73str86

Done! This was taken at the end of October. I'm going to post it in the Exhaust section for reference as well.

I think I'll check my local Pull-a-Part towards the end of the week when it warms up a little. There are three 2000 models. Are you guy's using any sort of adhesive? Or do these just compress around the hatch?

Well I finished the move to Colorado, driving a 26ft Penske truck with the 240z behind was not an enjoyable experience. She arrived dirty, and I didn't have my DD in Colorado. I had to drive her in two days of snow before I decided on another vehicle. It looks like it'll be up to 62 this weekend so I have a feeling I'll take the Z out. She seems to be drinking the 91 octane decently at this elevation, and I haven't even had a chance to touch the carbs. The timing advance didn't need to be changed, and she's running like a bandit. I have concluded the sputtering out at 5500 rpms is that the engine/carbs are sucking the float bowls dry. I have sourced a used NISMO electric fuel pump to remedy this. As of now it acts a bit of a rev limiter. It is leaving 1500 rpms on the table. I plan to do a 5 speed / 4.11 R180 swap this winter with a bushing refresh.

Just to add my bit of experience. About two years ago I decided to get a long block F54/E88 combo built up shortly after I purchased my '73 240z. I saved the original running block and the E88 went into the build. I chose a locally known engine builder, and had it built to a 2.9L ~10.0:1 comp ratio (heavily ported) masterpiece. It was fully balanced, blueprinted, etc. My builder also said the pistons were protruding too far out of the block to his liking. He said my choices were were a 2mm head gasket (could have been less) for $220 or for him to mill the tops of the pistons in his shop for $150. I was a little nervous (he is mainly known for making American drag racing and circle track engines) about the milling but went with his advice and my gut. I'm glad to read Rebello does the same thing. ~1300 miles later, I have no complaints whatsoever. Did a proper break-in, 500 mile oil change, stayed under 4,000 rpms first 1,000 miles. Now I flog her and she's a blast. Still needs some suspension work, but the engine has performed wonderfully thus far.

I'm a veteran, moving to CO in the next few weeks. Trying to get rid of everything non-essential items. I have to fit a 4 br house into a 26ft u-haul. I don't care about prices anymore (except for certain things). Come take it all. http://augusta.craigslist.org/pts/4704851980.html https://www.facebook.com/groups/TheZGang/permalink/769790313056109/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/255429391250815/permalink/601989539928130/ There's more, just haven't gotten to clean out the garage yet. Will not ship unless it's a higher dollar item worth my time to package, etc.

Took the 240z grocery shopping!

Final update: Yesterday he showed up in another Datsun, this time his daily driver 510. He bought the Z for $1750 and after waiting 3 hours for a flatbed, took her home. I like to give details in relation to the 240z market. I originally listed it for sale just under a month ago. As I got the clutch operating, new thermostat, cleaned it up without hiding/repairing rust, offers came in. Many, many trade offers. Cash offers of $1,000, $1,200, $1,400 were refused.

Thanks for the reply 26th-Z. Mine isn't quite that fancy. Here are the photos I finally took. Excuse the dusty interior. Would an aftermarket roll bar look this unfinished at the rear mounting points?

Car is pending sale for asking price. A gentleman pulled up in a '65 Datsun pickup his father bought new to look at the Z. Showed me photos of his nice 2 door 510 and project 411 wagon. I guess he took a loan on his 401k to pick up this project car to complete the family.

It looks like after owning my '73 240z for about three years, I still don't know everything about my Z. The PO bought the car used at a Datsun dealer in 1976. He didn't mention any performance upgrades when I was buying it, just that it was the longest relationship of his life. I discovered I sold the 99996-E1140 Datsun Comp headers over the summer (thought they were no-name, now I have NOS Clifford). Car has front/rear sway bars. I finally measured them...25mm front, 19mm rear. Presumably from Nissan. That explains why the Autozone front sway bar bushings were so hard to get on!! The last thing I'm trying to figure out is who made four point roll bars back in the day. It mounts in the same location as modern ones, but has no cross bar. I bought padding one day for the top bar, but after bringing it home realized it is so tight there is no room for padding. My conclusion is that in 1973, someone bought this car, and bought every performance part they could afford through Datsun Comp at the time, perhaps to autocross? I have 25+ years of registrations, receipts, nothing about these parts, so I think the PO bought, drove it, enjoyed it, oblivious to what suspension/performance components were on it. Do any of you remember buying/wanting/selling these roll bars back in the day? Photos to be taken in daylight. Thanks in advance.

That was at a junkyard?!? Dang. Nice find. The engine looks extremely promising.

Update: Money and elbow grease is finished on my end. Needs complete floor pan patched/replaced, rocker skin/patch, dogleg skin/patch, hole in battery box. No bondo, fiberglass, or sprayfoam in car whatsoever. I spray painted some bare metal/rust orange/black, respectively. Here's the classiczcar and craigslist ad, many lookers, a couple lowballers (gotta try), two people say they are getting funds together. Another local guy looking this afternoon. 1973 Datsun 240z I was told in person yesterday "I can get one pretty easily in good condition for $3000." Datsun Classifieds Ad

The friend chose a VW camper with no engine for $450. I had 20+ photos in the description; the auction ended at $910 but did not meet reserve. Next step is a few hours of elbow grease on the interior and engine bay, then leave it on craigslist.

There's one vote!

My 240z has been running great with new L29 and about 1200 miles on it. The problem is, my diff has been howling/whining for 1000 miles. Short trips around town are fun, just slightly annoying. Would you drive the 2 hours each way? I have free towing. My dad says if it was going to blow up it would've done so by now. Just haven't found the time to install the rebuilt 4.11 R180. If I don't take the Z, I'll take the fiance's Honda Fit and get 36mpg.

Looks like an eBayer in Bulgaria has met my reserve. The problem is I sent him/her a message 32 hours ago and haven't gotten a reply yet. Advice? I want to delete the bids but am unsure how long I should wait before doing so.

New Mr. Gasket electric fuel pump installed, bought new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder to be installed. Also listed her on eBay; friend was taking too long to decide and I've realized I don't have much free time to put into the car. Here's the link, bidding starts at $1.00. I would much rather sell it outside of eBay. Much more photos in the listing description. Datsun Z Series 240Z | eBay

Pm sent Steve J.

She hit $10,000 with almost two days left. Have any of you taken a look in person? I'm curious of a couple things: 1. If the seller tried to turn the engine over by hand, or simply turned the key, to no avail. 2. If the winning bidder will actually follow through with the purchase. Too many times I've had a vehicle auction end with winning bidder messaging, "Sorry I have a family emergency, can't buy the vehicle," without even looking at the car/truck. It is on Bring A Trailer so I'm sure that's bringing more attention.

I agree it doesn't look like original color. Paint code isn't visible on the sticker. Underneath looks red as well where undercoating has flaked off. Door jams are orange if I remember correctly. It has has the metal splash pan, which I was surprised to see.

Basically, I found this 1973 240z through word of mouth. It was not listed for sale anywhere. The story is it was an older gentleman's old time hot rod. He had a heart attack. I bought it from the guy's sister. My only intention is to get it in the hands of a Z fan, and not cut up or in the scrap yard. When I bought it, the car was on jack stands. There is the typical rust. The guy clearly loved the car at one point. I bought it with clear New Mexico title, soon to be in my name in a Georgia title. It has Montana and West Virginia stickers on the rear bumper. Here's what I've found out so far: -PO refinished wheels, brake drums (I had to put the wheels on car at purchase) -rear brakes rebuilt at some point -all brake hoses replaced -replaced alternator -pertronix ignition -rebuilt distributor -re-cored radiator by NM shop -aftermarket cam (ccw core) looks great -non-factory oil spray bar (this sucker is stout, no flex or anything, functional) -full cartech 4bbl holley setup with plenum (never seen plenum for sale) -rust in rockers, floors, lower door skins, dog legs, battery tray. -the seat supports and floor are semi-stable--I can sit in the car without sinking -interior is ratty -hatch area above taillights looks great, except has dime sized hole. tool boxes, spare wheel area completely solid -I can't find any bondo on the car whatsoever -looks to have been repainted at some point -windshield has been replaced, newer gasket, no pits/nicks in glass -at least driver's side window replaced -it has maintenance stickers all over it, looks like jiffy lube serviced it at 145,000 miles in 2001, it's now at 145 and change -no clutch pressure, but master cylinder is full of fluid. I'll sort that out this weekend I rigged up a gas IV of sorts to the carb, and she started immediately with fresh gas. The idle was so smooth I couldn't believe it. The aftermarket fuel pump (purolator proformance) was dead, bought a Mr. Gasket 5-7psi to hook up this weekend. Note: photos were taken with flat passenger's side tires...they have been filled and hold air. Basically my question is, do I sell it as-is (running, rust, cheaper), or put some time into it, getting it on the road, sorting out clutch, brakes, rust. My theory is, as-is, those with Datsun experience knows the rust is not out of the ordinary, and will fix the rust the right way or turn it into a race car. I have a lot of friends that love Datsuns, but are unfamiliar with them, and some have a sort of mindset that if it has rust/bondo they can't enjoy driving it. If a beginner takes on the rust, the project could never be on the road again, but if I put a little work into it, then sell it, it is more likely to be on the road longer/be enjoyed more. I have a garage full of spare/performance parts (car was built 3 months before my own) as well as a full 4 screw SU setup. I'm thinking about taking the cartech setup to put on the shelf. I have a fellow Subaru owner friend that wants the car pretty bad, but isn't experienced in diagnosing problems in an older vehicle. We have to learn somehow I suppose. My goal/plan is $1500-3000 depending on how much time/money I put into her. The Z population is thin on eBay, especially in this condition, and craigslist in the southeast is sparse as well. Most cars are 280z/280zx. So let me hear your thoughts.

Belated congrats for the new Z. I followed your other thread, and still look at it for my gradual rebuilt rear drivetrain install. Question about your 240z tint strip on the windshield. Is it applied to the inside or outside of your windshield? I found a N.O.S. one on eBay a year or two ago, and tried applying it to the inside. Maybe it was because it was a 30 year old piece of film, or my lack of skills, but I failed miserably and gave up. Recently a gentleman told me tint strips are applied to the outside. Figured I'd ask.

Look for a metal plate inside the driver's door jam. Towards the top there should be a month/year production date. Looks like she's had some motor work. Tell us more about her. Does she have a name? Give her a bath.

Yes 93 is available here in GA. I try to stick to the non-ethanol version as well (around $4.39/gallon). I plan on moving to Colorado at the end of this year. I think she'll run ok on 91. Is there a video size limit for these forums? I want to take a good quality video of my current exhaust before I change it a little.

A year later... I just broke 1,000 miles on my new L29. I gave up on the triple SKs; they couldn't idle enough to my liking and I didn't want to mess with all the jets. Sold them and made a couple hundred dollars. Back to my 3 screw SUs. I cut my throttle arm from the firewall to the balance tube to use the SKs, so I had to find a new rod...difficult task. Stumbled on a local guy with a parts car, bought a bunch of carb parts, ended up with the whole dang car a couple weeks later in exchange for a 83 5 speed and p90 turbo head. There was something wrong with the rebuilt kit I bought a couple years ago (maybe I got a flat top kit) that I put in because once everything was together, she wouldn't run. What do I do? Put in the original needle valves along with some SM needles...and she purrs like a kitten. Amazing throttle response, with stage III schneider, clifford headers, and borla muffler, everyone looks when I step on it. Sounds like a V8 at idle but the glorious straight six sound under load. There's one catch. Once I hit 1,000 miles I started taking her over 4,000 rpms. At 5,000, she falls flat on her face and putters out. I'm going to dial in the timing this weekend with a timing light. Upcoming projects: my humming diff is still going strong at 1,000 miles after it started. I have a fully rebuilt R180 4.11 open diff ready to put in, just sourcing some bushings and trying to decide if I want the Ron Tyler diff mount. Also looking for a used 432 style rear spoiler and non-ducted spook airdam.