cronoz78

Looks like there is some play in my steering rack on the passenger side basically where the boot covers. Should I just replace the rack or does anyone have any better suggestions to attack first? Is there a rebuild kit for the rack? Thanks! 20200626_160313_1_1[1].mp4

I don't believe so because the front wheels were on ramps and the rear was on the ground. Actually, the output shafts can still move if that play occurs in the diff. Right?

I have been looking for a diff clunk. I have put in a isolator bushing at the top of the diff nose and still hear the noise (you can see it in the video) Recently, I went under the car and found the drive shaft had some play at the diff end, not at the U-joint though. See the video. Where can this slop be from? Is this normal? The diff gear mesh? How can I fix this? Thank you. 20190611_180511.mp4

An update to this. I wanted to enjoy my 3 mths of summer with the Z so I decided to look for a spare motor, and whaddyouknow grannyknot found me one faster than I thought it would take. Bonus: The guy lives 5 min from my office where I will keep the motor! Got a good price and its a F54 block with N42 head. Perfect place to start. Now its time to find an engine stand and start tearing it apart! Madkaw: Turns out that megasquirt guy lives nearby. We met up and I saw what he builds (very nice) Its a good option.

Av8ferg, Yes a slight power bump is all it needs. Too much and more things need to be modified (brakes ect) I'm not getting into that. I like it how it is. Once I get this car out and the comp. test ect done then Ill have a better idea of where to go. I only get 6mths a year with this car so I want to enjoy it as well. ~Love the smell of that old school interior plastic in the air

Av8ferg - Yes I would like to keep it EFI. I drive in various temps. I dont think carbs are a great idea up here. Siteunseen - Thats a cool little trick. I never thought of that. It looks like I can get away with increasing the fuel pressure reg. But in reality looks like I need a megasquirt to make this work properly.. Worst case scenario I just do a regular stock rebuild. But until I get this thing out of storage my hands are tied. Its packed away so tight I cant access anything under the hood. Not until a few weeks The cam specs were: Stage I Intake 26-64 Exhaust 64-26 Lift 0.475 Valve Lash Cold 0.006/0.008 Duration 270 deg 0.050 Duration 222 deg

madkaw: Honestly the car runs good considering the mileage and age. Whatever I'm doing is because I have the time and space for the next few mths. The rear crank seal leaks, rear transmission seal leaks, oil pan. I'm only doing these things since I have the time and space now. what I dont want is to have that car have a problem further down the road where it is not drive able and I don't have time to really get into it. Its for convenience right now thats all. I'm the first to say "if it aint broke don't fix it" which is why Im having a hard time moving fwd with this. I hear what your saying though and very aware. What I need to do is get the car out of storage (May) and look at these things again. run these compression tests ect. I have a camera scope i can send in the sparkplug hole to take a peek as well. Facing = Decking (some people say facing) grannyknot: How fancy to meet you here as well! lol

Av8ferg - no I do not Zed Head - good point i found this: https://zcardepot.com/products/fuel-injection-retrofit-kit-fast-efi-280z-280zx Totally out of the budget lol.

I have been told that the most experienced engine builders are on this forum so I thought I might get some help and direction. I am considering doing an engine rebuild on the 78 280z this May. It is only a street car, I drive in traffic and highway. It is mostly stock except for Headers, Fujitsubo exhaust, ZX distributor. I have had it for 8-9 yrs. The goal is a cost effective, reliable, healthy bump in power and fix leaking oil seals as the ODO says 27k. Now is that 127 or 227 miles??? I've done everything else myself but left the engine work to the last, now that I have time and space to mess around with it.Reason: leaks from here and there, need fixing so why not just get it over with...This will be my first engine rebuild (it doesn't look to difficult) Yes, I have the shop manual and the 2 books.Does anyone have any suggestions on things I should change while I'm in there? (N47 head) My loose plan: - Do a leakdown, compression and dyno test so I can have a baseline. - All Gaskets (Felpro full kit)- Block to be decked/faced, honed and head to be decked/faced- Cast Pistons - Flat tops any recommendations?- Head rebuild? decked/faced, ISKY 718147 Stage 1, ********What should I change here to accept the new cam? Springs?, lash pads?, retainers?, rockers?, shorter valve seals***** Recommendations?- New bearings, rod bolts, frost plugs, timing chain kit.- Ignition plan to keep the OEM (any benefit to a new ignition system?)- ZX Turbo oil pump - Adjustable fuel pressure regulator (suggestions?) - While I'm at it... flywheel faced and new clutch OEM or Exedy OEM Replacement Clutch Kit 06009. No lightwieght flywheel as I dont want a "blippy" thottle response.Any info would be helpful if you have done this before Where should I buy these parts because there are good parts and CHEAP parts If you don't feel like typing I can call you just PM me. Thank you in advance. D.

I guess Im a tad bit late to this party. Cozye, I believe I have the same issue as you. I have pulling out my hair trying to figure it out. Im about to replace the injectors then try the fuel pump (which has been replaced but does look real old). Did you ever figure out the issue? Thanks!

I am planning in a couple weeks to lower my 78 280z with the Tokico Springs and blue shocks. I will be ordering some bump steer spacers for this as well. I will also upgrade the swaybars with SuspensionTechniques sway bar kit. 1) I have reading alot of posts regarding camber change after they are installed and that is not adjustable. How severe is the camber? What will the effects be on drive quality? 2) I have also read that I should snag a set of 240 strut mount insulators for the rear so the butt doesnt stick up in the air . My car runs straight as a pin with little vibration - no complaints. By lowering this and getting an alignment I should be back to normal after the lowering. Are there any issues that i should be aware of if i go ahead with this change? Sometime's "If it aint broke dont fix it" Thanks!

Ok, Good to know. I just wanted to make sure i dont ruin what it was intended for by trimming it or removing it all together. @5thhorsemann, yes I have seen diff oil only at the propeller shaft, I havent seen any on the driveway so the diffy oil must be low, at least to the bottom of that seal. I have no idea how to fix that one just yet or what part to get. ie I have not researched this issue yet. Funny thing is that I just got some Redline to change both the tranny and diff oil today. Gasket Seal may take priority now. Thanks All

Well that isnt helping my diff clunk for sure (even after I installed Techoversions Diff mount). I have to look elsewhere for that noise. Yes the weight does look home made, thats the first thing I thought. Regarding the space needed Im not sure how much, I just needed to know if the new swaybar will fit before I order it. I don't want it touching or being to close to avoid any interference between the 2 pieces. Maybe I will have to grind the welds of one of those blocks.

Yes i agree on the AFM for now. The incorrect FPR readings are probably a good cause for my high gas consumption Have not had time to attack anything yet, and also I am waiting to see if I can get a Nissan FPR. If not will aftermarket do? What brand? For starters I will try to do the valve adjustment tonight at wrk by pushing the car in gear as getting to the crank with a socket is near impossible especially when its hot. I will check those areas for vac leaks as well As for the EGR its has not rotted out like that guys case (very interesting thread though, thats what got me more interested in checking out my EGR to begin with) Thanks!