hatepotholez

Hi, I think i have a air leak on the bottom of the cannon manifold flange. Would anyone know how thick the flange is at the bottom where it shares the same mounting point as the exhaust header?

What setup are you using to measure A/f ratio? Thx! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok some updates. I installed a home depot spring to the throttle linkage. Then I sent the car off to a specialist. He got the car running(as did I) but it takes a tremendous amount of gas to get it started and then with the slight touch of the gas pedal the carbs spits like crazy. He put full chokes on and the car wouldn't start, then he started covering some of the carbs air horns while starting it and finally got it running. He stated the carbs are not giving enough fuel to get the car started. He will check if the chokes or jetting needs help. Would the idle air mixture screws prevent it from cold starting even if the chokes are on?

I'm guessing this would work as a return spring, but I would need 3. https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/lt5000.htm

sorry, 2.4

Thanks guys. they are 40dcoe151’s, Italian made. From what I know it’s a stock cam and engine is stock, I did just install headers 6-1 and a full exhaust from motorsport auto. I believe pipe diameter size is 2.5.

ok guys some good news. I got the carbs back from a rebuilder, got the car to idle at 950-1000. It needs some fine tuning. From what I am understanding there are 2 main adjustments, mixture and idle speed(throttle stop). Also I can't get the synchrometer to read below 5 and some 7. Also what setup are you guys using for the main throttle linkage return spring? I am using the 280z adjustable hook and I bought a metal linkage(don't want to use the original plastic ball rods) from that to the crank, just need one more metal linkage from the gas pedal to the crank. Does someone sell a kit to mount a bracket on the valve cover and a return spring? I was told to go to home depot and get a spring, unsure which one to get. Thanks!

any updates? Thx!

Thanks for much for the info!

anyone have a replacement for part number: 08214-83010, apparently Nissan said this was on back order.

Man these look so good.

lol. ok so ordered the 280z linkage, i’ll try it out next weekend.

lol what just happened?

does anyone make the actual rod that just goes in or the only way is the cut and weld the original? I would like to keep it with just a rod and not put a cable for now.

not that I saw, even tried with out it. 05893DB2-C96E-439B-B12F-7680EBED770B.MOV

I actually have the Pat Braden Weber book, I also have DCOE’s on my Alfa but I haven’t touch those in years. I think i might be missing the balls that go in the accelerator circuit under the weights because there’s no gas in those circuits.

Your website is such a helpful resource, i’ve must of been on the site a few times. The first 2 carbs are not squirting from the accelerator pump jet. I cleaned out the jets and removed the accelerator pump with no success. I also then blew compressed air into the accelerator pump passage and the accelerator jet passage still no success. I can feel air coming from the accelerator pump passage to the accelerator jet circuit but no gas.

Hi Guys, Just installed a rebuilt set of 40DCOE's. I can't seem to get the car running. Is their only 2 adjustments, the throttle linkage adjustment at the base of the car and the idle mixture screw by the rear. I did notice a few plugs have gas on them and there was plenty of gas in each carb. Is their any other adjustment I am missing? Also what is everyone using to block the fuel first fuel line and the coolant lines to the old SU's? Finally who sells the throttle linkage? Thanks!

do they come with the necessary frame rails? If not where can we get them? thx!

I’m not sure how early, but they are roundtoops and my Z is a ‘72. Ill try without pumping.

wow that’s expensive, i’ll stick to mine lol! Some progress, tanks out and will be send to get boiled out this week, hopefully it gets rid of all the lining and whatever junk is in there. On another note, my float bowls are at the right height since adding gas into the bowls but the car won’t start. When I spray starter fluid it immediately starts. I’m pretty sure the starter fluid is more volatile but I have the right amount of gas in the bowls, the chokes are on and i’m pumping the gas pedal. Why won’t it run?

Anyone sell a new gas tank lol!!

Thanks, I appreciate it. This weekend i'll be dropping the tank and sending it to a radiator shop. I didn't want to do this job but i'm just being lazy lol!! i'll keep you guys updated! I attached the pic, hopefully you can see the large lining flakes.

I installed a few filters, but they weren't clear. It's not really crud, more like big flakes of lining floating around. I'll see if I can upload the video.

ok good news and bad news. Good news is I think i found the issue. I ran a remote fuel bottle and the fuel pump sucked it through quick and maintained high float levels. I then blew air through the fuel line from the tank and gas was gushing out. After this I stuck a borescope down into the fuel tank and saw large pieces of the coating floating all around. This is what must of caused the fuel system to have low volume, it must of partially clogged the fuel exit port. After this I reconnected the fuel line and the floats were at a much higher level and the car was running very smooth. The floats still need to be adjusted but the tank has to be cleaned first. Ah what a sigh of relief!! Dreading dropping the tank though ??‍♂️ Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile