Hodgimus-maximus

Where is this hidden release cable, I’m asking for a friend.

You also have to keep in mind that most oem fuel injected cars don’t use a map sensor, they use a mass air flow meter. Most after market ECU have the option of just using 4 variables to regulate fuel delivery; Map pressure, rpm, O2 sensor. There are also two other sensor that modify fuel delivery which are, inlet air temp sensor, and coolant temp sensor. By not using a mass air flow meter the car will tolerate air leaks that aren’t directly connected to the manifold better. All the ECU is doing is saying for this map pressure and rpm I will deliver this much fuel.

you can buy a small igniter box from efi source that allows you to use dumb coils while retaining fully sequential firing.

I don’t know if those are logic level coils that can be driven directly by the Haltech. if they aren’t you can go with ford coils and a igniter box and use this http://www.blakemachine.com/performance_parts_by_blake_machine/datsun_coil_on_plug_brackets_6__4_cylinder

I had a chance to get it properly started today before work. apparently my fuel pump contact pin in my AFM was bent out of shape. The new fuel pump is much quieter than my old pump. Thanks for all your input. I’ll upload a picture of the other side of my fuel pump bracket this evening. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

The outlet for fuel filter and the inlet for the pump are connected by a 180 degree -6 AN fitting on the outside of the fuel pump bracket. I also removed the fuel damper since I have read that it doesn't make much of a difference if it is there or not. I'll take a picture of it when I have time after work.

cool will do

Its a 1975 efi 280z. The filter is 100 micron recommend by deachwerks before the pump. I'm going to instal itb's with megasquirt over the winter with larger injectors and aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. I'm not concerned about noise due to the car being strait piped. The last pump burned up due to having corroded terminals so I put new ones on. the old pump would come on and run for a few seconds and them shut off. It could be the fuel pump/injector relay but I don't think that would be the issue.

Thanks I looked at that but it didn't have what I'm looking for.

Hi all, My fuel pump died so I'm replacing it with a new one. I just wanted to have a quick sanity check to make sure I'm not going to burn this one up. My only concern is the new inlet for my fuel pump goes to the filter which is about 2 inches above the outlet of the fuel tank. Please let me know if you notice anything wrong other than I haven't wired up the pump yet.

Well I finally found time and the motivation to put my new parts on and I thought I would post a little review. Review BC racing Coilovers Well I Have my Big Brake kit and BC racing coilovers on the car and got to drive it around for about 40 or 50 miles before my fuel pump ore fuel pump relay when bad. I can say that the standard spring rates (I got the swift spring upgrade) you get from BC are a very nice ride not mushy and not to harsh/bone shattering. I find my favorite ride setting is Is half way between soft and hard. I can't comment on how it compares to stock since my car had lowering springs on it when I bought it. The adjustability is noticeable It can go stiff like a recreational track or road race car car as well as what I would imagine to be significantly softer than stock (80's Cadillac) but again I can't comment on that since I have never felt stock. Review TTT Big Brake Kit with parking brake. The kit comes with everything you need and is petty strait forward to install. The barking feels better than what I had before but I don't drive my car particularly hard and only did one emergency stop. I don't think I have them bleed well enough since the peddle still feels little mushy. It might be that I need a bigger master cylinder, from a 79 280zx, which I have but haven't installed yet. The parking break will keep your car in place on a slight incline but if its a steep hill don't count on it holding the car in place. That might be due to inadequate adjustment of my parking brake linkage.

Hey Mark have you thought about triple DCOE ITBs? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

You can try calling Zspecialties to see if they have a used one that is in good condition. Zspecialties.com Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Ok I was just confused cause I thought you also had the sk/oer manifold and they are made to hook up to the stock one. This might seem like a dumb question (forgive me if it is) but wouldn’t you have more room for your torsion shaft if you moved your throttle linkage to the other side of your carbs? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Do you have an intake manifold that looks like this? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

That price is for both so it’s about what you would pay at any parts store, if you were only buying inner tie rod ends shipping would make them more expensive but if you are already getting other things from T3 then not a big deal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh Christmas Colors [emoji319][emoji3] Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

No Problem, Merry Christmas Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

All of the weld on threaded tubes are notched. I don’t have any pics since I was trying to get it done as fast as I could but if you look at Hazmatt’s build thread he has pictures. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Yep I bought them already and they are on the car. I haven’t driven with them yet because I have to redo my brake lines do to having to vice grip my the flairs nuts for my brake lines to install my big brake kit. Here is a pic of my dirty wheels with the big brakes behind them Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hmm seems like I need to invest in some those long needle nose pliers Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

So I’m almost done putting everything back on the car except I need to change the hand brake cable. Looking under the car it looks like the only way I’ll be able to replace it is if I remove the diff and drive shaft? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Might as well get the kinks worked out on a stockish motor than on a built one. All the wiring is exactly the same. But at that price I would go with an assembled MS3 or MS3X which can do fuel and ignition. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile Correcting a word corrected by auto correct

Thanks Will do Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I’m working on getting the old brake stuff off of the car, and my brake line flair nuts will have to be vice gripped off. I was thinking of going back with Nickel Copper lines. Does anybody have a suggestion on a supplier they like/trust? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk