hatepotholez

I did exactly what you are describing. Everything is fine once the pot is screwed down then it starts sticking. I can't remember if I always had this problem with the front carb.

I have a 3 pot, i'll go back to the Ztherapy DVD. Apparently I skipped through this part. Mark, I have not and I might not since the rear carb is working beatifully lol. I'm trying to source parts as we speak.

I believe we might have something at my job to measure the bore. Something is bent or there is a nick somewhere binding when the pot and damper are installed. I cleaned out the bore, I ran a papertowel soaked in carb cleaner through it and then cleaned it all off with carb cleaner. When its all installed this is when I have the sticking issue. It was bad and then got worse after it fell.

Ok, so handle up and nozzles down. This would let in more fuel. got it! I loosened the pot and it still doesn't drop down and get's stuck. I also rotated the pot and at certain positions the damper will go up and down slightly. Great idea. I will use a sharpie and see where it's hitting and try hitting the emory cloth in that area. for the needle does it have to be perfectly at 90 degrees? My needle is bent a little to the side but drops down into the nozzle fine. I have replacement needles, but I prefer not to change out the ones I have just jet. Thanks guys!

nozzles move pretty freely. Still not sure if I connected the choke cable correctly though.

Ok more progress. I rechecked the rear float, it looks the pin was half way out. I carefully reinstalled the float and no more leak. Now the front damper is a real pain. The damper drops perfectly into the nozzle, theirs a nice fast clunk so no issues there. The issue is the pot and the damper. I was using emory cloth on most of the areas and got it to be perfect in my hands, but when installed it would not drop at all and stick. Then I went at it again with emory cloth and WD40 and like an idiot I dropped the plunger and the pot on concrete. Now even though with the sanding the assembly goes up and down perfectly in my hand it does not when installed on the carb. When is the choke activated? When the handle is up or down?

so a little update. Car is running on it's own but only will stay on if choke is on. Some things I did. -installed a new mechanical fuel pump. -adjusted floats to be parallel to lid cover per SU DVD. -installed new needle and seats, end of line screens, fuel pipes and hoses. -adjusted idle nuts to 2.5 turns. I am still noticing gas leaking from the rear carb vents. This does happen after 10 minutes, compared to 5 minutes before the carb work. I will check the rear float again. The front damper is not dropping down. I cleaned the needle but it seems the issue is not between the nozzle and needle but with the pot and damper. Gas is coming out of rear carb's throttle area. The damper action is perfect, it goes up and down with engine vacuum unlike the front one.

Quick update, I haven't solved this issue. I wanted to know how to check for a weak fuel pump? I hand pumped the fuel pump and it squirted out fuel. I put it back in the car but nothing. I let the car sit over a month and the fuel level in the filter is near the bottom, I crank and see fluid gushing inside but it will not raise to the top to the output. I ordered a fuel pump from rockauto just to try it out.

Ok, made some progress. The carbs didn't need rebuilding, the spark plugs were just really wet. Remarkably it ran very good but at high rpms. I still have a timing issue I have to deal with I am guessing the oil pump is not aligned and I have to take it out and align it. Once the timing is done I will try and sync and tune the carbs.

I understand, the only issue i'm having is when I try to put the float assembly back in I have a slight bit of twisting that has to happen. I am unsure if that twisting action changes the settings on the float. I would rather drop it in from the top directly.

Thanks everyone for the advice. I ordered a japanese kit from zcardepot. I should have ordered the dvd from Ztherapy but was in a rush. I do have a few questions. What is the procedure to temove each carb from the thottle, how do I separate the float bowl from the main carb body and how do I adjust the linkages? Thanks!

Thanks guys, this info has been great!! Now i'm excited to rebuild the carbs!

Thanks for the reply guys. The pots drop down evenly and make a clunk. I'm sorry but how do I check the mixture needle height? Another update, took apart the rear float, everything looked ok but the float needed a slight adjustment, I believe it was sitting at 10mm high. I cleaned the needle, seat and adjusted the float(15mm). Vehicle still needed a quick squirt of starter fluid and then the car remained on her own but needed constant depression of the gas pedal to stay on(choke was fully on). A little after the car was able to stay on without pressing the gas pedal. I checked timing and it was ridiculously off but that's another topic . I ordered the carb rebuild kit and will tackle it next weekend. At this point the nozzle looks to be ok, might have to correctly adjust the carb cables also.

Thanks, I might just rebuild them as I don't know the history of them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update time, Mech. pump was not pulling after multiple cranks. So I took a syringe and put gasoline into each float bowl. I squirt in some starter fluid and the car turns over and stays on but I am modulating the syringe on the vent on the rear carb and this keeps the engine running but eventually dies for no gas. I then install a low pressure fuel pump that supposedly outputs 2-3.5 psi, when this pump is on for too long, gas overflows on the front carb from the vent and nozzle. I did not install a regulator yet. The rear does not overflow so I assume the needle and seat is clogged. I slightly hit the side of the rear float bowl and now gas is coming out from the vent and the nozzle as the front was. I then check the float, looks ok but did not take the needle and seat apart. Tomorrow I will install the pressure regulator and see if it will run continuously. Even though the fuel is flowing out of the float bowls the car still only runs on starter fluid and no fluid is coming out of the nozzle(unless I am not supposed to see it when cranking). Forgot to mention on the old plugs the first 3 were dry, the rear 3 were wet. I then installed new plugs.

No worries, thank you for this! very useful. Now if I can only get pressure in the system

Here is the "tab" that is on the damper body. This tab makes it difficult to remove the float. I had to turn the float plate almost 360 degrees to leverage it out.

Before I hooked up the fuel lines we had a remote bottle of fuel straight to the pump and it worked. I then connected the fuel filter to the the mechanical pump and lines and it ran on thrtottle but no idle this happened 2-3 weeks ago. After tearinfg apart the fuel pump and not getting fuel I disconnected fhe fuel filter on the output side and it was dry. The tank was emptied and cleaned before I installed it. How long does it usually take the system to prime on a bone dry system?

I should add that before I dissasembled the fuel pump my fuel filter never passed the halfway mark, now its at the 25% mark. I beleive the fuel filter should be full at all times?

Ok the plot thickens, I have or(had) gas coming out of the float tube going to the nozzle. This is exactly where the fuel stops. No fuel comes out of the nozzle under the dampers, bone dry. Took apart the front carb, looked decent and set the float. I followed the service manual and back out the fast idle screw and balance screws and then tightened and turned back the nozzle adjusting screw by 3 turns based on ambient temps, I also then put 2 more gallons of gas, I have at minium 4 gallons of gas. Next step, used carb cleaner to the nozzles, there was no blockage. Then attacked the fuel pump. I disassembled the fuel pump which was dirty but nothing looked clogged, and put it back together. I then removed both hoses off the fuel pump and put my fingers over them and felt no suction. Ill try and rebuild the pump and replace the internals with new parts or get a new pump.

Thanks guys, i'll take a video and photos to explain more.

Thanks! My buddy tried to remove the float plate, but looks like it won't come off due the main carb having a tab over it? Do I have to remove the carbs off the manifold to get access to the float chamber?

Ok i'll check that out. In the meantime I will look for a SU manual as I am used to Webers.

Hello everyone, making great progress on the Z. Two weekends ago we got the car running. We used starter fluid to start her up and then light throttle to keep her on. The week after I buttoned up most of the fuel lines and a quick spray of the starter fluid we got the engine running again and maintained with throttle. We tried to start it again yesterday and it started up without starter fluid. Yesterday I tried again, no luck, tried starter fluid but stays on then dies even with throttle application. We are getting fuel at the carbs, I am assuming there is a blockage from the float bowl to the dampers. Also I know for sure the timing is off but I wanted to set the timing with the engine running. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Thanks guys, i'll take a look at it this weekend. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk