caltanian

Well, Been working on my 70 240, and going slowly through the electrical system. Even before I replaced the fuse box, and put the 60 amp alternator on, the car would start with a jump, run just fine, and start up if tried again quickly after stopping. But leave the car for a little while, and the battery drains. Went through a battery testing this as well (battery ended up being bad as well). Would love to know what people suggest for going through and chasing phantom issues.

I may well get that mount.. But it raises the issue of what holds down the bushing on the control arm? The cross member also serves that purpose. Thanks for all the advice guys. i may try to use the awl, collapse the bolt, and re-tap the hole. I'm fortunate to have a whole machine shop and auto shop at my disposal.

Sorry for not being as clear as possible. The member that holds the rear diff bushing on it, as well as acts as the forward hold of the rear control arms is the part i'm talking about. One of the four bolts that holds that up and on has sheared off. I'm likely to go forward with the drill it all the way out, and re-tap the hole and see if that can't save it for me. The first attempt to remove it with pb blaster, and heat, and a easy out only led to the drill getting a little off kilter, and running through a thread. Hence my caught a thread comment.

So yep, as the title says, there's a sheared bolt on my 240. One of the front diff carrier bolts, gone. Easy out failed, and it seems made it worse (caught threads as well. No go. So what can be done here? I turn to you fellow z people, to tell me what to do. Much appreciated.

And its not gonna come out. So i need a solution here. 3 outta 4 is not really a solution for holding the diff busing up i would imagine.. So what can be done here. Would love some advice or ideas. Its the one thing driving me nuts on working on this car.. Thanks in advance.

Had seen that prior. I did the full burning and such to make it clean. The interior metal sleeve is not knurled out, its knurled in. There is no way to put both sides of the bushing in. It seems without "modification" i need to get the factory bushings.

Went and pulled the mustache bar today, as i had received the bushings for it in the mail, and have the nice long weekend to work on it. Burned out the old rubber, and cleaned everything up. Left the metal sleeve from the old busing in there. From what i can tell, the lip on that metal should have been pushed out, but in the case of mine, its been pushed in. I can push the bushing in on one side, but not on the other. I can take a photo if needed, but think of it as knurled in, rather than out. I'm at a loss now, as i have no idea what to do to get the bushings in now. I hear rumors there are factory original ones out there, but without a press, its kinda hard to remove the old sleeve, and press in the new bushing. Thanks in advance.

Just picked one up today. Happy to find an original part for the car. The metal part of the wheel is silver. Not a repaint either. This is clearly originally silver. From all I can gather, this should be black. I'm nto beyond a repaint, but was just wondering if anyone had come across this before. The rest of the wheel is in amazing shape. Thanks in advance.

Well it is currently not connected. Just found it to be a nice touch. There are a few reasons to connect it, and many to not. The hunt for series one parts continues. Managed today to find a series 1 steering wheel with center cap. When and where i can, series 1 goes into the build.

Well the hunt for parts continues, and tinkering on it is a hell of a time. So far sourced some strut tower bars to get rid of the body roll, some new interior trim, exterior badge parts, some worn, but original seats i'll get recovered and foamed. Also found strut and steer assemblies for left and right to get rid of the issue with the ball joints. New weather stripping is on its way, and a few of the other parts i need for some of the small stuff. Turns out i also have the hand throttle, which while its not connected now, i may try to connect again later. I hear this is a rare option. I'm doing the best i can to keep the parts correct for the period, and when and where i can, series 1 as well. The more i learn, the more I feel i have the responsibility to the vehicle to make her what she once was. Slowly buy surely, work continues. I Love the vehicle, and love getting to drive it.

Might well be.. Pm me some info. Thanks.

found a build date of 4/70 for the vehicle. Just installed strut tower bars. The excessive body roll that had the fender clipping the tire seems to be gone now (per my highly scientific hard cornering test). The weather stripping i'm sure will help get rid of some of the door rattles, but now its off to isolate a squeak and clunk on off throttle. New tires tomorrow.. The long road has begun.

HLS30-03017 would be the vin. Ordered the bushing kit from the zstore. I will look for the new steering knuckles. I suppose i'll end up doing the full suspension overhaul in the coming weeks... I plan to keep this for the long haul. Sure, she's got her rattles and such, but it can only get better. Wish i had factory seats however... I would really rather not lower it, but it seems that is a incredibly common thing, and factory springs are hard to come across. Called arizona z cars, and they do not have the rear springs right now. Might just go for the eibach springs...

Yep. it won't be an over night process, but I'm in this for the long haul. Still would love to know thoughts on the suspension, and the ball joint issue. Any and all thoughts are welcome.

225/50-16 as well. The potential of the vehicle is wonderful, and again, cannot wait to really tear into it, and see what comes. How are the arizona z car springs. The stock height is not an issue for me (being tall, its already a workout to get in and out of such a low car, especially as my daily driver is a slightly lifted truck).

The paint will stay that way for a while, while I work out the mechanical stuff. But yes, the red is the factory color. Also. There's a clunk on throttle off... Yes, I'll be replacing the bushings all over the vehicle, but what should i be looking for for that clunk?

So I'm now the proud owner of a 1970 240z. Previous owner had been working on it for a while, body has no rust, One spot of bondo, all primerd black. Brakes and steering have been gone through. She's a project, and needs some love, but its a starting point, and I could not be happier. I'm lucky enough to have access to a full auto shop, with anything I could ever want for working on it. But with this, come a few questions.. Ordered a bushing kit, seat belts, and some weather stripping. All going to be installed sooner or later (sooner more than likely) The car came with 16'' konig rims. Look real nice, and such, but under hard cornering, the fender touches the tire. Springs feel real soft. Would dropping the eibach springs in help me here, as they must provide a better feel than the now 40 some odd year old current ones? And what's the deal with my ball joints. I have come to learn that a 1970 uses a different sized ball joint, and requires changes on the steering knuckle end to replace them. Should I find a new/used one, or swap over to the quick steer knuckle? I look forward to learning, and becoming more a part of this site, and the world of Z car fans.

Based in the south bay. Nothing panned out, so the search continues. Thanks for all the advice. I'm really looking forward to finding something to work with.

because so many people lower them in scary ways. But that alone will not rule it out. It does have a new paint job, new weather striping, no reported rust, and a few other nice touches.

Photos i can take, but both cars are a ways away from me, so not so easy to do. The one i saw as i said, has the one rust spot on the rocker pannel, and one under the rear hatch (small, like a bb), but from crawling all over the rest of it, and under it, there was no other rust to be found. None in the wheel wells, none on the floors, none in the spare. I'm not looking for perfect, and im not looking for some cherry ride to get to drive and sometimes tinker with. Its a project for while im in school. The other one that piqued my interest is all painted up, claims no rust, but has been lowered, and that scares me..

I am in the bay. Just looked at the 71. Its a project, which is what i am looking for. Few parts from other 240s, but looks pretty good. Found the expected rust in the dog leg ahead of the rear wheel on drivers side. Needs a few interior parts, and a hinge needs replacing (rear hatch) Seller has a mountain of spare parts. Like i said, has that one spot of rust, and very little else. New paint would work wonders. Im going to look at the 260 tomorrow, but this is a serious prospect. No matter the condition of a lot of the mechanical stuff, i plan to go through and rebuild and better most parts. Fun car. And what seems to be the begining of a hell of a project.

Good call for the magnet. The spare tire is somewhere i will be looking for sure. Any reason to avoid the 260z. It seems they were a one year production run.

I will check there for sure. Body condition is much more important to me than mechanical issues. I can do all that stuff easily, body not as much. From my reading, there is not a huge difference between the three shy of engine and transmission. The 260 does appear to be in better shape. Im not afraid to walk away from them, and know what im willing to spend. Cant say im not excited at the prospect of such a great old car coming into my life.

Hello all. I'm currently in the process of hunting down a pre smog 240/260z for a project/fun car. I'm studying auto tech, and have acces to a fully equipped shop, as well as a machine and tranny shop. Makes this whole thing a lot easier for me. I currently have a new, and reliable vehicle, so this won't be the only one in my life. The Z will fulfill my wish to have a fun project vehicle. There are two out in my area that have sparked my interest. One is a white 71 240, PO has put a 280 hood, and 280 wheels on it, states only one rust area on a rocker pannel. Looks to be in good shape, just needs some interior parts and work. Also has a L28 motor, and a 5 speed in it already. I'll be buying another engine and tranny as well, so this is nice, but not a deal sealer. The other one i have to go look at states no rust, New paint, new weather stripping, the likes on a 260z. Says it has eibach lowering springs and struts, needs a little timing and carb tuning, as well as a few interior pieces. I'm looking at them both this weekend. I know to pull up carpets if there are any, and look for rust, battery tray as well is a spot to inspect. Any other things that I need to be looking for? Thanks all, and looking forward to becoming part of this community.