caltanian

Just getting around with my z to get the bodywork done. The valence that was on the on the car was replaced (old setup ran 225/50r16 with no rub, but was clearly tin snips cut at some point to clear), and now I suffer some tire rub while turning. Running a 205/55r16. Beyond new wheels, or a new air dam instead of valence, anyone had any luck with anything?

I can watch the vac gauge drop when I push the pedal

The only other thing going on is when the pedal is fully pushed the brake light comes on on the dash.

Pedal is gone as in goes right to the floor, no assist, no real brake function. Doesn't even really feel like the master is connected anymore. I plan to bleed them out tomorrow, but am definitely worried as to why they are gone as they are.

No change in idle when I press the brakes. Fluid levels are full and have not dropped when I press the brakes. The entire system had been overhauled within 3 years prior.

Hello all. Looking for some ideas here. After a unfortunate winter incident, my z has sat for almost a year. Started and ran a number of times to keep the engine and such happy, but as I get into it today, my once very firm brakes are totally gone. Push the pedal and there is almost no braking. Before it sat it was a amazing feeling pedal and worked flawlessly. Any ideas as to what happened and where I should start? Cheers and many thanks. Caltanian.

I went through three different exhausts before I settled on one that I like the sound of, and gives a nice buttometter gain in power. The previous owner had just clapped a few pipes together, and some sort of super turbo. It worked, but I was not a huge fan of the sound. The headers were also pretty beat up. MSA 3-2-1 headers and the super turbo exhaust. Nice sound. Little more refined, but nasty rasp. Added a magnaflow 14" resonator inline, and loved what it did with the sound, but felt it could be a little better still. Settled on the resonator and magnaflow with a slash cut chrome tip. Nice, deep idle, clean and good around town, and when I step on it, makes enough noise I never regret putting the stereo out. Part of me wants to see what would happen if I put a dump pipe behind the resonator. Kinda a two stage exhaust.. Maybe a project for another time. But as she sits, it does feel like there's a little more power. This is likely aided by having the SU's done by Ztherapy, and just a proper tune at the same time.

Zed head- Im not eyeballing the block. That TDC was found with a micrometer. So I am confident in the fact that it is. Thank you all for the help. Going to get back at it tomorrow and see what can be done.

Yep. Im going to in the morning double check that its 100% tdc, get the head torqued down, and then get the chain on the front. IF at that time, the balancer notches do not line up, there has to be something with the balancer itself yes?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4m9tctEf-4SbzFTQ0VPbTQ0clE/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hR6Ip4684fNpfuo9QZhHDLppq-yMbqwCfg/view?usp=sharing well. I know that the adjuster had popped out on me, so I had no choice but to pull the cover off again. Cover is currently off, and ready to be put back on once I know the chain is on right..

That is exactly how it sat for me. Just had no marks lined up on the balancer with the marker. I'll get some photos tonight or tomorrow to show more. Not looking forward to pulling the cover back off again. Might be able to snap one here in a few showing that the pulley does not line up when 1 is set to TDC (as measured by a micrometer). I keep fearing the balancer has started to spin.. The push is on for me, as the build date for the car is april, 1970, and My hope is that 46 years later, April is her month again.

This is exactly how I did my install. The marks on the balancer were not aligned with the pointer at the end of that install.

The engine is on a stand. Up is up.

Sorry for the slow reply, winter came back, and with it I pulled out the winter toys.. The Z had to wait a bit.. Here is where I am at. With the crank key slot is straight up and down. Surely has a woodruff key in it. I was basing the timing set on the original factory manual. When the engine was fully back together again, The mark on the tab was easily 10-15 degrees out, from the first mark on the damper. Its driving me insane. Car has been off the road now two years (injury kept it down last summer) and The hankering to drive her again is real. Im pulling the front cover all back off, and will be going back over it again. I cannot however see how its not lining up. The chain is set shiny link to dimple on crank, and shiny link on dimple on cam gear (spot #1, of three) When they are like that, and all back together, i just cannot figure for the life of me why its not lining up. This is all, to my knowledge and research original to my series one. The only part that's not is the head, but its a early E88. So i see no issues with it over the original E31. What other sources can I rely on? The thought that I keep coming back to is maybe just maybe the balancer has started to spin..

And it just looks off to me. Cylinder 1 is at TDC, set using a micrometer. Head timing set based off manual instructions. Get chain on. Get it all back together. Head torqued. Front cover on. Once the pulley is back on, i look at the marks compared to the marker, and they are no where near one another, and distributor shaft not seeming to line up properly. Been over it two times now, cannot figure where the issue is. At this point my best bet is maybe the pulley failed and i just had not noticed, or during machining the shop took too much off. I will have to measure it all again. Any ideas or thoughts for me to chase here. I would love to have the engine up running again this spring.