caltanian

if fueling was an issue, would it not affect at all speeds, and loads. This is kinda a specific range. When cruising in 4th no real issues, and hard throttle no issiues. But it just starts backfire and burble at part. I'll look into the stuff on that page, but man, this is driving me nuts.

Despite my best efforts, i cannot seem to get them to run as one would hope they should. At hard throttle, i have zero issue, and at idle and very light throttle, i have no issue, but part throttle cruise just starts to burble and pop, like it must be over fueling or something. With application of carb stray to the throttle shaft, you can hear a slight rpm change, and have begun to think that its air leaking past and changing the mix for me as I drive. I have done the whole all the way in, 2.5 turns out thing, there is proper oil, they are equal flow at 1500 rpm, but they just start bogging till i push through. Could I doubt highly the dashpots are getting hung up, but its something that has crossed my mind, but how to test that, as i cannot really see them while i'm driving The car is a 1970 240z, with factory l24.

when i sit in the seat, the side that does not have the locking mechanism leans back, while the other side is locked in place, and not moving. They are very much snug and are not the issue. Its the spring/mechanism itself that is allowing it to move.

So my seats have been driving me insane. I have restored them, and love having the original look seats in it, but have had issues with the mechanism. The locking side is just fine, and holds well, but the sprung side is way, way too loose, and sags such that my back starts to hurt if i don't put something behind it to keep it from sagging back. What, if anything, can be done about this. I have thought of putting locking mechanisms on both sides, but don't know what others have done to refurbish this, and would love some suggestions. Thank you all.

Well, the spacer more looks like it was left over, as no serious damage was found, just excessive backlash. The new diff solved that issue, and the clunk that came along with it. More of a shim than anything else. I have solved every issue the car had, shy of the ratchet. Its been a silly long road, but ever so well worth it. The ratchet noise is directly linked to acceleration and coming to a full stop. Does not show up other than the first moments and the last moments of aforementioned times. Its not in the studs. They are not moving. I can visibly see and feel the mustache bar move along its weld. I'm getting it looked at soon, but cannot find any other part that would be making this noise. May end up welding the bar back together.

So i have been chasing a noise for a while now in my car. Along the way, discovered my diff was rather sloppy, opened it up, and found a spider gear spacer just hanging out in the housing. Never fully failed for me, but I'm sure it was a matter of time. At this point, I started to go nuts, because i could hear a ratchet noise still on accel and lift off. Put a jack under the diff, and started to lightly load and unload the diff. was able to replicate the noise over and over. Its coming from the mustache bar mount on the drivers side. When the diff shifts back, and up, as it would on accel, it makes the noise, and it can be felt only on that mount. Further inspection shows its actually moving up a little there, like the welds around the mount are cracked and no longer holding properly. So I'm looking to replace the mustache bar. Wondering if anyone has ever used the Techno Toy Tuning r180 bar. I already have rear control arms from them, and have been hugely impressed. I know that more noise and such would be transmitted, but I already have poly at all bushings so it can't be much different yea? Inputs and thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all.

I can feel the nose when i touch the suspension upright in the rear. I plan to tear it all apart soon, but would love to knwo if anyone has any experience in this. Thank you.

I have replaced the ujoints in the driveshaft, and will be replacing the ones in the half shafts soon. Its more a noise, kinda able to feel it. seem to be coming from the rear suspension. The noise has always been there, as im just partly into a restoration of the car. replaced the springs as well, but the noise was there before and after.

My 70 240z has a hell of a noise. From a stand still, it ratchets, about 4-5 times. Once on throttle, no more noise, but it occurs if i let off throttle, and then back on. Its not there at any other time, and i cannot seem to find what it could be. Anybody had anything similar, or ideas on where to look? Thanks.

Ended up going with a custom set up. Had a magnaflow resonator installed midpipe, and a dynomax super turbo out back. May eventually move it also over to a magnaflow. But right now, its awesome. Nice quiet, but strong idle, and good snarl at wide open throttle. I have a crazy idea to put a cutout after the resonator, have the loud but not insane level, and the quiet for the highway and neighborhood.

Never did work properly for me. Pertronix was always there, and got tuned up by a good shop early on for me.

Yes. I know that there are many threads about this. They all seem to say multiple things however, and i figure might as well get it straight. I have a pertronix installed, and a 3 ohm coil. Bypassed resistor, the car runs great, pulls hard, yada yada. My tach however, starts to bounce around 3500rpm. If i stay in a slow acceleration, it seems to track for a while longer, but then bounces, and with WOT, it just bounces around between 2500 and 5500. I have heard go back to points. I have heard get a new tach. What does one really need to do to fix this?

I have ordered a 2 row aluminum radiator, and two 2 Spal 12" fans. Would love to see some progress photos Mike W. Looking forward to having more cooling than I need.

Looking to hang a new aluminum radiator and put two 10" fans on it, as it seems they are about as big as you can double up on. I plan to put one on a thermal switch, turning on at 180, and the other manually controlled for when I am stuck in traffic, or running canyons, or a hot summer day. Looking to see if anyone has input on this setup or has any ideas for me. Thank you

Looking to replace my current exhaust system. Appears to be a shoddy header (6 into 1) with rust and flaking and a msa booger welded together exhaust. Its loud, and drones like crazy at 3k and above, right where I cruise. I'm looking to replace the headers with a 3-2-1 ceramic coated system from MSA, and the performance exhaust system. I may get a muffler shop to do the last bit however, as I am thinking of replacing the muffler with something a bit quieter, or with less drone, and a cutout at the end of the collector. Anyone ever done this? Anyone see any major issue for me here? The exhaust should still flow the same, only more muffled, the headers should provide more of a mid and low range punch being 3-2-1 instead of the 6-1. I should be able to find a muffler that lets me tuck it a little further up in as well. And with the cutout, I can get as loud as hell when I want to. Thank you for your input.

Having searched around a ton, and read a bunch of reports, I keep seeing mixed messages about SM needles. Did a clean and refresh on my SU's this weekend, and installed the SM needles that came with the z therapy kit. Nice improvement. Above 3k, she wakes up a bit more, and pulls harder. Fuel mileage is up as well. But I keep reading that they are all kinds of bad in the long run. Trying to find any other needle is seemingly very hard to do now. Anyone care so shed some serious light on this? Why would they include it if its capable of more harm than good?

I think the easier way to word it is where do i plug the wires from the defrost in? For the life of me, I cannot find where they plug in.

Done and done. It's a 1970 240z

The PO of my vehicle did me no favors with electrical. The wires behind the heater control panel are a total mess. So I am slowly working on solving what's what and cleaning it all up. For a while the blower motor worked, and now its not working for me. The wires around the heater are all jumbled up, and I would love to know where a good clear resolution wiring diagram can be found, or ideas for me. I also have been going slightly nuts trying to find the hookup for the switch for the rear defrost. They just come out of the center console, and i cannot for the life of me find where they plug in. THank you for the help.

So went out with a power probe, and started doing a little seeking. Gave it a ground, and lo and behold its bright again. The wire must have just moved strangely, or something but that fixed it..

Took off today and found that the passengers side headlight is dim. This is strange and sudden, as I have installed the relay upgrade as well as headlight upgrades, and have had no issue for almost a year. Would love to hear some ideas on what this could be a result of.

The noise is only on the moment one stops and then takes off again from a stop. can be a few noises, almost progressive in nature. The door is clearly going to take quite some work.

Been driving my z around for a while now, and the drivers door continues to be a problem. It wont close fully without a great effort. I don't currently have the weatherstrip installed, but I would very much like to get it on as well, to seal it up a little better. The creak is strange. From a stand still one hears a creak as it rolls off, and then another as it comes to a complete stop. Suspension is recently played with, creak was there before however. Any and all ideas are welcome. Thanks

The article seems to be for the calipers themselves, my interest is more in the master cylinder, as well as the vac booster.

Well, after getting several other electrical gremlins worked out, its back to the brakes. The pedal feels wooden at times, with no travel, and other times, feels a bit more like it should. I have a 70 240, so i'm aware that the original master cylinder was a different one than all the rest. But it looks to have been replaced. What could I do, without just playing the shotgun parts approach, to find out which master cylinder i have, as well as which booster is on there? Any measurements that can be taken, or other parts i can reference from? I'm going from one end to the other on the brakes (just like the rest of the car. Hope to have it a long time, so the more i can refresh the better off i am down the road). Thanks for the help.