70z4fun

Quick update. Got the car started by filling the carb bowls. Moved it in the shop. While it was running, the fuel filter was getting some gas. I decided to replace the fuel lines again, based on what I have read on this forum. Going to go with metric braided hose with new clamps. The current fuel pump on the car Kyosan Denki. IS there a rebuild kit with replacement diaphragms? Maybe the fuel pump is ok?

Thanks for the information. All fuel lines are new and tight. Any idea who the manufacture of the fuel pumps that Z Depot or Motorspots are selling these days?

Thanks for the replies, No problem starting if I put gas in the bowls. The fuel pump is not filling the fuel filter. I just dropped the gas tank and replaced the lines a few years back. I would be interested in one of those fuel pumps...... everything online seems to be an off brand......

So, here I go again.......... It's fuel pump time again. I parked my car for the winter, and I have moved it a few times during the winter, going from one garage to another.... So, yesterday some construction work was being done at the house, so I wanted to move the z out of the way. It sputtered so I just pushed it out of the garage. When I went to put back in, It would not start. I thought it was cold, so I changed the plugs and tried again. Nothing. Cranks over fine. So I pulled the fuel line off the fuel rail and no gas came out after cranking it....... Fuel filter looks empty.......... So, is there a good fuel pump available now days? I few years ago, I got a GMB fuel pump and it failed on the first ride...... Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Howdy, Going to do my rear struts and thought I should think about my half-shafts. Currently running the original half shafts that I have replaced the u-joints awhile ago. I have a spare set of half shafts, so wonder if I should find someone to rebuild my spare set or should I switch over to CV joint driveling? I guess two questions, which is a better option? IF I was to send out my half shafts to be rebuilt, where is a good place to duo that? Any advice is greatly appreciated Enjoy Bob

so I went with the 15" wheels and 205/50-15 Falken tires. There seems to be a few different options available in that size, so I thought I would give it a try. Tires are on order, so hope to see them on the car by the end of next week......

So I reached under the driver side of the dash with my 8mm open end wrench and I was able to remove the gauge. Opened it up, and the faceplate had come loose and stopped the needle from moving. With the faceplate removed, i tested the gauge and it worked fine. I need to "glue" the faceplate back on, since the plastic "o ring" that held the faceplate and clear gauge cover on is what failed. Any thoughts on the type of glue? I was thinking CA or Ducco Cement. Thanks

so, you can get that gauge out after removing glove box? I have done that for the clock, but not the other gauges. That would be way easier 😉

Double checked the wiring, and everything looks good. Looks like the gauge needs to come out. I assume the best way to get it out is to remove the center heater control and center vent? I will check around for a spare and send this one off to get repaired. Any advice on removal is appreciated. Thanks

Thanks for the advice Is there any other place to check for wiring issues besides the contact at the thermostat? Seems odd that it just stopped working after all these years/ I would hate to change it out and have the same issue. Maybe I should strip the wire at the connector and check before I start to remove the gauge. Not sure if there is another connector besides the one at the gauge Thanks

cool, I will play with the calculator Which Falkens in a 205/50-15 do you run?

Finally got some 15x7 Konig wheels for my series one 240z. I have 14" 280zx wheels mounted with some Kelly 195/60-14 tires. I was looking at the 205/60-15 or a 205/55-15 for the new wheels. I am thinking the 225/50-15 is not much of advantage, since there is not that much out there in that size either...Any experience with current tire options? I even thought about a 195/60-15 Goodyear Eagle, but that might be too weird looking on the car? I know there is not much out there for performance tires, looks like just summer touring tires.... Any thoughts or advice is greatly appreciated. Excited to see the wheels on the car....

Howdy, Drove the z yesterday, and no water temp readings on the gauge. So I checked the connection on the thermostat and all looked good. When I got home, I took a jumper wire to the wire to the sender to the shock tower, turned the key, and nothing. So I am thinking my gauge is bad. Did a quick look on eBay, not much there for 140lb gauge. My question is, can these be repaired? Is there someone fixing all 240z gauges or am I just going to be looking for another gauge? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks

Hi there, Do you still have the carbs with manifold? I assume it includes the balance tube? I am over in Central Oregon, so we can arrange something or ship Let me know' Thanks Bob

Thanks for the information. No problem taking the wheel off, I just did not want to mess with the undercoating inside the wheel well Any thoughts on the stainless tank straps that some vendors have available? I could clean up mine, but stainless sounds nice.....

Thanks for the feedback. Got those rubber boots and other things ordered. So, do I need to remove the inner fender panel to install the tank? Looks like I can install the filler hose flange underneath and then push up the new flexible hose to the filler flange. I can see this panel coming off easily, since the undercoating is think, and the screws look small.....

Greetings all, Happy New Year I finally pulled my gas tank out of my series one car. I noticed a few things that I don't have answers to, so I thought I would post here: Video Player is loading. Play Video Replay Unmute Current Time 0:19 / Duration 0:19 Loaded: 0.00% 0:19 Stream Type LIVE Seek to live, currently playing liveLIVE Remaining Time -0:00 Playback Rate 1x Chapters Chapters Descriptions descriptions off, selected Captions captions off, selected Audio Track Fullscreen This is a modal window. Beginning of dialog window. Escape will cancel and close the window. Text ColorWhite Black Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta CyanTransparencyOpaque Semi-Transparent Background ColorBlack White Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta CyanTransparencyOpaque Semi-Transparent Transparent Window ColorBlack White Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta CyanTransparencyTransparent Semi-Transparent Opaque Font Size 50% 75% 100% 125% 150% 175% 200% 300% 400% Text Edge Style None Raised Depressed Uniform Dropshadow Font Family Proportional Sans-Serif Monospace Sans-Serif Proportional Serif Monospace Serif Casual Script Small Caps Reset restore all settings to the default valuesDone Close Modal Dialog End of dialog window. 1. On the fuel gauge wiring, there are four wires there, with the two going to the fuel sender unit. What are the other two? Looks like there are three mounting holes near by, so did they wire for an electric fuel pump? Can't think what those wires might be for? 2. In some of the posts about getting the fuel filler hose out, they said something about a panel that removes in the right rear wheel well. I don't see that on the car? Is that something the later year cars have? Or is the undercoating covering some screws? 3. The filler hose is mounted with three screws from underneath. I am wondering if using a hex bolt might make it easier when someone removes them 40 years from now? I know that makes it not original.... 4. What type of hose clamps would use on all these vent lines? I have some original wire type, but was thinking stainless clamps might be a better option? 5. Any thoughts on where I can get the black rubber caps for the fuel level sender? 6. Any tips for running the vent lines and reinstalling the tank? Got all my hoses all ready,Getting the tank done by a local radiator shop that seem to be familiar with these tanks. Thanks again and I welcome your advice

Thanks for the feedback, Interesting thought. I didn't think about the fuel tank since the fuel filter looks clean and it has fuel in it. But I am not in the engine compartment when it happens 😉 Is there a way to look inside the tank without removing it and see anything useful? I also was not aware there was a screen at the tank end. I have never yanked the tank since I have it, but alway "think" I am in good shape since I use ethanol free fuel. I would think if I am going to pull the tank, I should plan on doing the sender and hoses. I did do the evaporation hoses many years ago.

Greetings all, So, a quick overview. I have a series one 240z, which is basically stock. It does have a updated coil, but still runs points and stock fuel pump. I have had this car for over 40 years, and it has been reliable over the years. I don't drive it as much as I should, but over the last few years, it has had the periodic power loss, then dies. It "feels" electrical, or like when half a bank of cylinders goes out on a newer car, just losses power then it just dies. I can restart it after a few minutes, but have had no luck fixing the issue. When it first happened, I changed the points & plugs, then it happened again, and I replaced the condenser. Ran fine for the next few hundred miles, then acted up again. Checked the carbs, switched the coil. Ran fine again for awhile, then it happened again. Changed the fuel filter and pump, Filter looks clean and always use ethanol free fuel. Well that was it's own episode, after 40 miles, it died, and was not pumping fuel ( bad fuel pump) and replaced it with the old one, and it started back up, ran fine for another few hundred miles, then on my way to work yesterday, it did it again. Got it started, got to work. Ran fine going home. So, looking for solution. I am thinking I should rebuild the carbs, maybe it's the spark plug wires? Maybe the fuel pump? Just guessing at this point. I can't make it happen on demand, and it does not do it when I get it started. I thought maybe it is starving for gas, but it always restarts. So, looking for some other suggestions that I am not thinking about. Car runs great when it's running, so not sure what would cause it the loss of power. IF it was a newer car, I would think computer issues...... but it's a 1970 240z........... Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Enjoy

So, I got a new Delphi mechanical fuel pump, and finally installed it. Drove about 20 miles, and the car died. Checked every thing, and found that there was no fuel. I put the old fuel pump in, which has been in the car for years, and the car started up after the carbs got fuel. Checked the pump, and it looks identical to the GMB fuel pump, and the Delphi looks identical except for the Delphi written on it. I checked to see if there was any suction after removing it, and there was none. Just a heads up, kinda of a bummer........

Just curious to what drivability issues come along with a failing fuel pump? The mechanical fuel pumps have been around for a long time, and I know some leak oil. But what type of problems creep in with a bad fuel pump when driving? Thanks Bob

I think we have two of their pumps here, but they are new, I assume that is no use to them or you?

Ok, I have a front suspension from a donor car that I have had for over 20 years. Taking it apart, and I noticed the rotors are original. Should I keep these old rusted rotors for any reason? I know there are a ton of aftermarket rotors, but does Nissan even sell them anymore? Would the original rotors make any difference to someone restoring to original? Hate to just recycle them if they have some use ...... Any thoughts

Howdy, I was playing with cleaning up my steering wheel, and when I removed it, I noticed that there was no screws going from the horn insulator to the steering wheel. There was a spring under the insulator, and the horn works, so I am wondering if the two screws are needed? I assume it is correct that the spring goes under the insulator then the washer and then the nut? i IF I need to replace those screws, what is the size? I looked at the reproduction part that motorsport has, it has the two screws, spring and insulator. If you screw the insulator to the wheel, does it still have spring feel to it? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks Bob

Ok, Got one of those Diablo blades for the sawzal, and it was off in 10 minutes. I spent way to much time hammering and soaking..... Thanks for the advice. Now I can proceed.......