78sid

Can someone please help me with the connection sizing of these two A/C flare lines coming out of the firewall? Thanks in advance for any help.

On the 77, the car had been gone over, but I pulled the tach for a club member, speedometer, combination and turn signal switch (ALWAYS), some key trim pieces, and also the door window frames(decent shape). I also got the rear engine lift point which I have never seen before.

Thanks. The distributor is a D6K81-01 but it appears to have a E12-92 ignition module although it is stamped only as IGM-08. It has two separate connections. I think I'm going to tackle another project and just be glad it only cost me $5 dollars and some time in the hot sun.

I was at the local u-pull it yard yesterday and found an 83zx and a 77z sitting almost beside each other. Damn shame.... I've seen a lot of posts about the ZX distributor upgrade on here and on Blue's tech tips so when I noticed the ZX had a good looking distributor still there, I pulled it with the wiring. $5. When I set down to review the process on Blue's site, I noticed that the real advantage seems to be related to the limiting ballast which doesn't seem to exist on a 78. My car runs fine. Basically stock. I was trying to make it just a little better, but I'm wondering if there is any advantage to this swap. Thanks for any insight.

Thanks Zcurves. That helps a lot. The heat/burning was caused by me trying to replace the connector which broken. Not my best work. Should be fine, but I'm going to tape it up. I've had a lot of problems finding the right "style" electrical connectors for replacements.

Dude, my screen name is 78sid. It is a 78 factory ac car. Wiring diagrams are useless since neither terminal is marked and the harness will fit either way. Ive read everything Blue has written. God Bless Him!!

I've been working on some AC and heater control and plumbing issues. I'm starting to re-attach some of the wiring, and I've hit a snag. I believe the control in the picture is the thermostat switch for the AC. It has two terminals. The harness pictured has a yellow and a "blue" wire. Can someone tell me if the yellow wire goes on the right or left terminal of the switch? The answer would be great. Some insight on how I could have figured it out would be even better. Thanks for the help.

Thanks Zed. The alternator was fine. I had reversed the fusible links. Had a 50 on the 80. I've replaced that one, and I'll be upgrading the fusible links in the near future. I'll also probably buy one of these HO alternators. "Bolt on" might be worth my time. Thanks again.

Thanks, Zed. Yes, I meant the Alternator died. I'm heading to Auto Zone to confirm the status before I take any additional steps after discovering what you said about the ZXT. Kinda leaning towards the AC Delco 78a change out, but a little concerned about what I'm going to get at lower RPM's after reading some of the posts relating to output. I can handle the project itself. I'm concerned about any more amperage without making some other changes to my wiring. Honestly, I'm not sure if that is a valid concern, but it is my concern. My feeling about money and time is that I don't want to spend either on something that is not going to get the job done. If I have to spend more of either to get what I need to solve the problem, I won't miss any meals unless it's because my hands are dirty. I haven't run across a significantly more expensive solution. Unless, it involves some of the other standard upgrades to the electrical systems. Thanks for the help.

Alternator has bit the dust. I've done the headlight upgrade and I've got a pretty high amp stereo. Yesterday when running the stereo, lights, and windshield washer, the amp gave up the ghost. It was about the only mechanical component that hadn't been replaced or rebuilt. Since I'm running a higher load with accessories, I was thinking of making a change from the 78 60amp to the ZXT 70amp. I'm thinking this a good step without pushing the limits of my wiring. I've still got the OEM fuse box and fusible links. I'll upgrade those later, but I need the car back on the road, ASAP. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Good plan and step?

Running Tokico springs and Blues on my 78 with 245/45/17 Eagle GT's. I had to trim the MSA air dam for clearance but I think that is pretty common anyway. The wheels are the Konig Imagine with the opal finish that MSA was selling. The ride is a little stiff, but I think that has a much to do with the sidewall on the tire as the suspension.

Thanks and understood, but since the valve in the photo would close that circuit, wouldn't it effectively do the same thing as blocking both ends? I'm just trying to avoid draining my radiator this weekend, when I'm going to replace it in a couple of weeks.

Previous owner rigged the heater core piping so now my heater core is always hot. I can't hardly stand the heat during a NC humid summer afternoon. I'm going to correct the entire circuit in the next few weeks, but there is a shut off valve in the hose coming from/going to the water pump. I'm not sure of the flow or if blocking the water through the heater core will cause over heating. I would like to turn off the heat, but I don't want to screw up my engine. Thanks for the help.

If you get tired of the look, the Borla 40659 fits like a champ.

I thought mine was a little close to the tire, but I have 4 to 6 inches between the tire and pipe. Are you using the center or the corner (for lack of better description) inlet on the muffler? I believe the center is the intended inlet, but I'm not sure how you could get it that close to the tire using the center. I ended up suing a Borla muffler just to get it to fit better. Same design but slightly smaller dimensions.

To follow up... I ended up having a cherry bomb 12" glass pack welded into the MSA exhaust package to address the drone. To address the fitment of the muffler, I initially tried a round MagnaFlow but it was entirely to loud. I ended up using a Borla 40659. It's an offset oval muffler than sounds great when you get on it and is small enough to fit in the limited space with no issues. I did have some issues with the pipe clearance on the differential and exhaust pass under the car. It wasn't touching it when idle but I would occasionally hear a knock when I got on it. It decided to use some wood stove insulation tape. It is really like a flat piece of fire proof rope. I doubled it up and used the supplied adhesive to strategically and neatly place in the gaps to prevent the knock. Worked like a charm.

Thanks, Jim. I installed it as you have shown. I guess I just don't like having to angle it sideways to make it fit. To me, it makes it look like the thing is just crammed in there. I'm going to get some more detailed measurements tonight to try and find a solution, but the available length after the S curve in the pipe is making muffler choices very limited. There is also not a lot of room for adjusting that path without suspension interference.

I've got a 3-2-1 MSA coated header flowing to 2.5 in exhaust with the MSA performance exhaust. I've pretty much decided that to get rid of the drone and get the highway noise reasonable, I'm going to go with a glass pack or resonator in the mid pipe. My biggest annoyance though is the fitment of the muffler. After I figured out the pipe puzzle, the outlet is still too low imo and looks tacky. I'm running without a bumper so that makes it even more exposed. Has anyone gotten tired of the issue, that so many have talked about, and actually replaced the muffler with something that fits the MSA exhaust path without having to use a custom shop for the whole assembly. Thanks for the help. Sid

If I get power steering, my wife will want to drive it.

I have switched to a faux wood shifter knob, and I have considered that as the source. I'll pull that tonight and give it a spin. Since my setup also has one side that does not have a bushing, I'm thinking that fast woman may be on to something, but I also agree with her that I'm not looking forward to pulling the consol. I'll report back on the naked shifter.

Differential service and test drive through the country side. It was in the 70's here today, and it was a great afternoon for a drive.

I changed the gear oil in the differential today. Pretty nasty stuff, but no metal on the magnet at all. After the service, I took it for a spirited spin down some country roads. The whining was pretty much gone, but the chatter in the gears was still there though it did seem to be less intense. Hopefully, I'll get it resolved during its checkup this week.

I was searching for a hood vent yesterday and ran across this listing Datsun Engine True Blue/Green Spray Can Paint

Shifter is tight and feels right. 32 is there. 31 shown in the diagram as two pieces has been replaced on my setup as one piece that passes through. 30 with retainer is a tight fit. I don't know if it was replaced by PO or if the design changed in subsequent models. I can see where there might be more vibration transfer with this setup, but not as significant as I am feeling.

Washer didn't fix the problem for me so when I removed my clutch slave, I paid attention to the mating surfaces of the hose and slave. The marriage just didn't look like it was going to seat correctly. I ordered and waited for a Beck Arnley slave and hose which had obviously better surface mating. I didn't use a washer and so far leaking has not been a problem. I really think it was just the quality of the originally used replacement parts. Cheap lesson learned unless you count my time.