lapriser

I have a 3d scan of the front strut and spindle housing if that helps at all. I also have a damaged front passenger you could have but it's still on my parts car and could be a couple weeks before I can get some time to remove it.

I have done the hatch seal twice while on the car. Wasn't too bad but had someone on the outside pushing down on the glass slightly when needed. I did one hatch seal on those X shaped saw horses while pulling the string down towards the floor which wasn't too bad either.

@foosman I will take it. Sending you a PM

Is this still available?

I have lowering springs so there really isn't any spring compression when the car is in the air or when the strut assemblies are not mounted.

Oh my goodness! That's truly impressive. Curious if anyone would know why there's a lock cylinder in one of the front fender emblems?

https://www.zcar.com/threads/how-to-s30-door-lock-coat-hanger-repair.308946/

Cerakote for the locks could be a good option

The way I modeled this was based off my own interpretation and I chose to place the flange on top to give more surface area support for the insulator as well as to let the bump stop seat all the way into the spring perch as it does in the stock setup. Given that the stock struts do not have a flange and are fine with the contact area they have I can see why the koni engineers would say either way is fine. I chose mostly based off the way the bump stop seats but if you have a different bump stop the results may vary. I've had these installed for a few months now and have done a fair bit of driving and they have been wonderful!

My shock and nut are on their way to Koni USA now as requested by Koni and MSA

I think Koni Lee and others have been helpful and responsive throughout this thread and I'm thankful we have quick responses direct from the source. The top nut situation seems to be limited to a handful of cases from what I can tell including my own. I have since installed 2 more Koni struts with the supplied nuts without issue. I think the number of potential cases we've seen could be attributed to either a bad batch of hardware, user error, or just plain bad luck, and from Koni's perspective it does not look like a widespread problem considering the number of struts they've likely sold at this point. Upon removal of my old struts I noticed my KYB struts also were held in with nyloc nuts as well. This appears to be the industry standard for quite some time. I genuinely believe I had a bad nut and wrenched on it a bit too hard while believing the nyloc part of the nut was causing the resistance. I've never used a nyloc of this size before. I am glad we are documenting this to show the importance of careful install and knowing the potential issues that can arise from the different aspects of these struts (small thread size/D-shaft, over-torqueing, power tools, etc.)

I was able to redo install of the front strut with the one I have remaining. I also completed the rear strut on the driver side so half the car is now done. Install went perfectly and no issues at all with the supplied top nut. I am installing a few other adjustable suspension components so I won't have it back on the ground for another week or so but I am very excited. Here is an updated Cross Section with the edited bearing for clarity. I've also created a file for a longer strut adjustment knob that I am looking for a place where it can be readily downloaded and 3D printed if you wish. I will post when it is live.

Updated with another screenshot. Thank you!

Hey guys, I was thinking about drawing up some Datsun Specific instructions for these. Is that something anyone would be interested in? I started modeling some reference 3D files for my own sake. Can anyone confirm this is the stack up for the fronts?

@KONI Lee @Joseph@TheZStore Thank you for your responses and I appreciate the comprehensive explanation. I will be sure to be more cautious when installing the next ones and am super excited to get these installed and on the road. These seem like genuinely good products and though this instance is unfortunate hopefully it at least helps prevent something similar from happening to someone else. Thank you, again, for your response.

You are right, I see it now on page 7. I thought I read through the thread fully but it's possible I read through a different thread somewhere else or browsed through this one too quickly. Thanks for the heads up.

Hey guys, I'm wondering if anyone has had any issues with the top nut stripping out or crossthreading? I installed the strut with no issue which involved hand threading the supplied nylock nut until it hit the plastic locking section, then tightening by hand with a socket wrench. I realized I forgot to put the bump stop into the assembly and began unthreading the top not and it eventually froze up and would not move. After some creative clamping and a lot of force I was able to remove the top hat assembly but the threads and adjustment knob on the strut are destroyed. The adjustment knob does not move and the strut seems to have lost its dampening resistance. I am a little baffled about how this could have happened so aggressively. I don't use nylock nuts usually and this one seemed very aggressive. Is this a common issue with nylocks?

I've done a lot of research on fender mirrors and have kept an eye over on the japanese auctions through Jauce. Looks like they could go anywhere from $200 for one up to $600 for a pair. https://www.jauce.com/search/napoleon+gt

+1 for Jauce. just bought a mirror through Jauce and was very successful. I have a coworker who order through them often.

Tried my hand at sketching over a screenshot of the teaser video. Looking forward to the full reveal!

For plastics like ABS and Styrene there are a variety of options. The way to tell if its something that will glue easily is to take acetone on a qtip and wipe it somewhere on the part that isn't noticeable. if the plastic melts then you have something like ABS or Styrene. If this is the case than any of the solvent based adhesives will work well. I've had a lot of luck with this stuff for gluing Polycarbonate, ABS, and styrene to themselves and to each other: https://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-10315-Acrylic-Cement-Low-VOC/dp/B003HNFLMY/ref=asc_df_B003HNFLMY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=257328193196&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17422983547376199163&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033288&hvtargid=pla-488800547037&psc=1 If you are fixing a crack I recommend placing a piece of plastic behind the crack bridging the two sides to give extra strength. Also be aware that if any solvent based adhesives leak out on the visible side of the crack you will likely cause a blemish due to plastic "melting" from contact. As stated above fiberglassing the area should work as well. There are also machines you can buy for "welding" the plastic back together. essentially a cross between a soldering iron and tig welding.

I believe I have an extra one back home. I'll try to grab it next time I'm there. Should be an easy one!

Which mirrors are those? I can't seem to find any images of them.

Hey guys, I'm looking into parts that would be suitable for reproduction via 3D modeling/Printing. Things I'm looking into are things like rare emblems, mirrors, shift knobs, and accessories. My current project is reproducing a set of Suichuuka "Flower" Mirrors as seen here: You can see progress on those here https://www.instagram.com/rl_design_fab I've also had success 3D printing Stainless steel Pillar emblems and would like to make a set of these rare versions which I think were on the 432 Z: If anyone has reference images for any rare parts that might be good candidates for bringing back to life I'd be super happy to hear your ideas! Thanks!