newbzee

Looking for the spare tire floor section if you have it. I actually don't need the whole thing, just a couple of good pieces with the bends if that makes any sense.

Not sure if this helps but hopefully you can see on the passenger side how the body line disappears after the gas flap and how the panel bellies out

Hey thanks, I think I see what's going on. The problem I'm having is a previous repair included replacing both left and right rear wheel arches with a repair panel that for some reason the body line was flattened out. Basically it started in the rear of the car and just ended about 6 inches from the wheel arch. In addition, the repair was lapped over not butt welded so it was a bondo mess. I'm trying to get the body line back but I didn't know if it went the distance of the rear quarter and because of the lap joint, I wasn't sure if the rear quarter had an outward taper along the body line or if it was flat like the door.

Well, Maybe someone can help me through explanation. If I put a yard stick on the door body line that goes along the outside door handle, the yard stick sits flat the whole way. If I do the same on the rear quarter, the wheel arch area sit outward. It seems normal to the rest of the panel as I move upward towards the roof section, is it? If so, then it would seem logical that the body line itself would basically fade out over the wheel arch then pick back up on the other side of the wheel arch?

I'm wondering if someone can post a picture of the rear quarter on a 240z so I can see the proper contour of the panel from rear to front along the body line that runs just above the flare. Maybe using a straight edge so I can see how much the panel bows as it goes past the wheel arch. A previous repair lapped a new rear arch panel and it doesn't have the body line so I cut the lap out for butt welding but I'm not sure how straight the panel is suppose to be. Mine currently bows about a 1/2 inch in the middle which seems odd since I've seen some Z's with a trim piece along that body line which I would think would look weird with that much bow. Allen

I'm open to all options but I'm really trying to keep the cost reasonable. If I already had the CAD drawings/Works, I can see how much the shop will charge to machine it. Thanks

Captain, The tubes seem fine, not bent etc......it's really just that one block to the rear that's an issue. If I knew I had a plan B I'd give brute force a try. How did you bend yours. I was thinking about using a C-clamp and trying to press it flat from the middle.

As a new Z owner, I've finally had time to start tinkering with my 73' junker and sure enough ran into the dreaded bad cam oiler bar. The rear tube was just hanging on and ready to fall out at any time. I was able to solder it back in with good results but as mention above, the distribution block is bent so it doesn't seal and I'm assume oil isn't getting to where it needs to be. Since this is a fixer, what are my options? Is there a bar from another year that is available? What could I expect a machine shop to charge to make one from scratch? The block looks cast so I'm assuming trying to bend it back into shape is right out, especially without a back-up plan. Any ideas?

Just dropping a quick first post. I picked up a project 73' 240 a couple months ago and I'm looking forward to getting started. I'm finishing up a 71' 911 so this will be the next in line. Of course it's going to be my wife's car since she had one when younger and always wanted another. Anyway, I plan to get the mechanicals in order first, meaning getting it up and running as best I can before started in the cutting and welding. It has the flat top Hitachi carbs which have already irritated me but I'm not going to throw cash at that problem until I go through the car to be sure there are no deal breakers. Thanks all.......