Hodgimus-maximus

sounds like you inadvertently did a poor man's tune up. http://www.zspecialties.com A poor man’s tune up is necessary on most Z’s. Choose your road carefully to do this. The poor man’s tune up applies to both manual and automatic transmission vehicles. Find a fairly straight road or freeway on-ramp and take off in your Z. If you have an automatic then lock it in first. Mash the gas pedal all the way to the floor, take the engine up to 5500 rpm, then shift into second and mash the gas pedal all the way to the floor again taking it up to 5500 rpm. When the rpm gets up to about 4500 in both gears, take a quick glance in your rear view mirror and look to see if your car is blowing out brown or black exhaust smoke. If it is then you just did a world of good for your engine by cleaning out buildup from driving too slow. The proper way to do this is with a full load on the engine and higher rpms. It is that combination that produces the proper results. After this, you can resume normal driving.

Have you checked your water tep sensor, if that is bad or if the wires are broken then your ecu will always supplying fuel to the engine as if it were cold? Also check your cold start injector, it might be leaking. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looks like a nice deep deep money pit to me if its not used as a parts car

I believe the proper internet lingo for this is woot!

Your fuel pump relay is under your dash above the ecu. Down load a copy of the efi bible it makes trouble shooting the efi system a lot simpler than the factory service manual. It can be found at http://www.4moores.com/280z/files/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf If you drove it that much and then it started acting up then its not the timing. Did you let it sit at all? the gas in your car could have gone bad or there might even be rust in your fuel tank. That is what happened to my car. Ended up having to replace the fuel pump, and the injectors.

Sounds like timing might be off if you are Lucy but it could be plugged/leaky injectors or a bad fuel pump.

I got one of these 125 Amp High Output Alternator: Engine Z - Electrical & Tune Up - 15009-EPEE - Z Specialties Online Store - If we don't have it in stock, we can get it!. I like this one because I didn't have to splice in a diod and I could get rid of the external voltage regulator. Though I did have to bypass my amp meter.

I also forgot but if none of that works you will have to do the ecu test for the throttle position switch to check if that is faulty or not. Basically all the test from page 40 and 41 of the EFI bible

The air flow meter shouldn't be dirty on the inside and even if it was that would affect its function all that much. If you must check it you shuold pop open the cover of the air flow meter circuit and see if the sweep for the potentiometer is worn. But there only way to properly test the Air Flow meter and that is bench testing with a multimeter. If you are working from a factory service Manuel then it sounds a lot more complicated than it is to do the ecu tests. Us the EFI bible and it's as simple as can be http://www.4moores.com/280z/files/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf But if you still want to avoid that then check if timing is off and check if proper fuel pressure, That's 36 psi at idle. I'm also assuming that the spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor have been checked and replaced if needed.

I'm not sure if the windshields are the same between the coup and the 2+2. Though to get it the windsheildyou shuold just put some strong cord in the grove . The whole description of the process is here Needed: 1977 280z rubber seals for entire car - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z

I would not like to solve that equation because the cross sectional area of the depends on the speed of the air flowing threw it. :cross-eye:

It is definitely lean because your fuel pressure should be about 36 psi not 10-20. You should check to see if that fuel pump is bad. You should also check your fuel pressure regulator to make sure it's operating properly. Also check if you have a bunch of rust in your fuel tank that will clog your fuel filter and make the pressure drop.

The 280z AFM is actually vane meter sensor also known as a Volumetric Airflow sensor. It doesn't measure mass or density directly. it's closest mesurment would be drag force which is what actually moves the flap of the air flow meter which is dependent on fluid density. that movement is conveted into voltage drop by the potentiometer connected to the vane which is calabrated to a certain actual mass air flow. It's also good to note that the temp please a decent roll in determining the mass of a fluid. At least that's what Wikipedia says and from my ChemE background it makes sence. But it's a crapy way to measure air speed. Mass flow sensor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia I also found this web too http://www.sdsefi.com/techtheo.htm

You could try datsunstore.com but it will take them a while and it will cost an arm and a leg plus a few organs.

I don't think people are all that much bigger than they were 40 or 50 years ago, anyways American cars from the same time of the s30 were huge in comparison. Most of the size you see now is because of regulation and safety equipment. For example all headlights must be at least so high from the ground.

Hi all, I bought a 1975 280Z in January and haven't felt like working on it till now mostly cause it is in good running order. A few months ago after taking it out and coming back i notice a growing pool of coolant underneath the transmission. So the search began, I read the service manual I searched the forums and low and behold I found nothing that was useful. Well I finally used my camera and took a picture of the mystery hose that is pissing away all of the coolant in my car. Can anyone tell me what it is where its coming from and what it should be connected to? Thanks