Premo34

Thank you for the response. Exactly what i needed to know

Year/Model: 1978 280z I recently changed the original fuel pump to a compatible Airtex model. Before the work was done i had power to the fuel pump. After the install i went to start the car and I'm getting no power to the pump. I've chased wire from the pump, up behind the passenger seat, all the way to the fusible link and the battery. I'm thinking the issue MIGHT be the fuel pump relay. Is there any way that it could have been damaged in the process of changing the fuel pump? The first thing i did was disconnect the fuel pump relay and crank the engine to eliminate fuel in the lines. I then disconnected the negative terminal of the battery before any work was performed. I know it isn't the wiring of the pump itself. i multimetered the connection behind the passenger seat and no power there. I've looked at the wiring diagram until my eyes crossed. The fuel pump harness that plugs into the fuel pump relay has 4 wires: 2 green, 1 black, 1 white with black stripe. When the harness is plugged into the relay, i have power to one green wire, but not the other green wire which I think should be the hot output wire from the relay (both green wires should be hot when key is in "on" position) Can i be certain that the relay is bad because i'm not getting power to both green wires. Also...the key is in the "on" position while im doing my readings. (on a 1978 triggers the pump on) Before i go and buy an expensive fuel pump relay ($70-$100) i wanted to bounce the situation off all of you knowledgeable Zheads. Thanks in advance for responses its much appreciated!

Does anybody have a spare fuel pump relay for sale? part number 25230-79907 Thanks Shay

Hey guys thanks for the reply....ended up finding one on ebay. Not cheap but whatever its done. Thanks again

Thanks for clarifying. I'm definitely no electrician. My guess is corroded connectors. The two connectors, c-7 and c-8 that Captain referred to are pretty green and nasty on the side where the wires go in. I did pretty good to clean the male prongs.

So I've been messing with the wires for a couple days...tracing and cleaning wires and connectors. Yesterday I did all that with no results. Today after work I try again jiggling some wires messing around. I'm not sure exactly what did it, but my blinkers work now. All lights are functional now even the dome light which didn't work before. So I've come to the conclusion that there is a short in a wire somewhere. Now, the dash lights and hazards come on only if the car is running and the red brake light will come on and off randomly when e-brake is applied. Thanks everybody for your help! IMG_3480.MOV

Thanks all the feedback so far. I'm going to work on it this weekend. Last night had time to disconnect the two connectors on the passenger side. They were almost green in color from corrosion. I cleaned those up the best I could using steel wool and sandpaper. Once i connected it all back up I had no power at the hazard switch! HAAA These cars are touchy! So ill now be investigating why i have no power at the hazard switch too. It was still kind of light outside and hard to tell, but I'm pretty sure the dash lights don't work now either. Still have headlights/highbeams/seatbelt light/brake light. Like i said ill work on it this weekend and report back.

Thanks Captain. The first part of your response completely clears up any confusion and is consistent with all of my wiring. I'll start testing connections from the hazard up to the connector in the picture. My batter is strong so I can eliminate it. One thing i should add is that i was taking the 10.27 reading while the car was off and key in ON position. I thought my hazard switch was good too. When the hazard switch is off, the hot wire leading to the flasher reads just under 12 amps. Again, the car is off and the key is in the ON position. That seems to be ok to me, correct me if im wrong. So i guess my problem lies somewhere from the hazard switch to the flasher or from flasher to the blinker connector...

He does great work for a reasonable price.

Dave, I replaced the flasher with the one you suggested, EF32. I'll mess with the hazard again tonight or tomorrow and report back. I'm not sure what else I can do with it but I'll try to trace my way to the flasher with the volt meter. Thanks

thanks for the advice siteunseen...i tagged Dave. ZedHead, I've studied the wiring diagrams. When I said Green I was referring to the green wire that the positive multimeter prong is touching.

Kira, I'm looking for the same part. It was my post that you commented in the WTB section. It is the horn contact assembly. What I am confused about is that the picture of your steering wheel has those parts already installed. What exactly do you need? I had a beat up 280z wheel which i swapped out for the 240z wheel. The wheel didn't come with the horn contact assembly. I was just recently able to find one source other than the ebay posting mentioned above. It was selling for $80. S If you need the assembly from a 77/78 280z i have what you need.

Ok guys, I've have issues with my blinkers ever since I got my '78 280z a couple months ago. I've searched and searched on this forum and others. Please nobody reply with "try using the search" because believe me I have... a lot. I know this is a relatively common problem and most threads seem to point toward the hazard switch as being the root problem. At first my hazards worked, but irregularly. Sometimes they came on sometimes not. I took apart the switch and cleaned everything and sanded the contacts. Now hazards work perfectly every time no matter what. Then I took apart the blinker switch and noticed some issues. To be safe I sent it and the combo switch to Dave (@Zs-ondabrain) to rebuild. He did a great job. When I hooked everything back up the turn signals didn't work at first but after tinkering around a little they all of a sudden started working properly. I don't know what I did, but they started working. They worked for a few days of driving, but then all of a sudden stopped working and hasn't worked since. I've replaced the flasher and checked fuses. All good. I used a multimeter to trace the wiring to see if everything had power that should. Ive exhausted all of my know how and I really need help from you guys. See pics for reference to the following: I have power at the connector when the signal lever is in the neutral/off position. When I push the lever up or down I lose power to the green wire. White wires still have no power. When I move the lever up or down that should complete a circuit to one of the white wires beside the green one, right? Instead it is loosing power completely. The copper contacts inside the turn signal are making contact when I move the lever so I'm pretty sure that isn't the issue. I'm at a loss at this point. Thanks in advance for any advice!

I purchased and restored a 240z steering wheel for my 280z. The seller didn't have the plate for the horn. Does anyone out there have a 240z plate for a 240z horn? See picture for reference. Thanks!