lady24d

Pulled most of it out. Hood still isn't lining up quite right yet so a little more tweaking needs to be done. I'll really straighten it when I get around to restoring her

Well here is the inside damage I'm gonna have to use the old come-along and a stationary object trick to help pull out the damage while hammering since I don't have access to either the school shop or work and my boss is on vac.

yeah def. true the fender is not bad just a little pulling and hammering. The lower valence is pretty wavy but should pound out straight. I just didn't need this extra work right now since I'm working on my 300zx in class now, so this will be a home in the little garage project. Just glad the girls were all ok plus got to meet some pretty sexy girls even though I felt bad but her car was not bad, cracked bumper thats it. Thats why I thought it was kinda a **** move for the officer to hit me with a fine so now I have to see what the judge thinks. Just to lower the fine would be ok with me. I'll take some pics as I repair the damage.

maybe but for how spendy those are and getting harder to find i'm glad I didn't have it on. It moved the radiator support a little about 1/4" or so pushed in. Radiator never hit the fan and did not get damaged. The metal around the inside of the headlight is a little pushed in. once I get everything off, Hammer and dolly everything back straight take measurements and put the other fender and hood on. The front rail looks like it never moved, no fresh paint flaking or wrinkles but I'll put in on the frame rack in class just to make sure. Pass. door opens fine without hitting the fender so I know back of the fender didn't move much it really didn't hit to hard maybe around 5 mph or so when I hit her. But yeah the bumper might have helped out.

This young girl stopped abruptly and I slammed on the brakes but did not have enough time and bammm tried to swerve out of the way so I caught the corner of the Z. Thank god I have some extra 280 fenders and hood since I have basic insurance on her right now but that will be deff. changing soon. and I just got her running good!! here are some pics of the 240 its not bad could have been a lot worse. ohhhh and the officer hit me up with a $120 fine for following to close. I looked at him and said did you see how long the skid mark was??? So I might have to fight that one in court ugh!!! anyway thats what I unfortunately did to the Z today.

I was thinking about that also. Been looking around for a rebuild kit and I'll need to hit up my local machine shop and get a quote from them for the re-bore and valve job. With the n42 head will having the FI holes effect anything.

I believe i just answered my own question after months of research it was right there in front of me. look for a f54 with p79 head 81-83 280zx which will have flat top pistons, then put a higher cam in, n42 head on and mate it with a t5 trans. Having a 10:1 na ratio is def. something I could handle for a fun street car. Could go to the turbo model motor but I'm starting to really like the old school L series carb sound,

I am having trouble finding out which direction I should take. I have a 1973 240z and I also have a complete 76' 280z motor. n42 block with dished pistons and n42 head that I am planning to put in the 240. Question is should i use the n42 head with the su carbs or should I put the e88 head on the n42 block with su carbs. I also have read that maybe I should source an f54 with flat pistons and the n42 head. The plan is low cost and a fun street car maybe a few road track days but mostly a fun street car to drive while I slowly restore the body. With the low money in mind and since I have the 2.8 motor would it be worth settling for the n42 block with either the n42 or e88 head and carbs since I have it already or start looking for a f54 motor. Any input or advise would be great. Every post I read either on here or on hybridz all give great info but they get so side tracked it hard to read through them .

Now that is looking sexy!! Can not wait to get working on my 73'

Yes I know its a shame to part out yet I would much rather part it out to make another z get up and running or give it something that was missing or damaged I would never just throw this into a junk yard to rot

mmmm thats interesting well I got it to start again today by messing with the tach, Fired up and got to move it on its own so I know at least reverse and 1st gear works couldn't move far since I am pumping out of a gas can. Well I noticed a lot of coolant coming out under the intake manifold, the gas tank is severely clogged and has 3 rust holes, so since my whole idea with this car was to get it running with as little money as possible and sell it. I have hit my limit that I am willing to spend on it trying to get it running so I could sell it. I will now be parting this car out, the body on this car is pretty rough so I am gonna salvage all I can, I'll keep the bottom side of the motor to use on the 240z, Keep your eyes peeled for some parts on the classifieds.

sorry about that but I have no idea what I did but it finally started and ran for a couple minutes then stumbled and stalled. I pulled the tach out and everything was hooked up so I am assuming there was a loose connection somewhere. but now she wont even start and I am assuming the cold start wont dump fuel in cause its not cold so either the mysterious connection is loose again or I have no spark but I'm calling it a night. Thanks for the heads up on the tach that might just be where the problem is.

I looked once more and it seems that when I ground pin 31 the injector on 6 clicks and sprays fuel so that's def a good sign now I just don't understand what's going on here, thinking it could simply be the relay switch

just went out and tested pins 14 15 30 31 32 and 33 which run to all 6 injectors, grounded the pins with key in the on pos. and got injector clicks on 14 31 32 33 but not on 15 and 30 which is cylinder 1 and 5, now I tested cylinders 4 5 and 6 injectors for power at injector plug and they all have 11.8v. 1 2 and 3 I have not pulled the inj. plugs on yet to test but did a test at the ecu and all injectors have power going to them. so with the no clicks on 15 and 30 pin would this indicate both relays are faulty? Would this short out all injectors.... on a side note I have the injector out on cyl. 6 (yet still hooked up) which is one that clicked when grounded. when I turn the engine over this injector does not spray fuel so its like all 6 are shorted out

This is exactly what I would do if a cyclist did this to me. <iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/X975EVV3Egg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Well I got the used ecu today and no luck so back to the drawing board. Going to recheck the wires and such if I can't solve the issue the bottom side of the motor will be going into the 240z and the rest of the car will be parted out or sold as a parts car. This car needs to move out of the parking lot soon. Any other tips would be great

THANKS!! that was it... loose connection, after cleaning the connections up it fired right up and ran somewhat nice still will need to tune the carbs but she is up and running. I even took it for my very first short test drive Can not wait to get this car on the road. Also noticed that I am not getting coolant through the radiator. I'm gonna have the rad. flushed this week and take a look at the water pump.

The mechanical pump will take a little cranking to get your fuel lines and the fuel bowels filled after being parked for a while the eclectic pump was added to help against vapor lock. But should help this problem since it pumps right away vs having to crank the motor over and over to get fuel up to the carbs

Now I can't even get it to idle or start very good. if I hold the key down in the start position and keep it there it will run but as soon as I let go of the key it dies. Got it to run for about 5 sec then shutters and dies. The pump has constant power when the key it either in the start or on position. Adjusted the float bowls to spec, carbs are free of debris. I am getting full pressure out of the pump and around 3 psi out of the regulater. thinking maybe the timing is off or maybe a couple fouled plugs. Also I caught the throttle opener and disconnected that and pluged the Vacuum ports

disregard the last post about the manifolds found out those are smog ports. Since I am not worried about passing smog tests can I just block them off

Update: I installed a fuel pressure regulator and got the psi down to 2.5-3, checked both floats and they checked out, started the car and it runs but idels very fast I adjusted the idel screw which did make a difference yet is still ideals fast. I turned the nobs on the bottom all the way shut then turned them 2 1/2 turns back, she is running very rich and when I turn the throttle it bogs down and almost cuts out then back up to fast idel. I am gonna order that dvd to learn how to adjust the carbs so I am not just messing around and not getting it right. For now I am happy I got it to fire up and stay running. One another side not I noticed 4 holes in my exhaust manifold that are threaded and goes directly into the exhaust port on the engine. I have no idea what was bolted on there, here is a pic of one. the red circles and arrows are where the holes are drilled out on mine, do I just cap them off....

leaning as I go yeah from reading and looking at pics I found out I have no heat shield and the springs attach to that which would explain why all of a sudden bam full throttle like I said I jumped the gun and got a little to excited to hear her run. I am gonna slow down and get a FPR tomorrow to get the pressure down to around 3psi. check the carb floats, make a quick heat shield to get by till I either find one or make a nice one in my auto body class. I'm not sure if I am gonna order a mechanical fuel pump or not since I already have an electric one. Might just make a filler plate and take the original pump out. Just thinking for the future I might do a trip carb and if I read right most people are installing an electric pump anyway or running both if the car had/has vapor lock issues. Also gonna pick up an extinguisher just in case lesson learned on that one!!

Thanks! yeah I have been there and read through their site and I am considering getting the vid, watched a few great vids on youtube also which gave me an understanding on how the su's work. helped out a lot

inspecting the rear carb and the needle valve in the float works fine. also noticed that the dampener does not have any oil in it. what type of oil do I use.

ok thanks I'll look into that tomorrow morning, I am pretty sure my great thinking on the fuel pump is flooding the bowls or the needle valve is sticking, I am thinking of going somewhat original so I am getting a new mechanical pump next week. I am sure not going to start it with that other pump unless I connect an in line fuel regulator. What happened was when the engine stated to rev I shut it down and it backfired through the carb and since the breather hose was dripping fuel it started on fire. Ugh Sometime I hate working with fuel issues