hatepotholez

next step is like what you mentioned. I can’t do anything until I get this fuel flow up to spec. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

sure did, unfortunately no difference. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Ok ran brake cleaner through the rail and compressed air, still getting very low pressure, low enough that it barely fills the carb bowls. If the tank is not vented properly can this affect the flow? I put new hoses from the tank to the vent tank but maybe the connections are crossed. I also have to check the lines from the tank to the pump. Kind of hard now since I have a full tank of gas. Lastly i’m going to try and get a remote fuel tank connected to the pump directly and see if that helps. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks, Ill try this out. I am also wondering if the lines from the tank to the pump are good. All lines are new including fuel and brake, even though the car sat unused for over 10 years.. The rail is original.

So I found something strange. My rear carb is not being fed fuel at times. I disconnected the fuel lines from each carb and placed plastic bottles on each line. I then put fuel in the bowls and let the car run. Doesn’t matter if it’s a mechanical or electric pump. If the front fuel line is plugged the rear will get fuel. I’m guessing it’s either clogged fuel lines in the rail or the return valve(this is not installed) or whatever that sits near the coil. Any thoughts? thx Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

thanks! unfortunately it’s still off by a lot. we pulled the spring in the needle and seat because the needle kept blocking the fuel inlet. we stretched the spring in the needle and seat and then verified by blowing into the fuel inlet pipes. We verified the floats were perpendicular to the lid but the fuel level still does not reach the tab. What’s left is the needle and seat which I ordered from Ztherapy. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile @siteunseen here’s the float levels.

yup, the front ears is longer than the rear. I have to check my needle bodies, I believe I installed both of the same size.

I brought my carbs in to work to tear them apart. the old rebuild kit had a short bodied needle and seat, the new rebuild kit has a longer body and seat. Can I use either and just adjust the floats accordingly? Thanks!

Ya, definitely won't be doing that again lol.

Ok, so after we did the complete timing chain and related parts it was running very smooth. It would take timing adjustments and I could actually hear the engine react to the movement of the distributor. We set a baseline timing based on idle and left it for the night. 2 days later we took it for a test run we got it up to 70 mph, and we drove for a couple of miles for more than 15 minutes on the highway. There was no pinging or spitting. We pulled over and I drove turned off the car and then 2 minutes later I took it for a spin. When I started to drive it I felt the car spitting around 4500 and not going above 5000. I came back home and put in a used dizzy with a used perteonix module. This is when I started having tach issues and loss of power. I came back home and parked it. Today I put in back the old mechanical distributor with new points and new condenser. I also put in a new resistor and coil. I revved the engine hard once and it went to 8k no problem. I did notice my voltage at the battery is 12.5 which I think is low. I also noticed the car getting real hot and antifreeze coming out, it is about 101F today and a slight miss from the engine. Timing is about 5 degrees at idle.

I didn’t have an air filter at all. I can check the dwell and cam lobes I did buy the distributor and pertronix used so who knows. Going to swap the old dizzy in and change the condenser and points . before I couldn’t rev past 4500 at all, now it revs to 8000. after 15 minutes of driving the car started spitting and not going past 4000. i’m leading to beleive the condenser was getting hot and malfunctioning.

So we redid the timing chain and all associated parts. Crank to valve timing was off by 15 degrees. Now she revs to 8k when she wants lol. I am still having an issue with it not getting power above 4000. I tried a used electronic distributor and made it worse so I am going back to the old mechanical one and will try a new condenser or temporarily remove it to see what she does.

I hope it’s that simple lol! I do have a aftermarket mechanical pump filter is pretty new but I can definitely try another one.

i’m having this issue where the car falls on her face at 3500-4000 rpm. plugs, points,wires, cap, condenser are all new. Timing is at about 15-20 degrees at 1100 rpm, I wanted to retard it to 10 degrees or lower but the the dist. has no more range left to turn. Car revs freely under no load. any help would be great! thx!

Your the best, thanks for this!

Getting back to this. The JDM lights have amber turn signals, is it different for that market compared to ours?

Did you ever get this sorted out, I a missing 2 of the 3.

Looks fantastic, I might get this exact setup or 16x8 with Direzzas.

KYB's.

Yup got the Vogtlands installed yesterday, loving this drop. I haven't driven the car yet but cant wait!!

Thanks!

Does anyone know the specs to the 4 black screws that hold the heater panel in place. I believe they are M4 maybe? I tried the dealer but not to my surprise it was discontinued. Thanks!

Thanks for the reply Bill. I'll be going with Vogtland's. Thanks!

bump