hagdog

Thanks for details, guys. Thanks especially, "Captain Zeros" for crawling under the car! OK, so there is a hole in the middle. That's why it does not slide out... Charles (Patcon), I will see if can PM you my contact info. Your offer sounds good. Though, I'd like to round up a bit from the postage charge for your trouble.

I am doing an auto to manual tranny swap on a 260. I am looking for details on the bracket where the hard and soft lines meet for the clutch slave cylinder. I dug through microfice and got the OEM parts for the slave cyl clutch line (see attachments). And, routed a hard line for the clutch based on pics I found. But, I have not been able to find details of the bracket where the hard and soft lines for the clutch are secured. Does anyone have a pic or a link to a pic that shows the bracket on the subframe? I have an idea of what might work. But, I'd like to see the OEM bracket. Maybe I can save a few hours of work instead of reinventing the 40 yr old proverbial wheel.

Doh. Found the inner shift boot easily at the Z-store. Maybe my luck will hold and I'll find the one for the bell housing...

I'm getting ready to do a tranny swap as well. I picked up a 5-spd to put into my recently acquired 260z with a slushbox. There are 3 switches on the tranny. I've identified the backup switch and neutral safety switch. I've been looking over 280z diagrams trying to identify the last connector. Anyone know what it is? Not sure about your radiator. My 260Z setup has the A/C radiator separate from the engine cooling system. So, I guess the radiator would be the same for auto or manual on mine. (??) Rockauto has the just about any part you will need: master/slave cyl, rubber hose, release bearing, pilot bearing, F/R seals. I needed a clevis pin for the clutch pedal which I got from McMaster (5/16" x 1") Oh, anyone know where to get rubber boots for the clutch fork/arm and the shift? I keep only finding CV boots in my searches.

Welcome! I just joined as well. My daily driver is a German car and, besides just loving Z's, rationalized the Z purchase with the low cost of parts.

Too funny, old timers. (like me) Thanks for your comments. I tell people, "I never watch 'That 70's Show'. I lived it!" More importantly, we survived it. Z's definitely stand out as a highlight. As do muscle cars and Triumph's. I don't remember the Herald but did like the TR7. The counterpoints were the gas shortage and rationing, and early attempts at emmission reductions. Each year brought worse cars to market... Gratefully, some retro gems can still be found. Good advice, rcb280z. I am trying to do just that. I am currently hunting for some missing interior pieces.

Thanks for the info! Although I have hunted around quite a bit, I was confused by the varying opinions, e.g. P79 does/does not have restrictive flow. The last thread was really useful as it showed real data and actual results. Nice work, Guy! This has me leaning towards the F54/P79 combo--assuming the parts are solid once I tear them down and inspect them.

Z newbie disclaimer: While I have moderate knowledge on performance topics, I don't have mega performance or Z-specific knowledge. Folks here seem to have mad Z knowledge and I'm looking for a handout... My recently acquired 260Z came with an E88 head and P30 block. It seems to be bone stock, i.e. flat-top, boat anchor SU's and a slushbox. Via craigslist, I got a P79 head and a P30 block. This setup came with 3-screw SU's, simplified balance tube, 5spd, and headers. With these parts I would like to figure out the best head/block combo for autocross performance. I will run with 93 octane. Most of the time I am in 2nd gear for the autocross courses that I run. I need good torque at low RPM for pulling out of tight corners and smooth response at 1/2 to full throttle for rest of the course. The following points seem to be the consensus in the Z community. P79 Head 53.5cc chamber 1.74" intake and the 1.38" exhaust 9+:1 compression ratio with an F54 block lined exhaust ports are restrictive excellent quench E88 Head 47.8cc chamber 1.65" intake and the 1.38" exhaust mid 10's compression ratio with an F54 block likely to result in detonation unless a "hot" cam is used and vacuum advance is disabled. square exhaust ports have good flow good quench Considering cost and performance, I am thinking that I should use the E88 head with the F54 block for good power through high compression. I am looking at a #155 grind on a cam which is .488/.488 lift and 230/230 duration. Will this cam be hot enough to avoid detonation and perform well in autocross? Should I look at a different approach? The .080 shaved P79 is also interesting but more pricey. I am hoping to get away with minimal machining charges in order to save up for other mods.

Flashback: Late 70's in high school. Saw my first Z car and instantly fell in love. Definitely could not afford one. Kept buying junkers just to get from point A to point B. Favorite 2 cars ever have been a '76 Celica and '02 BMW 530i. The bimmer re-awakened my interest in working on and driving good cars. Have been wanting to get a smaller car autocross. Had to be light, handle well, and be cool. Had my sights set on a different Z car, a Z3M. Again, unaffordable for a guy w/ mortgage, high maintenance wife, and 3 boys. I happened upon a 260Z that was transplanted from Cali to New England. And, I could afford it! I might have paid a bit too much for it. Maybe not. I have only found surface rust on it and tons of power robbing emissions accessories. Inspected it on a lift and found that many bushings and suspension parts have been recently updated. It's got a 10ft paint job (sprayed outdoors?) that changed it from the original gold to a newer red wine metallic. While I am currently fixing it up for autocross, I am keeping parts that get changed out and avoiding non-reversible mods. I'm deferring the decision to build a cranker vs. doing an LS1 swap. I'll cross that bridge when I save up a few grand. When I'm too old to autocross or want to do a project w/ one of my sons, I'd like to restore the Z. Though, how do you resolve the dilemmas of going totally stock vs. living w/ the boat anchor, flat-top SU's and the stock slushbox vs. a 5spd? Hmm. Incidentally, my brief time lurking here has already impressed me. The quality of available resources for Z cars is incredible. So, yeah, this summer will involve lots more research, engine and suspension work, and driving my new Z.

Congrats. Recent, new owner. This is my first post to be followed with my own intro.