Milenko2121

Will a 280zxt exhaust fit onto a 280z with a L28ET? if not, does anyone know of a good source rather than having a shop make a custom one?

There's a 280z 2+2 over at my local junkyard and it has nice black seats in great condition, and they're only $25 each. I'm wondering if they'll bolt right up inside my coupe without issues.

Yeah, I had read it, but I was wondering if I could just connect it directly in the engine bay where the temp sensor connects near the water neck.

I can't get 200 miles >_< tank maxes out at 12 gallons and I usually see 180

could I do the same thing but mount it inside the engine bay instead(between the wires that connect to the wts) and have the same results?

well, my spark plugs are white which I assume is a lean condition. would this rule out that it has turbo injectors or is there another way to know? also, how do you go about wiring up the potentiometer to the CTS? I've never played with one before. and I've been getting 15mpg every tank mixing street/highway and 17mpg on the freeway only

Just found out my engine wasn't stock, and someone had put in a L28ET and attached all other parts from the 280z. I'm wondering what can I do to try and help my fuel economy currently(getting 15mpg no matter how I drive). I understand the low compression isn't great for N/A, but I can't afford to convert all the way to turbo currently. Is there a different way to set my timing, AFM adjustment, or even my valve lash to help until I get the other parts together?

thanks, that's a good start for me to read. and hopefully not too spendy, I'd just like a 6-7psi boost.

just checked, and they are dished. this is kind of exciting. now I need to find out what I need to install the rest of the turbo into my car

the head has P90 stamped on it, and I just gave it a valve adjustment a couple weeks ago. could I feel inside with a small screwdriver and feel for a dip?

Are flat top pistons obvious vs dished to tell apart?

haha, that's hilarious well, i'm pretty excited right now. didn't know I had a 280zx engine. I just need to find out if the F54 has flat top pistons or not. Ill have to search for that somehow.

haha, thanks google was broke for me, that's my excuse >_>

just checked my engine. P90 Head F54 Block are these stock parts at all? everything else is stock, even the AFM, ECU, Dizzy

ok, so since I have one in the water neck, the sensor on the side can be ignored? Tomorrow I guess I'll have to go over my engine and check the numbers to see exactly what I have. what are the differences between the stock 280z head and a 280zx head?

I had no idea. I thought my engine was stock.wow...this is confusing now. what are the differences between the two blocks? can this chts cause me problems? how can I find out what other parts are not stock with my engine?

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/3769/41399924.jpg http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/8111/35219341.jpg I've found this connection and it's not plugged into anything, and I can't see any plugs nearby. Does anyone know what this is? what does it do, and can it hurt my performance?

I can't move it by hand at all, it's pretty stuck, and I've never seen it slip. it's just maybe 5 degrees off. it might be possible the previous owner had the wrong pulley, but it appears to work fine, and hasn't caused any performance problems, and the pointer is in the same spot every time I check the timing again.

thanks, worked perfectly. just curious, how did you come across that information?

got everything lined up car runs good now, but has a rough idle after it warms up(it idles perfect while cold) I suspect a fauly water temp sensor, but could it be something else that i'm not accounting for? going to do some research as to how to tell if the wts is bad or not and go from there.

I broke off the head of one of the adjustment screws and lost the other one somehow. does anyone know the size for the stock 1977 Datsun 280z 5 speed distributor?

well, thanks for the heads up, too bad I didn't just have a photo of what I needed it to look like. I did misalign the alignment shaft. I was assuming the "middle" was between the two lines, and I had to have it at 11:30 based on those, which was truly roughly 10oclock instead well, at least I know now. I'll fix it first thing tomorrow, and fire her up. thank all of you for the help, and hopefully this will fix it

Ok ill try that tomorrow, hopefully that fixes it. Im just trying to fix everything the previous owner changed.

so where the rotor points is where spark plug #1 should be? if that's the case, I need to move my plugs over one because I have #5 there. also, my pulley at 0 isn't TDC for me one other thing, the compression stroke, that has to deal with the cam correct? because when I set everything, it was all at 12oclock for the marks, and the sprocket lines up perfect with the cam mark, and there's 20 links in between the cam and crank marks.

I can't get it lower than 20deg idle I have not run a test yet, I don't have a gauge for it. could it be my front cover or oil pan not being tight enough? I torqued the bolts down to 10-15lb's anyway, I had everything set at TDC, got the oil pump installed at the 11:30 position(skinny side on bottom), the rotor points towards my left headlight(spark plug #5 is installed here). I have to rotate all the way to the right to get it to run at all, anything else spits and spudders if I don't have it all the way, when I turn the key it tries to turn over and then stops like it's stuck(doesn't do this with coil disconnected) one time I even had some slight smoke come out of the intake(was only once) the exhaust is really quiet, feels like I have no backpressure at all when I put my hand over the exhaust.(before I did the chain, it was loud where you could at least hear it easily and had pressure) if I set the idle at 1k or higher it idles fine my TPS is fine all plugs/injectors are firing it revs and drives/pulls good it's just my idle just doesn't sound right, and it seems like I'm way too advanced(i can hear the injectors ticking too fast) what could it possibly be?