Milenko2121

ya, it's saying i'm at 20deg at ccw fully all cylinders are firing

got everything put together, however i'm having a few issues. the car idles, but the exhaust is quiet, and the idle keeps bouncing. the only way I can get it to idle fine if I raise the idle to over 1k, and with the idle screw all the way in, I can't get it lower than 800rpm. I installed the oil pump to at the 11:30 position at TDC. what am I missing? before I redid the chain, it idled fine.

i determined TDC by having the cam at 12oclock (both lobes were up) and the crank at 12oclock(marker was at 3-4oclock). the mark on the sprocket is also correct however when I installed the pulley, the mark was about 5-10 degress off from the 0(it wasn't even on the marker)

the main question I have is do I install the pump and dizzy at TDC or when the pulley is pointing to the 0 which is just before TDC. Or is my pulley off?

got my chain and tensioner installed correctly, just trying to get the damn oil pan back on. that gasket wants to move around everywhere >_< anyway, one question. do I install my distributer at TDC or 5deg BTDC? because at 5deg BTDC the pulley lines up at the 0 marker, and at TDC it's not on the scale it's 5deg off.

thanks, and yeah, I'm hoping to find a 280z at a junkyard and get a new cap. the canister is fine, it's only that cap. if anyone were to have a spare by some odd chance, i'd take it off their hands

if the locks have never been changed, pop off the driver side door and take out the locking cylinder, it will have a key code stamped into the side, give that code to a locksmith and they can make you one. I believe the key blank will be a X7.

the canister on the passenger side. I do believe it's the carbon canister that filters stuff. how can I bypass it until I find another one? I only want to bypass the vacuum advance that goes to my distributer, or to be techincal, it goes to a T fitting that goes to my distributer and I believe my thottle body.

Just lined everything up and everything turned with minimal effort so i.think im in the clear

Thank you, I dont feel so worried anymore. So I did have a little wiggle room then. im just stuck waiting until Thursday for my parts to arrive.

I have a haynes manual that ive been following. Its got me this far without issues. My only fear is that the crank moved slightly without the cam attached and broke something. Id like to know if there is any wiggle room or not.

well I just broke off the tip of the canister that goes to my dizzy vacuum advance. Where can I get a replacement or is there a way to bypass it?

ah, alright, this might be tricky then. do I have any wiggle room for moving the cam without the crank? or is it any type of turn at all will bend a valve? because if so, then I'm pretty screwed because it has move a little by itself before when I was unbolting the nut after the timing chain tensioner popped out

how can I make sure that I don't bend or break anything because the engine is still in the car, and the head is still connected and there is no timing chain on yet.

are there any ways to turn the crank while the front cover is off?

thanks for the help and tips. and yeah, i've been learning a lot since I got my 280z in november last year. It's my first car, and it's the first car I've ever worked on. Been doing all the work myself, reading everything I can, getting help from forums(mostly this one), and so far, my car has been running better and better. While I wait for my chain/tensioner to arrive, I'll be changing out all the old rubber hoses, checking up on my injectors to make sure they're all working properly, cleaning all my electrical contacts, and getting the parts ready for the new gaskets to be put on.

my '77 was built in february and my cam is internally oiled.

I have this same issues except my spring is still intact, I've been trying to find a replacement, but no luck yet.

thanks for that photo, however I have one question about the cam, does it matter where the lobes are as long as it's at tdc compression stroke? and with the distributor, how do you know that's position one? because when I'm at TDC, it's pointing to the 10-11oclock position(at least it was before I took off everything so if it was wrong, I'd like to fix it first). also, I've heard of adjusting to 5 BTDC, what exactly are they talking about? sadly, I have to wait until thursday for my new chain and tensioner to arrive. Sucks just looking at my engine all apart and not being able to drive her... I'll just be touching up other issues while I wait.

well I decided to just replace the chain, it'll be here tuesday. I've got everything off and waiting for the chain now.

got everything out, but I'm still waiting on my timing chain to arrive... gotta wait until tuesday, which sucks. so now I'll be starring at my car for the next 3 days just being sad that I can't drive it.

well, i was just wondering if there were any tips mostly. right now i got the radiator off, and i'm trying to get the distributor out, but it appears to be stuck so i'm going to have to work at it. other than that, i'm unbolting the sway bar so I can get my oil pump out, and then I'll be dropping the oil pan after I get the crank bolt out.

I'm going to be installing a new timing chain, and I was wondering what the best way to remove the front cover is while the engine is still in the car.

My cam timing is off, and I was wondering what the best way to adjust the sprocket for the stretch would be? here's a photo

Ventura usually Oxnard though, but I'm down in Vegas for awhile now.