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Thanks so much Chad! I did more homework and I can't afford the parts that I would need to replace at the moment. I will have to pass. Thanks again and sorry for the confusing thread title.

I am getting a FREE*240z*shell. I want to put all my*280z*parts to make it run and register it.

Thanks for replying tamo3, I just researched more and you are correct, they are not the same chassis. It's a 73'. How about the suspension? Do you know if they will fit? I just want to have a 240z body with newer internals.

Good morning everyone, I currently own a 1975 280z and have the opportunity to get a 240z shell. I've read that they both use the same chassis and the difference from the exterior are the front and rear turn signals. I would like to convert my 280z to a 240z and I was wondering if all the interior and drive train of my Z will retrofit in the 240z.

Definitely a electronically noise and not a metal on metal noise. It goes on and off at every level rev of the engine as seen on the video. I tried listening to it as close as I can and it's coming from the middle of the engine bay, around the efi rails.

Good evening everyone, I have a 1975 280z which is making this electrical noise and it seems to be coming from the efi. Is this a normal noise since the car is old or is it something that can cause a problem? The car runs and drives fine, the efi are pretty responsive as well. Pls let me know you input.http://youtu.be/kOyzsGtac8o!

Sorry for the delay on my reply, I haven't had the chance to get back on in a while. The wire in the first pic is actually copper and you can see where it is coming from on the 3rd pic which is from the firewall. Also, I forgot to mention that I do not have AC and heater on this car. I am also missing a switch from the center console to the right side of the hazard light switch. The last pic confuses me because it is a inline fuse holder but the end doesnt seem to connect to anywhere nor hold anything. Here is a better pic. I don't know what the blue thing is about either... BTW I do have a copy of the FSM and Haynes repair manual but I'm just really confused so I really appreciate your help. Thanks again!

Good Evening All, Just doing some pre road checklist for my 1975 280z when I came across these wires and I wanted to make sure if these are necessary in order to drive because the car seems to run just fine. First, we have here is a lose ground wire which I'm not sure where it connects. Then, we have this wire which is just wrapped up in another wire. (see red circle) which happens to be coming from the firewall... Up next, the interior wires. If anyone can identify these wires, It would be greatly appreciated! Thanks so much!

Thanks so much for replying! Another Z owner from another forum suggested that I do this and she fired right up! "Hmmm.... you said that it used to start in neutral? Just a thought, but have you tried to jiggle the gear selector lever as you turn the key? Sometimes, if the gear selector doesn't hit the contacts just right, or if they're a little oxidized, it'll do that. " Would you happen to know what exactly is causing this? Thanks again ZohanIsBack!

My 1975 280z (automatic) does not turn over with a good battery and good fuses. Whenever it used to do this problem, it would start on neutral. Everytime i turn the key, I can hear a something engaging by the glove box and I think that might be one of the pumps? I'm not sure what is causing this but I've done some research that it has to be linked to the neutral safety switch? Can someone please confirm or give any feedback? I just recently had the head gasket replaced from being blown and I cant wait to get her back on the road! Thanks so much!

you know what Jeff, I haven't really checked that out. I'm afraid to even look since everything seems to be rust free. I will take a look as soon as possible. I did check under the carpet though to see the condition of the floor pans and they are fine.

*Update* Finally got one! Picked her up about 3hrs away, traded my Honda Rebel bobber + 1k for this 1975 280z with 30k on newer motor swap. Running condition with clogged cat, dings and dents, faded paint but no rust whatsoever. Interior is complete with a new dash and original leather seats with only one tear (size of a quarter). Barely any oil leaks. Broke down after 2 1/2 hrs of smooth driving (almost made it home) due to heater hose resting on the block which caused it to pop or maybe just old hose. Thanks to the diner that let us park all night to come pick it up the next day. Good thing NAPA auto parts is just a couple of blocks away. Replaced the hose and filled her up with coolant and started running like a champ again. Broke down again 15 min away from home, filled the road with white smoke. Seems that the a hose from the radiator came off from the coolant reservoir and other things. Fixed and ran perfect again. Made it home and friend drove it to his place for tuning and part replacements about the 1 1/2 hours away and drove smoothly.

Definitely lucky those guys are. I've seen Z's go for under 2k around here in the tri-valley area. Either "sacrifice" sale or just didn't know how much they were worth. Last one that only lasted 19min on Craigslist was a garage find for 2k. Here I am refreshing my searches every 5min.

Arghhh... Here I go again.. What do you guys think of this one? Datsun 280Z 1975

1k for running, 1.5k for decent and 2k for exceptional condition from what I've seen so far on Craigslist. I just missed a 240z 89k miles, nice interior and engine bay so clean you can eat off of it for 2k, could've got it for 1.5k probably.