That Ozzy Guy

Thanks Chris

Well, I didn't do it for the sake of it. The leads were shocking mate. The main coil one wasn't making contact so the sparks were jumping, some contact points were green, some white and one wasn't even connected at all. Good advice anyway so thanks.:classic:

That screw only tightens the left to right movement, not the up and down which is what I need. Thanks anyway.

My sunvisor is a bit loose and hitting a bump usually brings it down. Is there any way to tighten it a bit? I really don't want to use velcro strips on the roof lining to keep it up. Cheers

Hi guys. I'm looking for more pictures of this car. Can anyone help me? Cheers

Just for that are interested, I changed my leads with a set of Magnecor 10mm and the difference is unbelieavable! Starting the car the first time with the new set scared me. I pumped the gas with about the same pressure as I would normally and the engine came to life with a great big roar revving out like you wouldn't believe. My old leads were really really bad, some not even making full contact! The guys that fitted the leads were a great bunch and yes, I know it was expensive but well worth it and they even came with a 10 year warranty. Haven't tested the resistance yet but I'll do that this weekend and post up the results.

Hi. What price range/condition are you looking for?

It is the obvious but not the only solution. What I'm dreading is buying new leads and finding that I have the same problem. It could be an earthing problem in the end but I don't know how to prove or test it. So is this right: my leads have a lower than normal resistance therefore more volts are running through them which is causing the arcing? If not then: leads have small cuts which is causing the arcing and lowering the resistance. Is that possible, could cuts and poor dirty connectors lower the resistance of the whole lead? Thanks for your lengthy explanations guys. Much appreciated.

“The amount of current flowing in a circuit made up of pure resistances is directly proportional to the electromotive forces impressed on the circuit and inversely proportional to the total resistance of the circuit.” So which one of you electrikiti minded people can simply explain ohms law to a simpleton (read: me)? What is the relationship of the resistance to the circuit? Reason I ask is my leads. I noticed last Tuesday night that they were arching and after having a chat to a mechanic today he told me to check them with a multimeter. Wanting to learn something instead of open my wallet for others I went to buy one and borrowed a newish set of leads off my friend to use as a comparison. From what the mechanic told me the leads should have 3k to 4k ohms per 11". My coil lead is about 10" and measures in at 1.59k ohms. I checked other leads taking into consideration the length and they were all 1/5 to 1/8 of what they should be when compared to the control set of leads. Anyhoo, what do the ohms tell you and can someone possibly compare the ohms in another application so I can understand a bit more about leads? Thanks guys:classic:

Thanks Brett, I'll check them out this weekend.

ROFL I'm stunned and don't know what to say Rick. Sick sick man:finger:

Brett/guys, Unfortunately the belts are not approved for road use so they are almost useless to me. I'd keep them but it's alot of money for very little use in the end so I can't justify it. Where did you see those Sparco belts Brett? Anyone else know of any approved latch type harnesses? Which country approves them is of little importance. They can be from USA, UK, Japan, Aus etc. The following will mean nothing to most of you but these are the standards: FMVSS (USA) ADR4 (Aus) JISD640 (Jap) NZS (NZ) AS2596 ECER16 (not exactly sure about this one) VS Cheers

ROFL I didn't need to hear that Gav:cry: but thanks all the same.

I'm going to the meeting this tomorrow so I'll check out his car there. It's a good idea to leave them in because I have a feeling I'll really get sick of having to strap myself in every time. I spoke to the RTA tech line just now and they say that it's all up to the engineer and the more important thing is the mounts rather than the belts. Obviously a racing harness will be stronger than the original belt so there shouldn't be a problem with that. The mounts are the x factor here and they have to be done properly. So, all belts are ADR aproved as long as you can get an engineer that will aprove them. Guys in NSW, for future reference you can call the RTA techline on 1300 137 302 and they should be able to help you with these sorts of questions rather than us guessing blindly. They've been extremely helpful to me over the last few months.

D'oh, they might not be ADR aproved. I just spoke to the guy I bought them from (Rare Spares) and he thinks they are only for the track. He did tell me to speak to my engineer though as he wasn't sure.

Thanks, some good info there. Brett, I'm not 100% sure about ADR's but if they are sold at a shop they ought to be. That's just my theory though and it's most likely wrong. I'm making some calls now so hopefully I'll have an answer by tonight. I need them to be ADR aproved as well as the engineer has to pass them. If they are not I'll still use them but leave the lap sash belt as well. Mick, mine are stamped (hole punch on the tags) August 2003 so they'll be good for another couple of years.

I envy your patience (of which I have none) and persistance (ok, I've got plenty of that but still...) Your Z will come around Hayden. I'm on the lookout for anything suitable so you have at least one agent in the East.

Looking good Rick. :classic: No pressure or anything but.... ...more pics please:cheeky: /sits in the corner waiting for more pics

Try TNT. I got truck freight for $250 from Brisbane to Sydney. It was a depot to depot service under a tarp. A full enclosure costs a little bit more but is not necessary imo. They write up a pickup report (scratches, dents, faults etc) and check the car at arrival against the report. Good service overall.

Fantastic. Thanks for that.:classic: Nice harness. I was looking at the Simpson ones but they are a bit overpriced in Australia. For US$45 that's a good score! Anyone else got any ideas on mounting positions for the shoulder straps?

Chris, I wouldn't let myself near a car with a drill. Bad things can happen. That and the fact that I've fitted a total of 0 harnesses and wouldn't know the correct mounting rules means I will definately be seeking expert help. I've also got an engineer inspecting the car in two weeks and if he doesn't pass them, well, it defeats the purpose. Geoff, I got the pair for $320 from Rare Spares. I think they are normally $200 each but don't quote me on that. They are SFI Spec 16.1 so CAMS will pass them for whatever application.

Good point Chris, wouldn't want my spine shrinked. I'm short enough as it is. I'll leave the mounting up to the experts though.

After doing some tests on my current seatbelts I found that they are very dangerous as the shoulder strap sits too low and past my shoulder edge and below my H point. Simulating a sudden stop my body slides off the seatbelt towards the left. Not the desired effect. Rather than fixing the current x amount of year old belts I decided to buy a racing harness for both the driver seat and the passanger seat. I settled on the Racers Choise Inc (RCI) 3" 5 Point Latch type belts. Btw, Brett, they are on sale now from Rare Spares if you are after a set.