fastd

Captain, Thanks for that. I pulled the valve cover to confirm TDC; I had it right. However, I pulled the distributor and found that the position was around "1:15" with the small moon facing the back. Here is the dumbest question of the day: as I move the distributor shaft to match with the 11:25, it looks like the rotor will not be pointing to the #1 wire. When I installed it before, I positioned the distributor so that the rotor would be pointing to the #1, and the shaft wound up at 1:15. What part of this puzzle am I not understanding?

thanks for the responses. I looked at the parts diagrams and I am remembering how the distributor goes in... it doesn't seem like I can be off a "tooth", can I? the shaft only goes in one way and it is supposed to be "11:25"; it can't be "10:30" or "1:00", can it? If I am not 180 degrees out, then, with respect to timing, does it have to be adjustable within the normal timing adjustment sweep? Is it more likely that I was not really at TDC when I put it in, and that may be why I may be off 15-20 degrees?

I pulled my distributor to change the leaky gaskets at the distributor and oil pump (part of a bigger job of replacing the clutch, oil pan gasket, seals). Anyway, I think I got the oil pump and distributor right but I think I may be off a tooth (or two). The car started but just barely; no backfires or funny sounds; but I couldn't keep it alive. I checked TDC and its pointing to the #1 spark plug wire... Question: Can I pull the distributor with out upsetting the oil shaft? Can I just lift the distributor and drop it back down +/- a tooth? It seems like the shaft only goes in one of two ways, either right or 180 degrees off - is that correct? To save me doing this a couple of times, any way of knowing whether I am "ahead" a tooth or "behind" a tooth. Also, I checked the wire schematic to the distributor - only shows wiring to coil; but there seems to be a disconnected yellow wire that runs from the distributor or somewhere around the distributor, through the harness around the radiator and back to the fire wall on the spark plug side of the engine - any idea what this might be to? is it related to my starting problem? Anything else that you guys can think of? Thanks, Fastd

i swapped the 240z paper one for a 260/280 plastic one and cut it to fit so that i can remove easily.

by the way, dont be too quick to cut the striking rod; nissan doesnt make them any more and nobody sells them. if you do cut it make sure you get a clean cut so that you can weld it back together. i got lucky when i welded mine back - somehow it was straight enough to use again.

now that i know how it comes out i feel like i could get it out next time. the advice i received about the hand tools i think would work if i hadnt bang on it beforehand. i ordered another pin from nissanpartszone.com using the 1979 280zx. - no problem. i think alot of the parts interchange.

now that i know how it comes out i feel like i could get it out next time. the advice i received about the hand tools i think would work if i hadnt bang on it beforehand. i ordered another pin from nissanpartszone.com using the 1979 280zx. - no problem. i think alot of the parts interchange.

Turns out getting a replacement striking rod for a 280zx isn't that easy; does any one have one they can sell me? I think the ones from 240sx, 200sx also fit.

got tired of trying to coax that bolt out so i just cut the rod.

Thanks for your response. Any tricks to get the bolt out of the striking lever? I took off the nut but the bolt won't budge; no head to grab on to; I tried heating it up and whacking the bottom on the bolt on the threads but nothing is happening...

Trying to replace the seals on a 1979 280zx transmission. Can't figure out how to take off the striking guide on the rear extension - looks like I need to maybe remove the striking lever first and maybe the whole striking rod will slide out...? But I can't get the bolt off of the lever; does the guide disconnect another way? Thanks.