geekin

the right hand drive does it run? 7k for a rust bucket that may not run is a steep. how far are you from charlotte?

so revivng the topic. finally was able to work on the car today. wired the pump to a switch and the switch to the wire on the cigarette lighter. pump runs with the switch. car still wont start. now before i started the rewire i ran a wire from the post on the pump to the battery and the car started. is there something else i need to do to bypass the circuit?

sry guys. havent had the chance to get to it as of yet. have been out of town for work on and off. thinking about tackling it this Saturday if weather permits. im free this weekend so it shouldn't be a problem. will update as soon as possible thanks

no the bolt just spins and its not in the bracket but its held up to the frame with rather large zip ties. because of the limited space I would have to disconnect the fuel lines to get enough space to get at it. but I will look into those alligator clips. probably wont try to work on it till this weekend though. thanks for the help

tried to hook up the pump to the battery but one of the nuts for the terminals on the pump wouldnt come off. got to dark to fidget with it any further. plus im working on it in the parking lot of my apartment. ill try again tmrw. thanks for all the great advice. hopefully one of these things will bring results.

that diagram wont work on a 78 cause the afm doesn't control the pump anymore. 3 relays control when the pump is on. but if previous items don't work ill pull the switch and try continuity checks

no its not my daily anymore. what is the keyswitch checkout?

so if lets say I wire fuel pump to battery and car runs. what would be the next step and vice versa?. also what would bump starting it prove? that the key switch is bad?

yup so long as I can get it working I can figure out whats not working. ill wire up the pump first then check the ignition. I haven't messed with the ignition at all. changed to a removable steering wheel setup but the ignition was left alone. still have to fix the horn though. the contact plate wasn't working well with removable steering mount. every time I turned the horn would go off hahahaaa

I have a toggle switch that I can wire it to. so just disconnect the pump and wire it to the battery? what is the purpose of the gauge and where do I put it? before or after the filter or on the fuel rail? the fuel gauge fills when I put car in acc but after I start it goes to empty. Im assuming that's loss of fuel pressure from pump shutting off.

I know the alternator is working because when I do the cold start/ start it charges the battery for those few sec. so am I correct in thinking my oil pressure switch is faulty? could be cause it was in the spray area of the coolant leak. I also did check the oil and its right bellow the full line on the dip stick. but when I get home today ill wire the pump to the battery and see if I can get it running that way. also if I wanted to bypass the oil pressure switch how would I?

so when you use the cold start plug essentially it dumps fuel in to get car started. when I do that if I rev it it stays on a little longer as well. isnt it like using ether? when I turn the key to the acc position you can hear the pump in the back and you can see the fluid in the g3 filter move. I also disconnected the hose at the filter to make sure I was getting fuel pressure when pump is on and I am. but after I start it the fuel pressure is gone. the fuel gauge on the dash goes back to empty. there is a full tank of gas as well.

last time I checked them they seemed fine. they did have water in the pots a couple weeks ago though but that happened before and it still worked fine. ill wire up the pump and see if it works. what would be the fix if it works? also am I correct in thinking that the afm doesn't have the pump shut off in the 78, that its all done by the fuel pump control relay and that you need the oil pressure switch signal and the signal that says the car is on to get the pump to stay on?

hi guys, im having a problem getting my z to stay on. I can start it but it shuts off immediately. its a California model 280z. all of the emissions stuff and cold start have been removed by po. seems like the fuel pump dosent stay on after start. the fuel pump works and I have a g3 fuel filter in line with fuel rail. if I use the cold start plug on the harness the car stays on longer but dies cause its not meant to keep car running. a little brief history of stuff I've done: efi relay crapped out so replaced it with 2 relays and worked fine for awhile. a bad battery killed my alternator and found out po did a alternator upgrade after going through a couple alternators. then recently after a couple months of driving had a coolant leak while driving and car shut off. not sure if they were related but after car shut off and I popped the hood I could see coolant spraying from the little nipple above the alternator. haven't been able to get it running since. I have used the fsm to test components and everything seems to be in order. my questions is what keeps the pump running after the car is started? isn't it the fuel pump control relay? I pulled it and opened it and it looks really clean. also my relay has 6 pins unlike the 5 pin connector that I've been seeing all over the forums so im unsure how to test it. when I get home ill take some pictures of what it all looks like. any suggestions of what I should check would be helpful. this is my first build and im lucky for it to be my dream car. thanks for the help