hatepotholez

The WD-40 is a good idea, I can see the float when I remove the vent but wasn't sure if it was moving. I wish I had a tiny camera to put in that hole to see what's going on. I believe my front float/ plate doesn't have the tongs to stop the float from going all the way back. When I remove the float/plate the float just swings all the way back and then get's stuck, I have to then push it forward. I don't think this is an issue inside the bowl because the float will never swing that far back. Another thing that might be an issue is the pin holding the float, it is very loose. Is it possible that this pin can move back and fourth causing one end of the float to come down? So basically, I had the crank at the top mark, and the distributor at the middle of the range. Should I put it at the 10 degree mark and then put the wires on? This is of course if I have the original distributor.

Thank you DJ, I have never considered the distributor being different. It does have points as those are new and I adjusted the gap per the FSM. I will remove the distributor and check the number on it to confirm if it's original. Also I wish the lock plate was upside down, it isn't as the marks on the plate and the marks on the distributor match. If the distributor is the original one, what else would it be? One thing I did not do is remove the vaccum line. The golf tee should be inserted when the engine is running and the timing light at 10 degreees btdc. Thanks for the link. The front bowl has driven me crazy. The crazy is part that the rear carb is fine, something happens when the float is put back into the bow. Either the float gets stuck or the pin comes out on one side. ughhh so frustrating.

ok thanks!

Ok thanks that makes sense. So this would be the third mark on the crank pulley? And then center the distributor in the lock range? I am sorry i'm asking a lot of questions, new to classic cars. I hope changing the front float will fix the no gas issue, it always stops working when I insert the float into the bowl. The float might not be aligned.

I do have a timing light, but I didn't use it. I was under the assumption that if everything was at zero and aligned the car would atleast idle on it's own(granted the carbs are all set) and then I can use the timing light on it. But even then the engine won't stay on within the lock nut range.

sorry for the long post... So getting a little frustrated with the Z. I spent the last 2 days working on it, and barely made any progress. The car still won't stay on without help of the throttle and the distributor is completely out of it's range to get it running. Carbs: The front carb doesn't get gas into the bowls, I honestly don't know what I am doing wrong. I bought a new rebuild kit and rebuilt the carbs. I am getting gas to the front carb banjo but not into the bowl. The rear carb is getting gas just fine. I tested the needle on the front carb to make sure it works. I removed the float and had my friend sit in the car and rev the car up and down and saw plenty of gas come out, I then installed the float and lifted it up and no gas came out. This leads to me to think the float is the issue. I think when I install the float into the bowl it gets stuck in the up position then causing the needle to stop flowing gas. By the way I am inserting the float and then turning the plate clockwise so I can get it in. I cannot install the float/plate assembly without rotating the plate counterclockwise to get it out and then clockwise to get it in. Timing: I have a big issue with the timing. My distributor is completely off the range, by that I mean I have to literally rotate the distributor far past the lock down screw to get the car to run. When everything was aligned, #1cyl tdc, crank at the first mark, the tong was not at the 11:25 position. This is what made me drop the oil pump and realign the shaft. Here's what I did/happened: -Did valve adjustments, intake @.20mm and exhaust @.25mm. -Put cyl 1 in TDC compression stroke, checked by inserting a screw driver and saw the piston is on top, checked cyl 1 lobes and they were up and to the side. Then saw the pointer was on the first timing mark(which can be unreliable) on the crankshaft pulley looking from the passenger side. -dropped the oil pump and reinserted the distributor shaft and confirmed the tong was at the 11:25 position with the small offset pointing towards the radiator. -installed the distributor, rotor was at the 8:10 position or the drivers side headlight direction looking from the drivers side. Installed plug wires in counter clock wise order 153624 with #1 spark plug wire right before the rotor. -car still didn't run but kept kicking like it wanted too. -moved all the wires counterclockwise by 1, this made it worse and the car didn't even try to start. -checked for spark, which there was. -put the wires back in the original position. -removed the lock nut and rotated the distributor past the lock nut. Car runs and maintains to stay on with lite throttle application. stumped at this point. photos are of the distributor with the car running. I appreciate any help with this, losing my hair at this point.

Fantastic thread, love seeing old pics!! Here's a pic I found on Facebook of a 260 or 280Z in Manhattan, NY.

not to derail this thread, but I see a lot of plastic cooling parts in European cars. Scary, just scary.

Just an update. Hood is closing, gaps are horrible. The front passenger end by the headlight is raised. I am not sure why this would happen. Could the hood hinges possibly have play in them? I didn't notice any when I installed it.

good idea, Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks!

No problem. Great photo! Ok so no way I can use the right cyl for the left wheel? Looks like Wagner doesn't have the left anymore for 6/72 Z's. Might have to buy a rebuild kit then.

quick question. Ordered the left and right wheel cyl's from rockauto and they keep sending me the right side. What are the difference between the rear left and rear right? I have a 6/72 240Z. Thanks!

I'm curious to know how the shop did it? There is no welting so I am guessing you have to use weatherstrip glue and tape to hold it in place?

This is very helpful, thank you. Any help with the chrome strip on the tail panel that surround the tail lights? The PO painted over it =(

The shop was referred to me by many and they also did my heater core for the Z. They do good work, but I am assuming they don't trust the coating for the gas tanks.

Hi Guys, So I have a small pin hole in my gas tank. The local radiator shop said they can fix it but they no longer coat the inside of the tank. They said they stopped due to the coating ruining the lines over the years. Any thoughts on this? Thanks!

So some good news. I was under the impression the drivers side was closing properly, this was not the case. The lock was fully locked and would just go into the striker. I placed some washers behind the striker and with some minor adjustments both the driver and passenger closes with a double click and with 1 finger. I should have loosened the door hinge and pushed it back in the beginning. I might do this in the future. Next is to get the window frames and glass on. Also I might have to make adjustments to the drivers side door handle rod. stay tuned!

I'll check this, it might be in the open position but then again this is my first time doing locking mechanisms on a Z lol!!

The door's were taken off the body. Without any installation of the door lock mechanisms, the door sits flush and the lines all flow properly. You are right that something is off. Maybe I can adjust the striker?

Excellent, this was very helpful. thanks!

I think what I can do is, slide a bolt over the cable bracket as it is not round anymore, hit it with the hammer a few times, get it round again then insert the cable and crimp it down.

Thanks for the reply. No weatherstrip installed, or frames. I only have the regulator and window installed.