grannyknot

You have added a lot stuff since the last time I visited your site, looks good.

Thanks guys, great info. @240260280 Philip, are you still selling those fuse blocks to replace the fusible links? Me want.

Yes I'm very happy with the condition of the engine, I opened it up today to adjust the valves, just a couple were out. Some pretty heavy oil varnish going on in there. The cam lobes all look good. Got the key working again to start the engine, one of the 2 black relays up under the dash on the P/S was dead so switched them around. 1977 wiring harness diagram; does anyone make accurate large wiring diagram like 11"x 17" sheet that you can hold in your hands?

Well that took some searching, it was actually @240Ziggy that came up with the idea, I just jumped on the bandwagon, here it is,

You could try a length of thin gauge aircraft cable, stiff enough to be able to push on but flexible enough to go around the corners, it may also clean out some of the accumulated crud.

The only thing that isn't working is that I can't start it with the key, I have to turn the key on and use a remote momentary switch attached to the starter. The 77 wiring diagram is a lot different than the 70-72 Z's I'm use to. I'll sell you the black gold that's in there now and throw in the clutch fluid for free. ?

Found this 280z on kijiji and unlike almost every project car I buy this one has had the rust repaired, body and paint already done (although I'm still going to tear it down). 106,000 miles, previous owner had it for 26 yrs and only drove it 3000 miles. Matching numbers engine and as far as I can tell, no modifications of any kind. I'm thinking I may keep it stock, the engine runs beautifully, pulls 15-16 in.Hg vacuum steady at a warm idle and the compression #s are very consistent. Interior is old and dirty, rubber seals and weatherstripping are shot and need replacing, lots to keep me busy. I know practically nothing about the 280's engine management so will have lots of questions. Engine bay is a disaster, much detailing to be done. Very original looking brake fluid, vintage! A new little sister for the ///MZ,

Very strange, it sort of looks like the wheel has excessive camber, make sure the lower control was properly attached to the crossmember

The Telsla is destroyed, fire truck doesn't look like it has a scratch on it, love it.

Your bumper can be fixed for sure and the platers are the guys to do it but with what chrome shops are charging these days it might be better to hang on the originals but replace them with aftermarket.

That looks like a very good project car at a fantastic price, the kind of find I dream about. Nissan used some pretty tough paint on those door ID plates, wax&grease remover or even WD40 are fairly gentle at removing overspray, they might be able to remove enough to see if it's 72 or 73. Looking forward to your updates. Are you going to keep the wire wheels? You don't see those around much anymore.

I just went out and checked my rear bumper, I have a 1/4" gap at the center between the bumper and back of the car and 1/2" gap just before the bumper bends around the sides of the car. So I guess mine were part of that same lot, never would have noticed it otherwise.

As a source for new bumpers don't forget Futofab, http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=131&Itemid=118#a_frontb New metal, perfect chrome, no holes, all metric fittings and they fit well. I'm very happy with mine, $360 USD a piece.

Well those rails don't carry the weight of the engine as much as they transfer it to the shock towers that are directly inline, the engines weight is taken by the springs and tires for the most part. With a triangulated shock tower brace on the top you have a very ridgid box. Can someone spend too much time under a Z? ?=

It kind of looks like you have the bottom nuts of the end links already tightened down in the LCA? If so, just back those nuts off so you have plenty of slack, fit the top of the end links to the sway bar and tighten equally on all 4 nuts. Does the TTT LCA offer any other holes for the end links?

Is that the brake booster diaphragm ?? Are you thinking at all about making a mold of it?

There are several sub frame pieces that are spot welded under the bottom pan of the car, mostly toward the back but they would not have been added after, they were integrated as the unibody was constructed. Hope that helps.

Hey, that's just like a civilian work site, 9 guys standing around looking at the job that has to be done.? I like the engine load leveler, actually I like it all.

Unfortunately I don't think I have another rusty car in me, the Doc has told me I better start taking care of my lungs from now on and that includes rust, paint, welding smoke... Jim has been very gracious about me jamming out on the deal and I thank him for that. Have to start looking for cars that some other guy has dumped his time and money into for a change.

Well done, you have pulled in some good people to help you get the car back on it's feet. Looking forward to more pics!

Lots of info on that swap over on Hybridz, http://forums.hybridz.org/

Those guys are pretty much it but also grab yourself some 18-20ga sheet steel for the corners at the front of the pan. Like Madkaw said installing the pan from underneath leaving the front seat support in place has always worked well for me. Only cut out and repair one side at a time and install the transmission mount/crossmember just to be sure nothing moves.

Not at all, you have great potential, I think we are witnessing the birth of a serious Z freak Always a good idea to go see as many Z's as you can find so you start to learn where the problems lie and condition of cars from your area, there is also a members map here on the forum, you might be able to find another member close to you that would be willing to go see some cars together, keep you from wasting your money, just a thought.

If a real expert suggested you ditch the excellent stock air filter that brings in cooler denser air and replace with K&N filters that will now bring in hot air and a lot of fine sharp sand then maybe you should look for a more knowledgeable real expert. Yes K&N's are less restrictive but since the stock air filter has no problem supplying air in the first place, all you are really doing paying for something that will sand blast your upper engine. My apologies, K&N sand socks are a pet peeve of mine and I can never understand why they are so popular, good marketing I guess. Oh, and welcome to the forum.

Just make sure you can get it up on a jack so you can check for rust and how the repairs were done, the tranny tunnel looks kind of funky, simple, quickly done, probably not much strength. If the bottom of the car has a thick layer of undercoat that's my cue to walk away, you just know their hiding problems, but the body looks pretty straight so that makes it worth a look. Pull up the carpets and hunt for that rust, the fact that it has been on the market for three months tells you a lot of guys have looked it over and walked away, you need to answer the question, why.