanks for your help, everyone, I'll check out Hybridz in a second. Also, I'm very interested in the modified control arms you talked about Chas. Hmmm. Sounds like a simpler project, though I think the tow in the rear was OK. My main focus is the camber, but it would be nice to do both. Photos would be great! Were you able to use stock shock towers with the camber plates? I'd love to go to coil-overs, but that's just to spendy for me right now.

Congrats on the new bushings, I just did the same thing in the last couple weeks (both front and rear). But, that's because my rear wheels were WAY off in terms of camber...like 4 degrees off. I installed the bushings and they made it a lot better (I put in new Eibach springs hoping to bring it closer to stock--it was too low before), and now the tires are off...but by less. I'm guessing they're still a degree or two out of wack. Hmmm. I started thinking about adjustable control arms, or the shock tower kit from Motorsport (Motorsport! Street Camber Kit, Front, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts). Any suggestions? My wild idea was to build new rear control arms from scratch (see my post on that earlier today)...or give up and buy them.

Hey everyone, I've been working on the suspension on my 240z, and marveling at all the beautiful control arms available from places like Arizona Z and such...but I can't afford them. I was thinking that maybe I'd try to build some rear control arms as I'm taking a welding class and need a final project. Has anyone tried this before? I realize I'd need a control arm to build a template for dimensions and such, but I don't want to bite off more than I can chew. Here's a sample of what I'd like to build. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/rear-lower-control-arms-datsun-240z-260z-280z brakes Thank you in advance! Adam

Hey Hardway, I'm not sure if we have exactly the same problem, but it's similar. My 240Z came with lowering springs, but they are too low and way too hard. To correct the problem, I spoke to Motorsport (and others) and everyone suggested the progressive Eibach springs, which should bring it back up to near-stock height (1" less) and provide a gentler ride. I like good handling, but my spine needs something softer for railroad tracks. I have not installed them yet, so I can't report on whether or not they did the trick, but I thought I'd offer my $.02 anyway. Good luck!

Hey everyone, I tried my luck at removing the oil pressure / water temp gauge on my 71 Datsun 240Z. I have a spare gauge (lucky me!), and the one in the dash seems to have a voltage regulator problem (the oil pressure and water temp needled) drift back and forth together in unison and there are other changes (i.e. engine is consistent). So, this weekend I looked in the FSM and tried to take out the center panel. Seemed tricky, and even with all the screws out it didn't want to come out. Not wanting to break anything or separate wires, I tried another option. The updated FSM for the '72 says use the glove box option. The glove box liner came out easy, but the oil pressure / water temp gauge is so far away, I'm afraid even if I got it out, I'd never be able to get it back in and connect the wiring harness. So...any ideas? Do I just need someone with a smaller hand, or should I look again at removing the center finishing panel?

I'm having a similar issue, and I'm not sure where to begin. I just bought the 71 240, and I took it in to be aligned. They adjusted the toe on the front, but that's it. My right rear tire needs to move 2.5 degrees to be vertical, and my left rear tire needs to move 1.5 degrees. The front tires are close enough that a camber kit (good for 1.5 degrees) would work....any suggestions? I do know that the car has been lowered, but I'm not sure by how much (or what springs the seller put in). Also, it has 16" rims. I'm thinking maybe taller springs would help get the rear wheels pushed out enough for a camber kit to help? The specs are: Left front: Camber: -.06 Caster: 2.9 Toe: .13 Right front: Camber: -.3 Caster: 3.7 Toe: .11 Left rear: Camber: -1.2 Toe: -.10 Right rear: Camber: -2.0 Toe: .20 Suggestions are MUCH appreciated!

Wow, thanks for the tips everyone! I'll try Advanced Auto in the cities and see what they can dig up. If that doesn't work, there's always amazon!

Hey everyone, just finishing up odds and ends on my new Z, and the pump for the windshield washer fluid is dead. The bottle is fine, so is the rubber (I checked the circuit already, and it's fine, too). Does anyone have one lying around that you would be interested in selling? My local auto shops only have generic ones, and the closest I found is a generic bottle, including the tank, at Black Dragon. I'd prefer to keep the original tank if possible...and thought maybe I'd get luck if I posted something here. If you have one, you can reply or simply PM me. Thanks in advance! :-D