hatepotholez

The PO never marked the steering wheel where it was originally, now I need an alignment and want to have the steering wheel in its original position. Is there an alignment mark or something to indicate if the steering wheel is correctly mounted to the steering shaft? thx Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

back glass in only, glass people didn't have the front one so now have to wait another day.

I beleive they are the SM's

yup, changed the needles.

btw is the windshield gasket really $350?? that's crazy!

ugh tried to do the back glass, didn't go well. Will let the pros handle it.

Solved the issue with running rich, would be nice if the needles were the correct one!

@siteunseen I beleive as @cascubadude mentioned, I received a lower vin plate which doesn't exactly match your stamping and coloring. @cascubadude, I didn't know that's how it works in CA that sucks!

I'm still in the process in developing this vin tag. The "HLS-30" is not exposed aluminium, it looks to be a silver paint similar to a silver sharpie. I purchased the aluminum plate, I have a similar punch set I'm just trying to duplicate the HLS-30. My buddy will powder coat the plate to a semi-gloss. I will then go to a decal shop and ask for an exact copy, place it over the aluminum plate use the punch set and clearcoat the whole plate to give it the smoothness. I haven't been in a rush to get this done as I'm focused on the carbs and driveability also as noted before, this isn't mandatory to have as the car is titled in my name and has plates/insurance I just prefer to have it.

That's a good idea, I also might just buy the original N54 needles to eliminate that needle issue.

I don't remember which needles I installed, I didn't swap the nozzle so I'm assuming it's stock. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

The kit is actually from zcardepot. The needles were much shorter compared to the needles that came off the carbs.

Ok, made some good progress. I disconnected the choke cable completely from the carbs. The cable even when the choke handle was down was slightly pulling on the choke actuators but not by much. I started the car and it ran right away. I then proceeded to set the idle, locked in the bottom lock nuts all the way in and rotated 1 turn and then about 1/8th, adjusted the air balance screws and throttle plate screws and then high idle all per the service manual. I was able to get the idle set at 700. The car ran for atleast 15 minutes, I then shut off the vehicle and tried to restart it but no luck. I pulled the plugs and they were all black but not wet. I have atleast 18 spark plugs all black, I will clean them up and reinstall.

I have to do it, seems like the cable doesn't pull it enough. the cable isn't correctly adjusted and it's not mounted on the center console, it's just dangling in the interior. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I always manually put both chokes on at the carbs when I start the car and then pull the cable inside the car to keep the chokes on. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Should I disconnect the choke cable completely? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I apologize for not updating sooner, but I really don't have the time to work on the car only between semesters. So now that the timing issue is sort of fixed I moved on to the carbs. I bought a Gunson colortune, very simple in it's operation. I'm not sure if anyone here has used it but you adjust the carbs until the flame in at the color tune is blue. I was able to adjust the rear carb to get a blue flame but the front is rich. The car is so rich that it wouldn't start back up at the gas station. I can't seem to figure this out. I am going to check the aftermarket mechanical fuel pump pressure to see if it is less than 3.5psi. I don't know what else to do at this point. My floats are good, I adjusted the a/f adjustment by 1 turn roughly, all my emission equipment is disconnected and capped.

I did notice a wire cut that belongs to the turn signal flasher(green) I have to trace this wire and reconnect it. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

ok thank you. I do remember reading somewhere that there is a ground near the fuel tank. If I remember correctly I did screw it in, maybe the undercoating is so thick that it didn't ground. I'll check again.

No way would this even be possible in NYC or it's related suburbs without paying millions. Dream garage right there! good job!

so I got my turn signals to work, I was wondering if it's lighting up correctly. I thought only the bottom section(next to the reverse light) would flash not the upper and lower part. Also it looks like I have a ground issue when my headlights and hazards are on? If so where is the ground? Thanks! right turn signal headlights off.mov Hazards headlights on.mov

hmm strange, doesn't work on mine either. When I click on it from my computer it downloads the video instead of playing it directly from the browser.

Any takers on the weird lights?

exactly what I needed! Thanks so much

Ok made some progress. Got the seatbelts in, which has nothing to do with the lights but anyway. I found out why my turn signal flasher wasn't working, apprantely the wire was cut, so I kind of bypassed the cut wire and went straight to the flasher and then it worked. I have to fix the green wire going to the flasher. I also cleaned the turn signal switch but I lost the metal ball. Would anyone know the size? Finally my lights seem to be flashing weird, seems like there might be a ground issue I need to look into. I have attached two videos, one with the hazards on and one with the right turn signal on. Hazards headlights on.mov right turn signal headlights off.mov