caltanian

Just getting around with my z to get the bodywork done. The valence that was on the on the car was replaced (old setup ran 225/50r16 with no rub, but was clearly tin snips cut at some point to clear), and now I suffer some tire rub while turning. Running a 205/55r16. Beyond new wheels, or a new air dam instead of valence, anyone had any luck with anything?

I can watch the vac gauge drop when I push the pedal

The only other thing going on is when the pedal is fully pushed the brake light comes on on the dash.

Pedal is gone as in goes right to the floor, no assist, no real brake function. Doesn't even really feel like the master is connected anymore. I plan to bleed them out tomorrow, but am definitely worried as to why they are gone as they are.

No change in idle when I press the brakes. Fluid levels are full and have not dropped when I press the brakes. The entire system had been overhauled within 3 years prior.

Hello all. Looking for some ideas here. After a unfortunate winter incident, my z has sat for almost a year. Started and ran a number of times to keep the engine and such happy, but as I get into it today, my once very firm brakes are totally gone. Push the pedal and there is almost no braking. Before it sat it was a amazing feeling pedal and worked flawlessly. Any ideas as to what happened and where I should start? Cheers and many thanks. Caltanian.

I went through three different exhausts before I settled on one that I like the sound of, and gives a nice buttometter gain in power. The previous owner had just clapped a few pipes together, and some sort of super turbo. It worked, but I was not a huge fan of the sound. The headers were also pretty beat up. MSA 3-2-1 headers and the super turbo exhaust. Nice sound. Little more refined, but nasty rasp. Added a magnaflow 14" resonator inline, and loved what it did with the sound, but felt it could be a little better still. Settled on the resonator and magnaflow with a slash cut chrome tip. Nice, deep idle, clean and good around town, and when I step on it, makes enough noise I never regret putting the stereo out. Part of me wants to see what would happen if I put a dump pipe behind the resonator. Kinda a two stage exhaust.. Maybe a project for another time. But as she sits, it does feel like there's a little more power. This is likely aided by having the SU's done by Ztherapy, and just a proper tune at the same time.

Zed head- Im not eyeballing the block. That TDC was found with a micrometer. So I am confident in the fact that it is. Thank you all for the help. Going to get back at it tomorrow and see what can be done.

Yep. Im going to in the morning double check that its 100% tdc, get the head torqued down, and then get the chain on the front. IF at that time, the balancer notches do not line up, there has to be something with the balancer itself yes?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4m9tctEf-4SbzFTQ0VPbTQ0clE/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hR6Ip4684fNpfuo9QZhHDLppq-yMbqwCfg/view?usp=sharing well. I know that the adjuster had popped out on me, so I had no choice but to pull the cover off again. Cover is currently off, and ready to be put back on once I know the chain is on right..

That is exactly how it sat for me. Just had no marks lined up on the balancer with the marker. I'll get some photos tonight or tomorrow to show more. Not looking forward to pulling the cover back off again. Might be able to snap one here in a few showing that the pulley does not line up when 1 is set to TDC (as measured by a micrometer). I keep fearing the balancer has started to spin.. The push is on for me, as the build date for the car is april, 1970, and My hope is that 46 years later, April is her month again.

This is exactly how I did my install. The marks on the balancer were not aligned with the pointer at the end of that install.

The engine is on a stand. Up is up.

Sorry for the slow reply, winter came back, and with it I pulled out the winter toys.. The Z had to wait a bit.. Here is where I am at. With the crank key slot is straight up and down. Surely has a woodruff key in it. I was basing the timing set on the original factory manual. When the engine was fully back together again, The mark on the tab was easily 10-15 degrees out, from the first mark on the damper. Its driving me insane. Car has been off the road now two years (injury kept it down last summer) and The hankering to drive her again is real. Im pulling the front cover all back off, and will be going back over it again. I cannot however see how its not lining up. The chain is set shiny link to dimple on crank, and shiny link on dimple on cam gear (spot #1, of three) When they are like that, and all back together, i just cannot figure for the life of me why its not lining up. This is all, to my knowledge and research original to my series one. The only part that's not is the head, but its a early E88. So i see no issues with it over the original E31. What other sources can I rely on? The thought that I keep coming back to is maybe just maybe the balancer has started to spin..

And it just looks off to me. Cylinder 1 is at TDC, set using a micrometer. Head timing set based off manual instructions. Get chain on. Get it all back together. Head torqued. Front cover on. Once the pulley is back on, i look at the marks compared to the marker, and they are no where near one another, and distributor shaft not seeming to line up properly. Been over it two times now, cannot figure where the issue is. At this point my best bet is maybe the pulley failed and i just had not noticed, or during machining the shop took too much off. I will have to measure it all again. Any ideas or thoughts for me to chase here. I would love to have the engine up running again this spring.

I'm not sure who made the rings, but I have to assume ITM. If i understand correctly, chrome top cast 2nd.

Well, Went around to gapping rings, and installing bearings today. Cleaned everything then installed bearings, coating them in redline assy. lube. Then took about to painting the block. Laid down multiple coats of a primer with ceramic in it. Once that had dried laid down coats of Datusn engine paint, sourced from Datsun parts. Turned out looking great, if I do say so myself.

Stock cam, Stock valve size. Pistons came from ITM. Nothing crazy, just a overbuilt factory rebuild. Not my first time building a engine, just first time building one for myself. I'm doing as much as I can to get it built quick and back on the road as soon as possible. But not skipping anything and taking time. This weekend im cleaning surfaces and polishing parts. Hope to have the pistons in the block by mid week.

Finally took it upon myself to rebuild my 1970 240z L24 engine. Nothing too wild. Went .20 over, installed new seats, valves, springs, bearings, ARP head studs, main studs, rod bolts and clutch bolts (yes. overkill, But I want to trust the engine). Finishing up gapping the rings, and installing them. Bearings and crank should be installed by the end of this weekend. The Datsoon marches on. More to come as it all comes along.

Much more likely to end up just going .020 over, as i have found a source for pistons matching same. Why the thoughts to stay with a stock cam? I have no issue spending the money for the full kit, but have read stories of many a flat cam, and that the stock springs are adequate for a stage two cam. Valid or not? I will be getting the best rings and bearings I can. As I said, this engine is hopefully going to be running for many many years to come. The builder here in town has been building engines for decades, and comes highly recommended by numerous people who have had engines built by them.

All solid stuff. The aviation sealant is a good call. Its a nervous but exciting process to undertake.

So I have set about the process of building the engine in my 1970 240z. This is my project car, no intention to ever sell the car, and want to have a fun, reliable build for weekend mountain road runs, as well as docile enough to be driven around town. The local engine builder and I have talked, and I will be getting the block work and head work done there. I so far have been building up a parts list, and so far have a new high volume oil pump, Cometic MLS headgasket, full gasket kit for the engine, timing kit, and arp head studs. Im bounding around the stage stage two cam from MSA, or isky (or are they the same anyway?), using the stock springs if they are still any good, as I have heard the ones in the MSA kit will give you a flat cam fast, as they are built for the real race cams. I also have been looking for pistions, as while i'm at it, I might as well gain a little displacement. There appears to be a piston kit from Keith Black for .030 over, but little else out there for the engine. I know that probe will custom make a set for me, but but its usually easier to just find what's available. Forged seems to only be available custom. What else am I missing, or what else would you recommend? I plan to also get ARP main studs and rod bolts. The exhaust is a 3-2-1 3" with magnaflow resonator and muffler, and ZTherapy carbs, so breathing and exhaust are fairly well handled.

seems more like the spring mechanism that is on the non locking side is given up. Just wondering if anyone has had this happen, and or what can be done to fix it. Like i said, i might try putting locking on both sides.

So I'm getting my summer projects picked and figured, and the l24 is up there at the top of the list. I have found that there is a bit of oil consumption, and some blue smoke on hard acceleration. I'm betting its rings, so I figure i'll get to working on the engine itself if its going to be apart. I have thought of punching it 20 over, and doing the whole ring, piston, timing, oil pump, bearings, the likes job. I also figure i'll get the head cleaned up, and replace the valve stem seals. I am more or less looking to see what others have done with their own L24. I have pondered a l28, but worry about adaptation of parts. My carbs are from ztherapy, have new ceramic headers for my e88 heads, currently running n88 intake manifold. IF i made the move, what's the least amount of work i could do to have a reliable, street driven car. HP is not the goal here, long term reliability is. Thank you all.

Im using the "su" oil from MSA, and my plugs are fine. I'm fairly sure air is leaking right on past the throttle shaft, as when i give it a little bit of propane, rpm changes. I'm thinking I may just pull the trigger on sending them off to z therapy.